Bulkhead Restoration Options...

[thixon]

Terrys

How do you replace the upper (above the curve in the door post) captive nut plate for the door hinge? Seems to me, that would be impossible (without cutting the door post off, which wouldnt be advisable after you had the thing galvanized). Maybe theres something I'm missing here.

Travis

[leafsprung]

later ones dont have threaded plates they have nutsert style inserts. Thats probably what he is refering to.

[Terrys]

later ones dont have threaded plates they have nutsert style inserts. Thats probably what he is refering to.

That is what I was refering to, the ones which are like those 4 holding the wing on. I had a '62 (back in '72) and the doors would not stay up because I couldn't get the top 2 on both sides to tighten without jumping over. I took a small drill, drilled stright through to center of the nut and out the inner wall. The took a 3/4" hole saw, went back through the inner wall, replaced the nuts, and used 3/4" plug buttons in the holes. It was a very tidy job, but back then then, there weren't concourse wannabe judges ruining your day with all the "that isn't correct" comments.

[thixon]

[quote=Terrys]That is what I was refering to, the ones which are like those 4 holding the wing on.

Gotcha, Sorry did'nt understand at first.

Like you, my idea of "restoring" a rover is making it mechanically sound. The consmetics come second, but each to his own.

My first rover was a right hand drive station wagon that I brought over from England. I bought it from the original owner, and the truck was mostly original. When I got it home, I foolishly drove it to the home of the then local rover guru. He proceeded to pick it apart, telling me that the "safari Station wagon" badge and the four rear jump seats were'nt "correct." Needless to say, I laughed. I learned a lesson though. Most people who talk sh&% don't know sh&*!

Travis
'66 IIa 88"

[thixon]

Ike,

My truck is an earlier style with the plates inside the doorposts. If I decide to hot dip it after the repairs, how do you recommend I deal with the plates fusing to the inside?

By the way, great info on your site about bulkhead restoration!

Travis

[jp-]

Ike,

My truck is an earlier style with the plates inside the doorposts. If I decide to hot dip it after the repairs, how do you recommend I deal with the plates fusing to the inside?

By the way, great info on your site about bulkhead restoration!

Travis

Clippity clop, clippity clop, ignores me...


-Answer posted on page 3.

[thixon]

JP,

I just figured you did'nt know what the heck you were talking about!

Just kidding! Sorry, I did'nt see your post on the previous page.

Good info. In thinking about it, what if the plate fuses to the inside of the cavity, instead of the outside (i.e. back side of the door post). Not sure I'm describing it well, but hopefully you understand my question.

Travis

[jp-]

Drill & tap, then tighten the bolts in using a plate or a hinge to pop it off the inside.

[mfreeman]

Galvanising & Protecting Captive Nut Threads

The local galvanizer we used squirted some high-temp rated silicon sealer in the bolt holes, worked great. As long as the melting point of the silicon is > 800 degrees F. should be fine.

[lrdukdog]

bulkhead

The nuts that are used on the later Rovers are called (I think) "J" nuts. There should be indentations above the hole so these can be flush with the posts.
Jim Wolf
Elvenwood Kennel