whats the cost of galvanizing trim?

[thixon]

I'm doing some pre-planning. Does anyone have any experience with re-galvanizing their trim, windshield frame, etc.? What should I expect to pay (if I can find someone to do it)? Also, I'm assuming (but not completely sure) that I will have to have the old zinc removed somehow. Seems like you'd have to have bare steel to dip for the galvanic reaction to take place. If you have to stip, how have you guys done it?

Thanks,

Travis

[jac04]

When I had mine done, it was a flat fee of $200. This covered up to 500 lbs, IIRC. My trim was painted, so the paint needed to be removed first. They told me that the old galvanizing didn't need to be removed, since they give the parts a caustic cleaning as the first step in their process.

[Leslie]

It could vary from place to place I suppose. I'm aware that a lot of galvanizers have stopped handling auto parts for restoration-types. Rover parts are often a bit dirty or rusty when they get sent in, people don't take the time to properly clean and prepare the pieces, and it can foul the melt.

The local galvanizer I use has a minimum charge of $75, but I've never gone over that, either,even w/ a pile of parts. The pieces need to be clean and it'd help to have the rust off... for example, I had the bulkhead and the breakfast sandblasted.... but for the parts that were previously galvanized, no, it just needs to be clean, not completely stripped. As the parts are dunked into a tank of molten metal, you're not trying to cause a reaction; actually, by coating the steel in zinc, you're minimizing the galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum, since zinc is closer to aluminum on the periodic chart.

[thixon]

Leslie,

Thanks for the chemistry lesson. I guess its obvious that I was'nt a science major!

Seems to be cheaper than I thought it would be. How did galvanizing the bulkhead come out? I'm in the process of welding new pans and door posts back in. I'm considering galvanizing as an option. Did the process distort the bulkhead at all? I might just have that and the trim done, along with the radiator panel instead of painting.

[Leslie]

The trick of it all is, aside from a good cleaning, is to find a galvanizer that you trust. A lot aren't used to dealing w/ vehicle bits, but instead do large guardrails, etc.; I've heard of bits being lost before. And, as I mentioned, a lot of them have stopped dealing w/ Rover folks.

Some of the thinner flat spots, like the replacement footwells, had a bit of a bow on the flats, but not bad at all; and overall, was dead-on on dimensions. I'd not hesitate to do it again at all. On the breakfast, two of the repaired holes, the welded spots have started to rest through the galivanizing. I don't know if it needed resanding or what.

While at it, I also did all of the originially galvanized trim, in addition to the the bulkhead supports, the spring plates, the door sills, the battery/air-cleaner box....

[alaskajosh]

What's the breakfast?

[Leslie]

What's the breakfast?

The radiator support panel. It's an old nickname having to do w/ the grill and headlights resembling a couple of eggs and bacon or some such....

[SeaMiler]

I always thought it referred to the fact that one could quickly pop it off and use it as a grill, i.e., make breakfast on it...even if not, I like the story!

[Leslie]

I always thought it referred to the fact that one could quickly pop it off and use it as a grill, i.e., make breakfast on it...even if not, I like the story!

I'd heard that's why the Australians complained when the SIII came w/ a plastic grill.


Regardless, you shouldn't cook on something that's galvanized, you don't want that much zinc ingested.....