Gener too Alternator

[Alaska]

Has anyone converted their Generator C40 to One wire Delco Alternator......I have a 1969 2A

[TeriAnn]

Has anyone converted their Generator C40 to One wire Delco Alternator......I have a 1969 2A

I did about 15 or 17 years ago. But you probably don't want to follow my example as I was rewiring the my Land Rover at the time making my own harness so the old voltage regulator went away along with the wiring going to it.

IF you have a question about the 2 pin molex plug, red goes to switched 12V. As I remember it is a voltage level sensor. White goes to the generator idiot light. The other side of the idiot light goes to switched 12V.

Then you just run a thick brown wire to an always hot 12V connection.

I had a real pain modifying a bracket for the alternator. Check out the Pangolian alternator mounting bracket kit. Pricy but cheap compaired to the effore I made to mount my alternator. A friend recently installed one & it looks to be a first rate product.

http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/products/alternatorbrackets/alternatorbrackets.html

[badvibes]

Alaska_

I did the conversion with a used alt out of my CJ that I had laying around. Not too difficult. Ran the alt for 8 years and just had to replace it this summer. It was out of my '77 CJ. Guess I got my $ worth. Here's a link that gives you an idea what's involved.

http://www.bayourovers.com/trick12.html

The hardest part was fabbing up the brackets to do the conversion, not real hard, just time consuming. Good luck.

Jeff

[gudjeon]

Howdy Alaska,

Mounting doesn't have to complicated. I too went the route Teriann did when mounting my first some some years ago. For my 2.25 in my ser1, I streamlined it somewhat using fewer parts. Instead of a bottom bracket, I used the existing generator bracket and ground/filed the lower mounting ear of the alt. to bring ot inline with the fan pulley. Then I turned a long bolt to fit through the existing lower hole in this bracket and through the block, just where the gen. was mounted to. A spacer was made to take up the gap at the rear of the lower mounting ear on the alt. The top bracket was the original to the alt. from an 86 Pontiac Acadian with an extra bit welded on it to crank around to a mounting bolt on the pump.
Sorry, I am no help in wiring to fit into a regular harness. I did do the conversion and got rid of the old regulator box so it is possible. Some wires at the box had to be coupled together. My recent rebuild I made my harness from scratch.

[Jim-ME]

I would like to add a second vote for Ike Goss's bracket kit especially for folks like me that don't have fabricating abilities and are fussy about quality and the end result.

[badvibes]

I'm not a photographer obviously...

Here's a bad pic of my conversion. I kept the alt position near stock.

Jeff

[badvibes]

still a bad photographer...

If you look closely you can see a small angled bracket that goes from the alt to the stud on the block that was part of the gen mount. I did this to take all the vibration out of the mounting I put together. Vibration while trail riding broke the 1st brackets I made. Version 2.0 got 1/8" stock and this 3rd mounting point.

Jeff

[badvibes]

Sorry for multiple posts I don't know hoe to get more than 1 pic per post

This last pic just shows how snug the fit is with the alt in the original location. Everything clears and there is enough adjustment to get the belt tight.

Jeff

[Donnie]

Jimco in Raymore , Mi. used to sell a 2 wire harness for the 10si GM alt. I have not bought any thing from them in years . Not sure if they are still around. Ask your local alt shop for help or Google.................Donnie

[J!m]

When using the GM alternator, it is important to have the rear of the body attached firmly (there is a stud or threaded hole for the job) or the off-road vibration will cause the casing halves to come apart and this obviously kills the alternator.

One wire means there is one wire. I use a 95 amp alternator, and had a large wire rated for the amperage (which goes straight to the positive battery terminal). I had the connector fail due to vibration in North Africa. I had to cut the end off, and splice the large wire to two smaller wires, with a loop near the end to soak up the vibration. It has been fine ever since...

You can leave or remove the voltage regulator. The single wire goes to the battery, the wires that used to go to the alternator can be taped off and left if you like. The charge light will be on all the time, however.

I think a diode in the line to feed the bulb would do it to make the light work correctly, I just never bothered, and pulled the bulb out...