Clutch not disengaging - bled but struggling with settings

[HucklebuckRover]

69 series 2a 109 -- I replaced my master/slave/flex line last year. Ever since, I have been unable to nail the proper pedal and slave setting. I've bled it, reverse bled it & It seems like there isn't any air.

I can start it in 1st with the clutch pedal down and it seems to operate to as it will move forward as I release the clutch and apply gas - same for reverse. But if started out of gear it will not go into gear and just grinds. Which leads me to believe the plate isn't stuck.

I've got the green bible and have been trying to set the pedal and slave but am either totally dislexic or something is not right.

Here is a folder of pics of where things are set and a video showing how far the connecting shaft moves - doesn't seem to be moving enough, but I think it's at the full length of the rod throw from the slave.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wuofivst2f2xhvo/AABh4gQnoHeSs5aTmqW6oB4Ta?dl=0

I've read countless forums and am just totally stuck. Any help would be great.

[HucklebuckRover]

The site hole in the bell housing shows this when clutch applied -- https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ziidxlmaj...33.14.mov?dl=0

[charles1943]

Sounds like your disc is stuck to the flywheel....a pretty common problem. I can talk u thru it if u want 2 call.
360.789.5070

[HucklebuckRover]

Sounds like your disc is stuck to the flywheel....a pretty common problem. I can talk u thru it if u want 2 call.
360.789.5070

May have to take you up on it - been driving me nuts

[HucklebuckRover]

Sounds like your disc is stuck to the flywheel....a pretty common problem. I can talk u thru it if u want 2 call.
360.789.5070

Did the pedal movement and clutch connecting arm seem like It was going far enough in the video? I ordered an alignment tool and am probably going to separate the transmission this weekend to see if that's the culprit

[jimrr]

some of the better photos there huckle! it looks like the initial start point is late on the throw?

[HucklebuckRover]

some of the better photos there huckle! it looks like the initial start point is late on the throw?

I pulled the clutch today to check to see if it was frozen - it wasn't. So your advice is probably spot on. Are you saying the rod on the slave is set wrong or the pedal?

[jimrr]

i haven't worked on that model before BUT, it just looks like minimal movement and that the cylinder is too exposed to yes, either a adjustment or perhaps even the rod is the wrong length... ? hard to believe but either way I'd check the extremes and see how far either way by whatever means it could be adjusted ... you might discover something way wrong? keep us posted.
it's detective work!

[HucklebuckRover]

i haven't worked on that model before BUT, it just looks like minimal movement and that the cylinder is too exposed to yes, either a adjustment or perhaps even the rod is the wrong length... ? hard to believe but either way I'd check the extremes and see how far either way by whatever means it could be adjusted ... you might discover something way wrong? keep us posted.
it's detective work!

It worked at some points so I think the rod is right - set it by the book again this morning to test it and it still wasn't working. I'll just have to troubleshoot -

[jimrr]

my condolences but when stuff gets tight it's better to adjust schedults, kick back and really dig in ........... there IS A REASON, . as a professional engineer that often had to diagnose various systems (power, electrical, ac, water .......... )) i learned you can not accurately diagnose without understanding how it works. I know I know ........ I had to study book after book and it would eventually pay off, no one else figured it out, i would but it may take 2 days of intense scrutiny !!!
Good luck and don't let up !

[andrew]

my condolences but when stuff gets tight it's better to adjust schedults, kick back and really dig in ........... there IS A REASON, . as a professional engineer that often had to diagnose various systems (power, electrical, ac, water .......... )) i learned you can not accurately diagnose without understanding how it works. I know I know ........ I had to study book after book and it would eventually pay off, no one else figured it out, i would but it may take 2 days of intense scrutiny !!!
Good luck and don't let up !

This is from another forum, and a post from another user, but perhaps it's of use for you or someone in the future:

"The green Bible gives two methods to adjusting the slave pushrod. The 2 7/8 approach OR you can adjust the push rod so that (when the clutch is fully depressed) there is approximately 1/8 in (3mm) of clearance between the bottom of the piston and the circlip at the bottom of the cylinder.

The latter is a better way in my opinion - with different length push rods, clutch plate thicknesses, etc. It gives you a good starting point for the (remaining) life of the clutch plate and ensures the slave cylinder's piston never bottoms out at either end.

The volume of fluid (travel range) moved in the slave cylinder is determined by the master cylinder. All the push rod does is determine where, in the slave cylinder, that fixed travel range takes place. Ideally the bottom of the slave cylinder's piston (when clutch is fully depressed) is as close as possible to the bottom of the slave cylinder without bottoming out. As the clutch plate wears, the bottom of the slave's piston will get a little higher relative to the circlip."

[roverp480]

A long shot but do you have a 9.5" Diaphragm spring clutch or a 9" coil spung one? I had your symptoms when my Diaphagm Spring mounting in the cover started breaking up, very difficult to see, but it meant when operating the pedal, although it reduced the pressure on the friction plate it didn't totally remove it. This meant on the move it was sufficient, but stationary it dragged too much.

[biffidum]

It could be that the pivot on your clutch fork has worn excessively. Some are plastic and very weak. You would have to look inside through a port or pull the transmission.

[jimrr]

i didn't read thru all this (again) but is the pedal firm? sometimes it's notoriously hard to get the air out. with hydrostatic the pedal will be firm from the top down, a most steady force to be applied, no soft then firm feelings. ?

[jimrr]

i ran my clutch master cylinder low the other day. I filled it but what air in there is slow to work its way out but since it still works ok i'm not crawling in the snow and mud to deal with it occurs to me that if the pipe to the slave has ANY high spot in it, a air bubble in there may not be easy to flush out. the next time i'm under there i'll insure the pipe hasn't been altered (hit by tree limb etc) I also thought woring the clutch while on a steep hill (both directions) could help dislodge air. this may be worth a effort?