custom rear bumpers?

[LaneRover]

Oh, I am sure that you could use bolts - in some fashion to get the same strength.. Just as with enough dental floss you could tie something on with the same strength.

I am not saying that you shouldn't make an awesome rear crossmember/bumper. I think that it would be neat if you did. But know what you are getting yourself into. I also think that just bolting it on is a bad idea. Bolts may offer the same or greater strength - at the moment.

If you find out that the Pangolin bumper in the picture is:
(1) bolted on in place of the RCM
(2) no other piece is welded in to strengthen the chassis
(3) It is not bolted to or around the original RCM that is still in place

Then I would be happy to pay you $100.00. I offered up the bet and if you want to take it then please go ahead, I won't welch.

Brent

[alaskajosh]

haha.. you're a good guy Brent. I'm not much of a betting person. In this case it's just fun to think/talk about. I'll give 'em a call, though, and ask how they did it, what they ran into, etc.

I don't care either way on fastening.. If I can manage to weld a cool bumper I imagine I could weld it to the frame too. Hell, it would probably be easier. I was just thinking of convenience of future modifications, repairs, modularity, whatever.

I appreciate your thoughts!

[LaneRover]

No worries, I am usually not a betting man either but since I was the one who put it out there...

It can be very fascinating figuring out how things are done - or figuring out why some company didn't do it the right way! A friend of mine is doing up a special Land-Rover badge for me and he called me because he wanted to explain how they stamped the badges because it was a process that he had heard of but never actually seen. If you look at the aluminum badge on a series Rover the "Land-Rover" is stamped out but is not crisp, the letters are a bit rounded. If you turn it over the indentations on the back are very crisp and distinct. Basically he said that they only used a one sided die and stamped the pieces into rubber. It would make sense as Rover thought of this as a 'stop-gap' product at first and they wanted to spend as little as possible in tooling.

Definitely let us know what you decide to do in regards with beefing up your RCM. We definitely like to see what everyone is doing.

We could even have a new section and call it:

"One person's overkill is another person's just enough"

Brent

[jp-]

We could even have a new section and call it:

"One person's overkill is another person's just enough"

Brent

I like that!

But seriously, Alaska, the RCM really isn't the weakest part of the frame, to me it's the front frame horns.

If you're that concerned about it, maybe you should just have a new frame made up out of 3/16" or 1/4" steel instead of the standard 1/8". It has been done. Guy in Hawaii?? I think.

Then you'd have no need for a stronger RCM. It wouldn't give no matter what.

[Donnie]

If you R seeking protection in case that U get rear-ended because UR vehicle is slow. Or you may be thinking about pulling someone with a Rope/chain : engineering data suggests bolting to the frame, not welding. RE, the bolts will sheer off if an impact should occur, rather than causeing extensive damage to the frame which if welded is now an integral part of the structure..Grade 2 bolts are softest and will provide a fair amt of sheer resistance, although not rec. for auto. use..5 is stronger, and grade 8 is tough, may as well weld if using grade 8..just my 2 cents worth....Donnie

[jp-]

...which if welded is now an integral part of the structure...

Integral is good. I like integral.

It makes me sleep better at night.