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All of my gears are frozen up. I can barely get it into 2nd and when I do it "clunks" into 2nd, shakes, and then conks out on me. I was driving it around all day yesterday without issue.
Anyone have any ideas?
Anyone have any ideas?
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'69 Series IIA 88 -
Are you sure that your clutch didn't go out? How does your clutch pedal feel? Soft and springy? Hard as a rock? Both would be signs of a clutch related issue.61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup
-I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board. -
Enough oil?Comment
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O.k. so I checked it agian... The Clutch feels soft and springy and stays in gear even when the clutch is in!!! So if I'm in first gear and I have the clutch in an turn it over it wants to lunge forward...Clutch problem??? I tried looking underneath and I can't figure out how to get to it.(Should I come at it from above or below)
I have a green bible on order b/c I am a "4" a mechanical scale of 1-10. Any idea what I should do to narrow down the problem further?'69 Series IIA 88Comment
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O.k. so I checked it agian... The Clutch feels soft and springy and stays in gear even when the clutch is in!!! So if I'm in first gear and I have the clutch in an turn it over it wants to lunge forward...Clutch problem??? I tried looking underneath and I can't figure out how to get to it.(Should I come at it from above or below)
I have a green bible on order b/c I am a "4" a mechanical scale of 1-10. Any idea what I should do to narrow down the problem further?'69 Series IIA 88Comment
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That signifies that the clutch is not disengaging properly; that's why the car wants to lunge forward.Originally posted by Campbell
First off, look for the easy fix; after all, it worked yesterday. Check the level of your clutch fluid in the resevoir off the firewall. Is it full? If it's down in level, look around the clutch pedal inside the car. If there's fluid on the floor, then the master cylinder is leaking. Also, dip out a bit of the fluid. If it's gray in color at all, you have an internal leak in the cylinder and it will need replacement or rebuilding.
What happens when you pump the clutch a few times? Does it seem to work any better? Does the rpm matter; in other words, if it's barely idleing, does it seem to work better than if the rpm are high?
On a Series II-A, the slave cylinder is mounted inside the two footwells. There's a circular rubber plug on the right hand side of the passenger compartment, forward of the transmission tunnel and towards the footwell. Remove the big plug and you can see the slave cylinder. At the top of the cylinder you'll feel a rubber hose that runs from there up to the master cylinder. If you can feel fluid on the hose, you have a leak in the hose. If you see fluid at the bottom of the cylinder, you need to replace the slave cylinder. This is a common cure, and not a difficult one to enact. You need 1/2 wrenches or 1/2 socket, and a 7/16 wrench to complete the bleeding once you've replaced the cylinder.
Good luck - it's likely to be something relatively simple.
JeffJeff Aronson
Vinalhaven, ME 04863
'66 Series II-A SW 88"
'66 Series II-A HT 88"
'80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
'80 Triumph Spitfire
'66 Corvair Monza Coupe
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