what gauge sheet metal for bulkhead?

[thixon]

Anyone know what gauge was used to construct the bulkheads? I need to buy some stock for my upcoming repair, but won't be near the truck for a week (out of town) for measurement. I can get some scrap sheet metal from a friend I'm visiting, but don't want to bring back more than I really need.

Thanks,

Travis
'66 IIa 88"

[jp-]

I have always used 1/16" steel to do all my bulkhead repairs.

[thixon]

JP,

How do you like the TR4? I've been looking for a decent 6 for cheap, but everytime I see a 4 it gets me thinking.

[jp-]

I think it will be a beautiful car when I get it running. Actually, it looks great just sitting in my garage!

I got it from a friend of my uncle. It had been sitting 17 years. The motor was (is) locked solid. I didn't know that at the time. The car was undercover and has very little rust.

[daveb]

that works. but the original metal is 18 or 19 gauge.

a bit easier to work with...

frames are 14 and 10 mostly.

there's one in VA where the bulkhead is all 1/4"...

I have always used 1/16" steel to do all my bulkhead repairs.

[rovertek]

18 ga is my preference, if you want a nice job try the galvinized toe box's from RN and butt weld them in.....

[Enigma]

Simce Christmas is coming, what is the best kind of welder for such bulkhead repairs? and $$$

[jp-]

I use a Miller 120V MIG welder. I have had it for about six years. It cost $900 and came with two 4 hour tanks (one 75/25 for steel, and one 100% Argon for aluminum and stainless). The regulator was included, as well as the rolling cart, and one 2lb roll of .023" steel. It has been one of the best investments that I have ever made. I regularly weld stainless and plain steel. I have even had excellent success on welding cast iron and have gotten somewhat of a reputation for it. After using .023", .030", .045" wire, I have come to the conclusion that .030" is best for 95% of all jobs. I can weld down to .040" material and up to .1875" material in one pass. 1/4" material can be welded in two passes or in one pass by undercutting (chamfering) the area to be welded.

[jp-]

Three notes,

A good ground is essential for a good weld. I have seen people adjust and adjust their welder trying to get the weld right, when the problem was a bad ground connection. Keep your ground electrode clean, and make sure you are clamped onto SHINY clean metal.

Galvanized material is a P.I.T.A. to weld. Plus it puts off bad fumes (i.e. toxic). If I can, I avoid welding on it at all times. You have to grind off the zinc before you weld or turn the heat up much higher on the welder.

Welding onto rust also sucks. Do yourself a favor and cut out all the rust, and make sure that the base metal is solid and shiny as well before welding. The secret to a good weld is to start and end the weld on shiny metal.

[yank]

Do you use special wire for aluminum?

[jp-]

MIG welding with aluminum is not for the novice welder, but it can be done. I made my own gas tank for the 109" out of .125" aluminum. .030" wire (get .035" if you can) is the thinnest that can be run on a MIG without using a spool gun. Without a spool gun (pulls the wire, rather than pushes it), the wire will tend to "birdnest" or bend up into coils because it is not strong enough to push its way down the feed line. The only way it can be done is to keep the feed line almost perfectly strait when welding aluminum. You can't fold the feed line any which way and expect it to feed like it does with steel, because it won't. Also, the aluminum tests the limits of the MIG because the feed setting has to be almost to 10, while the heat setting (voltage) is only at a 3 or so.

TIG welding is by far the best choice for aluminum.