Dave 1550, nice galvanized trin. Who did it for you?
1st Post - A few questions...
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I was wondering how long it was going to take for someone to pick up on the fact that this was a coiler. Not only a coiler, but an AWD coiler, being LT230, LT77.
Did you know that you have one of the rarest accessories that came with Land Rovers. I have had a few of those cute little two pin plugs, that is attached to your nice vintage spotlamp. I did a 'Name That Part on LRO a few years ago, and NO One had seen one. You should have heard some of the dumb guesses.
How is it that we all tend to think alike? I, too have an '86 911 (Targa), a 1275 Mini CooperS (1974) a '53 MG-TD, a '61 MK2 Jag, 6 land rovers ,and 5 pre '60 British bikes. I lusted after a Moto Guzzi ISDT back in the '60s. They imported 100 to the US. I found one, and it was bought new by a guy in Anchorge, who put it in his basement after riding it 2 weeks, then proceded to die. It looks like something out of a well sealed time capsuleComment
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Originally posted by TerrysI was wondering how long it was going to take for someone to pick up on the fact that this was a coiler. Not only a coiler, but an AWD coiler, being LT230, LT77.
Did you know that you have one of the rarest accessories that came with Land Rovers. I have had a few of those cute little two pin plugs, that is attached to your nice vintage spotlamp. I did a 'Name That Part on LRO a few years ago, and NO One had seen one. You should have heard some of the dumb guesses.
How is it that we all tend to think alike? I, too have an '86 911 (Targa), a 1275 Mini CooperS (1974) a '53 MG-TD, a '61 MK2 Jag, 6 land rovers ,and 5 pre '60 British bikes. I lusted after a Moto Guzzi ISDT back in the '60s. They imported 100 to the US. I found one, and it was bought new by a guy in Anchorge, who put it in his basement after riding it 2 weeks, then proceded to die. It looks like something out of a well sealed time capsule
My other vehicle I've had for 8 years...4 of which was a daily driver...
1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|Comment
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Nice Rover. Mine had a tweaked rear cross member like yours. I rented a hand pump operated portapower and pushed it back out by putting one end on the tire and the other end on the inside of the rear cross member as far out as possible. It worked slick because it moved back so slowly that I didn't even crack the galvanizing on the frame. I did have to pump the tire up to 100 psi because on the first attempt I almost poped the tire off the rim. Once the frame is back, a block of wood and a 5 lb hand sledge plus patience and you'll be amazed at how much of the body you can straighted.
JimComment
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Originally posted by Jim-MENice Rover. Mine had a tweaked rear cross member like yours. I rented a hand pump operated portapower and pushed it back out by putting one end on the tire and the other end on the inside of the rear cross member as far out as possible. It worked slick because it moved back so slowly that I didn't even crack the galvanizing on the frame. I did have to pump the tire up to 100 psi because on the first attempt I almost poped the tire off the rim. Once the frame is back, a block of wood and a 5 lb hand sledge plus patience and you'll be amazed at how much of the body you can straighted.
Jim1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|Comment
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My dad crinkled the back end of a Series III I have and I just used a hydraulic pump jack to re-bend the rear quarter panel. Didn't have to re-do the rear crossmember because that looked like it came off the back of a tugboat. I do agree with everyone else here, just slowly bend the rear crossmember back in place. Even if you do crack the Galvanizing a little bit it is still preferable to trying to replace it. And if you then bend the rear quarter panel back into something resembling its original shape you can drive it like that and then wait for a sale on rear quarter panels. The very rear piece is easily made out of aluminum as it is flat.
Best of luck! It looks like you have a great Rover there!
Brent
PS - those hydraulic pumpjacks don't completely like working sideways. If you try this method and it doesn't seem to be working then just rotate the jack until you get to a position that it works in - which will of course give you no room to pump the jack and will thus take 3 times longer than you thought.
Also, do you know about the 'work hardening' properties of aluminum and how to get rid of them?1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
1965 109 SW - nearly running well
1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
1969 109 P-UP
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2Comment
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Originally posted by LaneRoverMy dad crinkled the back end of a Series III I have and I just used a hydraulic pump jack to re-bend the rear quarter panel. Didn't have to re-do the rear crossmember because that looked like it came off the back of a tugboat. I do agree with everyone else here, just slowly bend the rear crossmember back in place. Even if you do crack the Galvanizing a little bit it is still preferable to trying to replace it. And if you then bend the rear quarter panel back into something resembling its original shape you can drive it like that and then wait for a sale on rear quarter panels. The very rear piece is easily made out of aluminum as it is flat.
Best of luck! It looks like you have a great Rover there!
Brent
PS - those hydraulic pumpjacks don't completely like working sideways. If you try this method and it doesn't seem to be working then just rotate the jack until you get to a position that it works in - which will of course give you no room to pump the jack and will thus take 3 times longer than you thought.
Also, do you know about the 'work hardening' properties of aluminum and how to get rid of them?
I'm not sure that I am familiar with "Work hardening" properties of aluminum.1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|Comment
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Originally posted by NC RoverHah. Yeah I assumed it was quite rare. Pleased to say the spotlight works as good now as it did years ago. I feel very privledged. Its defintly an AWD coiler. Bout to replace the current D90 springs with a brand new set of Old Man Emu coils that the previous owner gave me. Should put it at 2.5" lift rather than the current 2 inches. I will always be a fan of older vintage vehicles. You can never get enough of them!
My other vehicle I've had for 8 years...4 of which was a daily driver...
I need some eye bleach. That was awful.61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup
-I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.Comment
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Originally posted by jp-NC,
I need some eye bleach. That was awful.
Just bustin your balls mate, I drove a hand-me-down buick regal for years.
TravisTravis
'66 IIa 88Comment
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Originally posted by jp-NC,
I need some eye bleach. That was awful.
Whats funny is that I've had more offers to sell the impala than any other car. Why I don't know. Its currently getting restored. Just had the interior done and about to have it painted. Once thats done, I'm selling it. I already have 3 people who want to buy it!1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|Comment
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Oh wow, talk about memories.....
My parents had a red '68 Impala 2-door, black vinyl top, that was the car I remember being in as a little kid....
Originally posted by NC Rover
My other vehicle I've had for 8 years...4 of which was a daily driver...
-L
'72 SIII SW 88"
'60 SII 88" RHDComment
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Originally posted by NC RoverThanks for the info brent. I will definitly take these methods in mind.
I'm not sure that I am familiar with "Work hardening" properties of aluminum.
When bending and banging away on Aluminum it starts to harden and gets brittle. Once this happens you have to re-anneal the aluminum or you will start cracking it. Luckily the process is pretty easy. What I have always heard is to rub some wax (maybe soap would work too) on the painted side of the part you are working on. Then using a propane torch lightly heat the unpainted side of the aluminum. Once the wax has melted the aluminum is re-annealed and can be worked for a while before it starts to harden again.
If you go in too heavy with the torch then you can burn through the aluminum.
Brent1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
1965 109 SW - nearly running well
1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
1969 109 P-UP
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2Comment
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