Rear Main Seal Replacement Question - Series 2A

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  • Vin
    Low Range
    • Feb 2025
    • 4

    Rear Main Seal Replacement Question - Series 2A

    I am looking at buying a Series 2A that has a leaking rear main seal. Does this have to be an engine out ordeal or can the area be properly accessed by removing transmission and working from the underside/inside of the vehicle? Any other tips and tricks are also welcomed. Thank you!
  • charles1943
    1st Gear
    • Jan 2021
    • 121

    #2
    U must remove either engine or gearbox but can b done lying under truck BUT B VERY careful to get the seal seated CORRECTLY or U can ruin the crankshaft !!!!!

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    • jimrr
      4th Gear
      • Dec 2010
      • 451

      #3
      I've read plenty about it being difficult, the last time i did it i had the engine on a stand. My S2a has a serious leak and maybe some shaft damage as well and a shaft leaking on my 540 bmw but i'm hoping to use some good lubricant and slide a new one in place around the crank,even if i have to loosen the crank a ways? . it can certainly be done with a lot of engines but i haven't been in a s3/2 engine for a while. I'm hoping to do that as well as replace some rod and crank inserts. interestingly enough, I do recall there was some challenge to doing my last one but I can't remember. hopefully someone here will address this issue?

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      • charles1943
        1st Gear
        • Jan 2021
        • 121

        #4
        A bit more on your seal replacement.....I recommend HIGHLY that U do this job VERY carefully as there R many possibilities for failure. #1 B sure 2 get the seal 542.492 COMPETELY seated in the seal halves 542.494. The top part of the seal is very hard 2 see. #2 Then U got to get the garter spring in with the ends properly connected AND seated completely in the seal groove. #3 B sure the ends and faces of of your seal halves 542.494 are soft and pliable or the seal "won't". #4. Now U got to get the T seals 537.279 fitted w/o breaking them. Drawings 4 making the guides for these R shown in the better manuals. B sure 2 leave the ends of the T seals protruding ~ 3/16" proud of the block face. #5 Then 4 Cut the t seal ends and build a cone of high-heat silicone around the end of each T seal. #6 Then replace the oil pan B4 the silicone sets up. #7 I recommend test running the engine for ~10 minutes 2 B sure the seal doesn't leak. If U have a SIII I strongly recommend replacing the front seal on the gearbox unless it's fresh. I recommend doing this work without ANY distractions!! This job gives the opportunity to check 4 possible wear on the LUCAS starter motor, the flywheel bush 8566L, the flywheel face and all clutch components. Chinese parts are often not up to the task!!! Good luck. Dare Britannia, Ltd.

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