Engine Oil Leak

[Jim-ME]

I know it's hard to believe but I have an oil leak problem. Oil is leaking from the front of the engine and appears to be coming from behind the pulley on the bottom of the engine just above the oil pan. Could someone tell me which seals I should order. Thanks,
Jim

[thixon]

Sounds like your front seal has had it, but a photo would be nice just to be sure. If it is the front seal, you'll need the seal, and timing cover gasket.

[Terrys]

I agree. It does sound like your front crank seal, and if it has never been changed, there will be a steel "shield" with about 8 push-twist rivets holding it on. If it has been changed, and was done the correct way, the shield will be help on with small screws, and changing it again is easy, by just unscrewing the shield, plucking out the old seal, and replacing it all in reverse order.
If, on the otherhand, and Murphys law says this is how it's gonna play out, it is original, the best and proper way is to remove the front cover, and drill out the push-twist pins. They can't be drilled out with the cover in place.
Be carefull when you replace the front pulley as the woodruff key can easily slide out the back of the grove and into the crankcase.
Some might disagree, but I think it's a more tedious job than replacing the clutch MC in a LHD truck.

[Jim-ME]

I was afraid that, that is what it was. Just got off the phone with RN and ordered the parts. Anyone know of a source that pictorally shows the mod changing over to screws from the rivets?
Jim

[singingcamel]

I'd rather change the front crank seal than a clutch.
A word of caution when dealing with the front cover.watch closely where all you bolts come from some are longer than others, some shorter.
Also use anti seize when putting it back together, DO NOT overtighten them or you will strip them.
When you start to dismantle you will see why you want to use anti sieze when rebolting.they can be real stinkers when dismantling.. Don't forget a new gasket as well as that little hose that that goes to the thermostat housing from the water pump, its a good time to change that,i think they call it a intermediate hose?
good luck
www.singingcamel.com

[Jim-ME]

Thanks Marc!
Jim

[mfreeman]

Be sure to look a the condition of the pulley shaft where the old seal rides. In many cases the shaft has become worn where the seal rides. On worn pulley shafts that portion of the shaft is then a smaller diameter which is enough to allow oil to escape even with an new seal. Proper fix then is to either sleeve or weld and machine the shaft to proper diameter or fit a double-lip seal so at least one lip will hit the correct diameter portion of the shaft. The single lip seal is part # 18558 (Chicago Rawhide) about $4 from Motion Industires, I don't have the part # for the double lip seal.

[ajones]

Jim
when I replaced mine I had a "series restoration manual" from the UK that was a color glossy job with pics of pulling a rover apart, but it had a good break down of the job and tapping the timing chain cover. I will see if I can find it and scan the relevant pages. I also dropped the oil pan, woodruff key went swimming, but gave me a good oportunity to clean the gunk out of it. I also had to replace my pulley b/c the shaft was groved. also be gentle with the timing chain cover as it is cast and not too robust.

[NC Rover]

DO NOT overtighten them or you will strip them.
www.singingcamel.com

Any idea what the torque specs are on those bolts?

[Moose]

It wouldn't hurt to order an oil pan gasket too. The front of the sump seals on up against the bottom of the timing cover and removing the cover can tear the sump gasket. Ask me how I know.

And yes, while you have the cover off, modifly it by drilling out the rivits and tapping in screws, as others have advised. I just happen to have mine off so here is a pix of front seal. Sorry it hasn't been cleaned up yet.

Brett

[Jim-ME]

Well, I'm taking the day off to finally replace the front seal. Do I absolutely have to remove the radiator? I hope not because the oill cooler will have to come out as well.
Jim

[Tim Smith]

Well, I'm taking the day off to finally replace the front seal. Do I absolutely have to remove the radiator? I hope not because the oill cooler will have to come out as well.
Jim

Not sure why you need to pull the radiator. If you have long enough extensions, you could conceivably pull the front nut without getting under the truck.

Once the front pulley is off, you should have plenty of room for the little bolts.

Good luck!

[Jim-ME]

Job done and I didn't even have to pull the front cover. I removed the starter dog with an impact wrench and a 42mm socket. After checking the rivets to make sure they were steel, I drilled them just deep enough to hit the mudshield. I used a punch to knock the rivets in and caught every one of them with one of those extendable pencil sized magnets. I put the new seal in and used self tapping screws coated with Hylomar to put the mudshield on and low and behold no leak. I did have to have a machine shop polish the pulley where the seal rides as speedi sleves weren't locally available in the size I needed; so I may have problems later on. Time will tell. Also had the Rover on a lift which made it easier to do. Well one leak down dozens more to go.
Jim