Tub rebuilding

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  • Jim-ME
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1379

    Tub rebuilding

    I am replacing my tub which although it still needs work it isn't as bad as the old one. I need to put in a new floor, replace the tub supports and the rear pannels on either side of the tail gate plus a few extra holes need to be patched on the wheel wells. Anyone out there done it who can shed some light on what I am up against? Boy this is one of those many days I wished I hadn't pissed off Mike Smith at ECR. I will deeply regret that for many years to come. Wish I could make ammends somehow.
    Jim
  • singingcamel
    4th Gear
    • Oct 2006
    • 398

    #2
    jim,
    what year is your rover? i may have a tub for you..marc
    www.singingcamel.com

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    • Leslie
      5th Gear
      • Oct 2006
      • 613

      #3
      Originally posted by Jim-ME
      I am replacing my tub which although it still needs work it isn't as bad as the old one. I need to put in a new floor, replace the tub supports and the rear pannels on either side of the tail gate plus a few extra holes need to be patched on the wheel wells. Anyone out there done it who can shed some light on what I am up against?

      I've done bits and pieces of.... the tub supports are pretty straight-forward, as is the floor. Here's what I did for the rear of the tub...

      With the cappings off: Take a piece of sheet aluminum, measure it to match the height of the rear of the tub (don't remember dimensions off the top of my head). For the width, in addition to the full width along the bottom of the tub from the outer edge to the opening of the door/tailgate area, I added ~1/4" extra in width. So, at that point, you have a pair of rectangles that, if you lined them up w/ the bottom of the tub and the outer edges, they match the tub in height, and extend in a little.

      I then bent that 1/4" in on a sheet-brake, so that it would catch on the inside edge of the tub; thus, most of the width will then match, except for up where the curved waist of the tub side is. Mark that curve w/ a sharpie, then use a nibbler to cut the panel down. I then used body glue to glue the panels into place. Once you put paint and put the cappings back on, and the lights, the land-rover plate, the tag light, etc., back on, no one can tell that there's an extra layer there.



      Originally posted by Jim-ME
      Boy this is one of those many days I wished I hadn't pissed off Mike Smith at ECR. I will deeply regret that for many years to come. Wish I could make ammends somehow. Jim
      Call him up and talk to him.... time softens the edges, and, I've always found him to be a good guy... who knows, maybe it'll go well... good luck!
      -L

      '72 SIII SW 88"
      '60 SII 88" RHD

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      • leafsprung
        Overdrive
        • Nov 2006
        • 1008

        #4
        tub

        This is really an easy project, just time consuming. There are a lot of folks out there that have done this and would be happy to help you out. There are some very skilled hobbyists in the rover community that I would consider better than the self proclaimed experts anyway. Dont sweat it. Feel free to email me or just post up on the guns and rovers board.

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