Broken Down

[ajones]

Correct me if I am wrong but pressure could not be building in that cylinder b/c the valves are not closing fully, i.e. valve train issues rather than a broken piston or connecting rod, therefore during compression stroke air is just pushed out through said open valve rather than being compressed. Thus, I would concur with the others: pull valve cover and take a look. Then, if you really think you have a bottom end problem drop the oil pan and look in it (metal bits) and at that cylinder.

[PH4]

I find my mechanic very trustworthy in his dealings and have used him for years. He is also very fair in his charges. He has worked on a good many Rover engines. Although he is no expert on Rover engines he has been pretty good in the past. I have found him to be the exception to the norm.

I by no means want to pay for a new engine but am considering fact that I have two Series whether it would be worth going ahead and getting a new one. Unfortunately, my experience also tells me that as soon as I put a strong healthy engine in it will show the probably weak condition of transmission.

[Daurie]

Sounds like you've found a keeper mechanic. If the engine is indeed in the condition he describes then a short block may be the way to go depending on the cost to rebuild. Of course this is assuming the head is fine.

[Tim Smith]

I hope your mechanic is good like you say. Remember that you're not making/keeping a friendship with your mechanic but rather conducting business with him. If you confuse that then you might not end up satisfied with the business or the friendship (if there is one).

I have a funny feeling that he is trying to leave you with a bunch of questions and not trying to definitively find the answer for you. I mean, there are only 3 nuts holding the valve cover on. Why didn't he just take a quick look and then you would know if it were the top end or the bottom??? Breaking the seal maybe? But it was a new head gasket so...

Maybe I'm just not trusting of mechanics. I've been swindled in the past and I'd like to think I know a thing or two even if I'm not an expert.

Any way, back on topic, pop the valve cover off, and check that cylinder (and all of them too in case he had a bad reading). It's my guess that you are talking about a 50/50 chance that it's the top end or the bottom end.

If you are in the southern CT area, then PM me. It would make me feel better to know that a fellow series owner isn't getting ripped off!

Although, if your mechanic is anything like the ones I've experienced, he won't let me on his property with my tool bag in hand.

Good luck and let us know how this goes.

[Tim Smith]

I by no means want to pay for a new engine but am considering fact that I have two Series whether it would be worth going ahead and getting a new one. Unfortunately, my experience also tells me that as soon as I put a strong healthy engine in it will show the probably weak condition of transmission.

Sorry to double post folks... so as for the condition of your transmission, well lets tackle one problem at a time.

Hmm...<grinding gears>... <smoke - puff>.. <grind gears some-more>

Although, if you have a number of issues ailing your truck then it would be wise to use this as a stand back moment. You know, stand back and make a complete list of everything it needs. Gather your costs together and then decide what is necessary for you to have the reliable truck you are looking for.

I'd hate to recommend any one to drop their series due to something like this but in the same light, it would equally be too bad if you never get the chance to really enjoy the truck because "there is always something wrong with it". Best not to walk into this eyes wide shut.

By taking a full head-on look at everything the truck needs and getting it dealt with correctly the first time is well worth it. If you can't work on it your self then your costs may go way up. So lets be honest here.

Lets see. If you need a short block rebuild, well that might be expensive. Few grand maybe, I don't know? A transmission, well you're probably talking a few grand more (still guessing here). A radiator, well you've already found an honest price for a new one. What else is there?

Seriously, add it all up and decide for yourself if you want to do the whole kitandkaboodle or if she'll hold together after the motor is fixed.

After saying all that, let me also add that my series trucks have been far cheaper to run than everything else I've owned (other than my first Honda which I still only owned about 1 1/2 years). Seriously, my series trucks have lasted me longer than anything else I've owned hands down but the fact that I can do my own maintenance is a huge help. It's also a lot more satisfying to do my own work too.

If I did have to pay for the labor of the maintenance items and the occasional broken axle then it might be another story.

So the moral of the story is, get it done right. All of it. Then do the maintenance yourself and have a great time with your truck.

Kind regards,
Tim

[PH4]

Tim, thanks for the comments. My other Series is a 1962 which I have had for over ten years now with little to no problems, however, it was rebuilt while I was in Switzerland by a pretty unique shop that only restores Series and kits out 110s for expedition(they really knew what they were doing) so I have probably been spoiled by its reliability. The 1972 with the problem(s) that seem to mount I bought as more of a daily driver and to use for 4-6 hour round trips. I am definitely in it for the long haul but want to make sure I do not keep patching a problem that will have to be replaced eventually. Scary thing is I was actually convincing my wife the need for a Series 1 on ebay that was up for bid the night before the break down.

[Tim Smith]

Tim, thanks for the comments. My other Series is a 1962 which I have had for over ten years now with little to no problems, however, it was rebuilt while I was in Switzerland by a pretty unique shop that only restores Series and kits out 110s for expedition(they really knew what they were doing) so I have probably been spoiled by its reliability. The 1972 with the problem(s) that seem to mount I bought as more of a daily driver and to use for 4-6 hour round trips. I am definitely in it for the long haul but want to make sure I do not keep patching a problem that will have to be replaced eventually. Scary thing is I was actually convincing my wife the need for a Series 1 on ebay that was up for bid the night before the break down.

Great! So you know what I mean about the reliability and longevity of a good series truck.

I'm glad now!!!

Thanks,
Tim

[PH4]

Little more information. Apparantly cylinder #3 threw a rod. No idea why.

[Tim Smith]

Little more information. Apparantly cylinder #3 threw a rod. No idea why.

Wow, that stinks! I'm surprised there wasn't a little more warning leading up to that.

Anyone know if that can be done with the motor in-situ? Never had to replace a rod myself and kind of curious about it...

Good luck with it and let us know how it all turns out. Pictures too if possible.

[PH4]

The only warning I know of was knocking in fourth gear at 50mph when climbing grade month before but not enough to warrant concern (maybe).

I must confess that when it threw the rod I had earbuds in listening to Ipod going 60mph on flat surface, however, I really do not think if I had them out there would have been any indication of what was about to happen.

Is there some way oil could have been blocked from getting to that cylinder?

[Tim Smith]

Is there some way oil could have been blocked from getting to that cylinder?

Sure, anything is possible. When you get the parts out, you'll want to take a good look at them real close. I imagine you'll be able to find out if it was over heated, under tightened or overstressed once you get in there. Look for any clogs in the oil passages too when you are in there.

Man, I'm kind of surprised the rod just went like that.

Good luck!

[Saxondog]

I'd go ahead and rebuild the whole engine at this point. If you have another vehicle to use for awhile. At a minimum you have trashed the #3 rod and the crankshaft will have to be reground. Never tore down a rover engine but done many others, I'll eat my shorts if you can get that crank out with the engine still in. On any manual trans I ever saw, the input shaft protrudes into the end of the crank. Which means either the trans or engine must be removed, or at least separated from each other. Since the engine is your problem, I'd take it out. Getting an engine out is not as bad some may think. Once you have it out and tear it down you will understand completely how it works. Once you get the machine shop work done just follow the reaasembly instructions in the manual. The hardest part of a rebuild is getting the trans mated back to the engine and getting it started the first time. Give it whirl!!

[PH4]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Since regardless of what I do the current engine is going to have to be removed I have had it towed home and plan on removing/diagnosing the engine myself and using this as a way to better my Series knowledge and skills.

[PH4]

Any reccomendations regarding removing engine and putting in position to rebuild. I see in Green Bible they have a specific tool for this but doubt I can find one. I think I will use my cumberlong but how do you set in a position to do the overhaul? Fairly remedial question but I do not have a garage so I need to plan accordingly.

[Daurie]

Most chain auto parts stores or tool houses will have a reasonably priced engine stand around. Once you get it (engine) out transfer it straight to that and wheel it where you plan to work. It helps to have an assortment of long bolts and washers on hand that will thread into the rear of the block where the trans bellhousing mated up.