valve adjustment guide

[Bostonian1976]

I know somewhere out there on the internet I saw a great 'how to' for Rover valve adjustment. It was one guy's site and all of the 'tips and tricks' were listed on the left side. Can't find it now and want to adjust my calves today. Does anyone know what it is? Thanks

[greenmeanie]

Rover valve adjustment short:

• The valves can be adjusted hot or cold. Cold is better for avoiding burning your pinkies.
• Remove the rocker cover by removing the three acorn nuts. It also helps to remove the plugs to minimize engine resistance. If you are big and burly you can do it with plugs in place.
• Disconnect the battery so there are no inadvertant starts.
• Tools: 1/2" or 13mm spanner, flat blade screwdriver, .010" feeler gauge and a starting handle or socket for the crank end nut.
• Remember the rule of nines. For each valve you operate on you will observe the other valve number that adds up to nine. i.e. 1&8, 2&7 etc.
• Turn over the engine with the starting handle until you see the opposing valve (#8 for adjusting #1 etc.) open and then stop before closing i.e. rocking. The valve you want to adjust is now on the heal of the cam.
• Slacken off the 1/2" lock nut. Place the feeler gauge in the gap between the rocker pad and the valve stem. Use the flat blade screw driver to adjust the valve clearance. The feeler gauge should slide though the gap with a little resistance for the correct gap. If you have to force the gauge into the gap and pull hard to get it out you are overtightening. Once you have the gap set tighten the lock nut while using the screwdriver to antirotate.
• Work your way along the head. THere is a specific order that allows you to do this with a minimum number of turns based on firing order. I prefer to start at one end and work to the other as it makes things easier to keep tabs on in my mind.
• With valves adjusted reinstall the valve cover, plugs and connect the battery. Run the engine until warm and then listen to the valve train. It should sound like a good quality sewing machine i.e a little noise but no individuall valve making an outstanding tick.
• If you hear excess noise a large screwdriver or wooden dowel against the rocker cover will usually let you pin piont the offending valve and allow you to go back in and readjust.

That's about it really. With a bit of practice it's a very quick and easy job.

Cheers
Gregor

[yorker]

http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.tuning_2.25l.html

This is a brief "how to" guide for tuning your 2.25 petrol Land Rover. I hope it is not to vague.
It is best to tune an engine when warm. Try to combine the tune-up with an oil change. After a lot of winter starts with the cold start (choke) on, a certain amount of gasoline blows by the piston rings into the crankcase, affecting the oil pressure, lubrication and the way the engine runs in general.

So warm it up, change the oil, and then start with the valves. I know the valve cover plate says " Hot or Cold" but always try to adjust them hot (read warm). Follow this sequence:

• 1 open adjust 8,
• 2 open adjust 7,
• 3 open adjust 6,
• 4 open adjust 5 or visa/versa.

Continue until all eight valves are adjusted. Open is when the valve spring appears as compressed as it is going to be. Remember, don't slacken off all the locknuts at once. and only adjust the valves (tappets) that require attention. Tight is, tight enough, on the locknuts. A good trick for the right adjustment is to go tight with the next larger size feeler gauge (0.011 inches). Then run the correct size through. It should feel just right, not loose, but not pinching or sticking. When you have adjusted all the valves then check the valves once again, maybe twice. This is a critical step in tuning your engine so take care and do it properly!!!


Another guide: When the o valve is open, adjust the a valve. This is numbered front to back. The clearance should be .010. Use a .009 and a .011 gauge. .009 should go, the .011 should not. Do not tighten the adjustment screw with the feeler in place. It will deform (flatten it). After you finish, check it again to be sure. When in doubt, adjust on the loose side, especially with exhaust valves.

[Bostonian1976]

thanks very much! I'm out in the snow now doing this. Never done it before and my truck has always sounded like a diesel

[Jeff Aronson]

Good luck with it. The advice provided is top flight. I make a paper chart with two columns, 1-8 and 8-1. I cross of the valve as I go along. Otherwise I never remember.

It's best to err on the side of "too loose" than "too tight." After adjusting, start the engine with the valve cover off. Then use your gauge to see if any of the rockers were not adjusted fully. They tend to be tighter than you might think. If you can't put the feeler back in while it's running, then it's likely to be too tight.

If you have the chance, look for the angled feeler gauges with a "go-no go" beveled edge. There's less guesswork with that type of gauge.

Remember, too, that if the rocker arms are worn out or the pushrods are bent slightly, you'll not be able to "adjust them" out. It will still make noise. This is most likely on high mileage cars or cars with lots of engine hours.

Jeff

[JimCT]

hand crank

This is the best time to use your hand crank, with the spark plugs out you can very easily turn the engine ove as you need with the hand crank. Lots easier than starting one with it!

[Bostonian1976]

Done! I had a lot of fun doing this actually and the truck is a lot quieter. Thank you again

[Bostonian1976]

okay I'm still a little more 'rattly' than those trucks I saw at the metal dash event - most of those that I saw hardly had any valve noise at all - just a 'whir'

should I tighten even more? I did it so that I can slip the guage through fairly easily (but not too easily)

[Tim Smith]

okay I'm still a little more 'rattly' than those trucks I saw at the metal dash event - most of those that I saw hardly had any valve noise at all - just a 'whir'

should I tighten even more? I did it so that I can slip the guage through fairly easily (but not too easily)

It could be that you are adjusted too loose but a rattly engine might be coming from more that just the valves. But since you've figured if out whats the harm in trying again, right?

Your idle might be a bit higher than those quiet engines as well. Just a guess.

I had a sII that whirred and a sIII that rattled, knocked and smoked but pulled like a series freight train. The latter engine was modded a bit and I think the high idle was causing the noise. Unfortunately a rod started speaking up, so the motor got pulled for the sII (back to the purr).

PS, the smooth whir is a beautiful thing. I love it myself.

[Tim Smith]

Good luck with it. The advice provided is top flight. I make a paper chart with two columns, 1-8 and 8-1. I cross of the valve as I go along. Otherwise I never remember.

It's best to err on the side of "too loose" than "too tight." After adjusting, start the engine with the valve cover off. Then use your gauge to see if any of the rockers were not adjusted fully. They tend to be tighter than you might think. If you can't put the feeler back in while it's running, then it's likely to be too tight.

If you have the chance, look for the angled feeler gauges with a "go-no go" beveled edge. There's less guesswork with that type of gauge.

Remember, too, that if the rocker arms are worn out or the pushrods are bent slightly, you'll not be able to "adjust them" out. It will still make noise. This is most likely on high mileage cars or cars with lots of engine hours.

Jeff

Jeff,
I love reading your advise but I have to ask you (and the board), can one run a series motor with the valve cover off and not get an oil bath in the bad way? I've never tried this but would love to try!

As always, thanks for your kind advise.

Cheers,
Tim

[Bostonian1976]

yeah power is not a problem with the engine- how tight should the feeler be? I was able to easily pass it through with just a bit of resistance - should it have more?

[yorker]

okay I'm still a little more 'rattly' than those trucks I saw at the metal dash event - most of those that I saw hardly had any valve noise at all - just a 'whir'

should I tighten even more? I did it so that I can slip the guage through fairly easily (but not too easily)

Which gauge slips easily through? .090-.010 or .011?

You are better off to be on the loose side IMHO. Is your rattle valve clatter or elsewhere? Don't expect an old engine to be as silky smooth as someone like Dan's (Landy67). He just rebuilt his a little while ago.

[Bostonian1976]

Which gauge slips easily through? .090-.010 or .011?

You are better off to be on the loose side IMHO. Is your rattle valve clatter or elsewhere? Don't expect an old engine to be as silky smooth as someone like Dan's (Landy67). He just rebuilt his a little while ago.

I just used .010 and didn't try others - yeah when I heard Al R's engine for example the whir was completely different from mine.

[S11A]

...want to adjust my calves today.

Rocky mountain oysters, anyone?

Sorry, couldn't resist.

[yorker]

I just used .010 and didn't try others - yeah when I heard Al R's engine for example the whir was completely different from mine.

Well as long as yours doesn't sound like a bag of nails I wouldn't worry about it.

If you are really curious try the .011 and make sure it doesn't pass through, check this after you have the engine all run up to operating temperature. I know it says hot or cold but IMHO it is better to check when hot.

How is your oil leak- have you tracked it down yet?