Out of the blue it won't idle

[Jim-ME]

Title says it all. Ran great yesterday no problems. It will not idle but starts right up again. Weather today is damp and spitting snow. Spayed everything with WD-40. It didn't help. I am running a Disco-Tech distributor FWTW. Ideas will be happily accepted.
Thanks,
Jim

[S11A]

broken choke cable or related parts?

[Jim-ME]

No that all seems whole but thanks.
Jim
PS
Had to add oil, about a pint and noticed that the oil fill tube is showing evidence of moisture. Can't check the coolant because it's too hot but I don't think I'm loosing any. I know there was a thread about this previously but damed if I can find it.

[LaneRover]

Since the coolant is too warm I am assuming that it won't idle whether it is hot or cold? If it won't idle only when it is cold I would say that something with the choke linkage could be slipping so that it won't engage - it wouldn't be readily apparent as a broken cable.

Other possibilities:

Clogged idle jet

You haven't been giving the Rover enough attention recently

Vacuum leak

In-laws are visiting and they like to give you crap about driving an old truck that doesn't run well.

Brent

[Jim-ME]

Fiddled with it most of the evening still can't get it to idle without the choke being pulled out about 1/2 way. Checked plugs and they were all carboned up (black soot) so I'll replace them tomorrow. Can someone tell me which Champion plug of NGK plug for an 8:1 compression engine with electronic dizzy. I don't trust what is currently in there based on some of the other junk I've found from the PO. This may not be the problem but it sure isn't helping.
Jim

Never mind I found the info on TeriAnne's site. What a wonderful and very useful place!!

[pepe]

I have champion NIIYC (N11YC?) in my s2a. has pertronix. now runs great.

Erik

[yorker]

RN12yc IIRC.

When was the last time you cleaned your carb?


The moisture in the oil fill is no big deal, just make sure there is none in the radiator or in the sump.

[Jim-ME]

I haven't cleaned the carb in the year and a half I've owned it. Heaven only knows when it was cleaned last. Guess its time to pick up a rebuild kit and learn about Webber carbs.
Jim

[Jeff Aronson]

Jim,

It may not need a rebuild yet. Here are some questions:

1. Are you running dry gas? Water in the gas will hinder idling.

1. What carb is it? Zenith? Weber?

2. The carboned up plugs tell you it's running pretty rich [unless they're really oily and wet, and then of course, it's oil]. So first try new plugs and see if the car will idle - unlikely but possible

3. I'd suggest gapping the points, but you don't have them. Can't help you with your distributor.

4. Have you checked for a vacuum leaK? With the motor running spray WD-40 around the intake manifold, carb body where it meets the manifold, top of the carb. If you have a Weber, spray around the throttle shaft at the butterfly, too. If the rpm rise, then that's where you have a vacuum leak. The mixture will be screwed up and the car will run either too lean or rich. Given your plugs, I'd suggest it's running rich.

5. If you have a Weber, it's not uncommon for the idle jet to become clogged. They are more sensitive to clogging than the Solex or the Zenith. Remove the choke cable at the connector and open up the top cover [4 screws] and pull it off to one side. The float will come up with it. Look at the carb bowl. Do you see bits of red or brown stuff in the gas? If so, then mop up the gas with a towel. Then take a thin flathead screwdriver and unscrew the two tiny jets, right and left side. One is straight up, the other is angled. They're small brass items - be careful, don't drop them. Then take some carb cleaner and spray through the jet. Reassemble. Then remove the spring loaded mixture screw at the back of the car, and the main jet that is located on the valve cover side of the carb, on the side of the carb body. Spray them and the orifices, too. You have now cleared out the crud that can block the idle jet.

6. If you have a Zenith, then the problem is usually associated with a vacuum leak at the carb body top and carb body. Air is being sucked in and screwing up the mixture. So you fiddle with the mixture, enrichen it, and then it won't idle or run very well. You can sand down the top of the carb [gently!] with a piece of sandpaper and sheet of glass to assure evenness. Reassemble and it should work fine.

Good luck!

Jeff

[Tim Smith]

Jim,

It may not need a rebuild yet. Here are some questions:

1. Are you running dry gas? Water in the gas will hinder idling.

1. What carb is it? Zenith? Weber?

2. The carboned up plugs tell you it's running pretty rich [unless they're really oily and wet, and then of course, it's oil]. So first try new plugs and see if the car will idle - unlikely but possible

3. I'd suggest gapping the points, but you don't have them. Can't help you with your distributor.

4. Have you checked for a vacuum leaK? With the motor running spray WD-40 around the intake manifold, carb body where it meets the manifold, top of the carb. If you have a Weber, spray around the throttle shaft at the butterfly, too. If the rpm rise, then that's where you have a vacuum leak. The mixture will be screwed up and the car will run either too lean or rich. Given your plugs, I'd suggest it's running rich.

5. If you have a Weber, it's not uncommon for the idle jet to become clogged. They are more sensitive to clogging than the Solex or the Zenith. Remove the choke cable at the connector and open up the top cover [4 screws] and pull it off to one side. The float will come up with it. Look at the carb bowl. Do you see bits of red or brown stuff in the gas? If so, then mop up the gas with a towel. Then take a thin flathead screwdriver and unscrew the two tiny jets, right and left side. One is straight up, the other is angled. They're small brass items - be careful, don't drop them. Then take some carb cleaner and spray through the jet. Reassemble. Then remove the spring loaded mixture screw at the back of the car, and the main jet that is located on the valve cover side of the carb, on the side of the carb body. Spray them and the orifices, too. You have now cleared out the crud that can block the idle jet.

6. If you have a Zenith, then the problem is usually associated with a vacuum leak at the carb body top and carb body. Air is being sucked in and screwing up the mixture. So you fiddle with the mixture, enrichen it, and then it won't idle or run very well. You can sand down the top of the carb [gently!] with a piece of sandpaper and sheet of glass to assure evenness. Reassemble and it should work fine.

Good luck!

Jeff

Yeah, what he said.

[Jim-ME]

Put in new plugs tonight and it didn't help which I'm sure is of no surprise to anyone. Too cold to tear into it tonight but do I need a replacement gasket if I take the top off? By the way its a Weber 34ICH.
Jim

[Jeff Aronson]

Do you mean a new gasket on the Weber? No, just remove it gently and it will be fine.

This task does not take that long. If it's as cold in Brewer as it is on Vinalhaven, you might want to remove the carb from the car and do this work inside!

Jeff

[Jim-ME]

I've hit the my frustration quota for one night and work comes early tomorrow so I'll let it go for now. Luckly I have alternate transportation for tomorrow. I'll be able to tackle it after work. Is there a website to shows how to tear down a Weber?
Jim

[Jeff Aronson]

Jim,
This is way more than you need, but this link will take you to some pages of a book on Webers. The link is here.

But you're not really diassembling much. Give me a call tomorrow night if you have questions. I'll be at home. PM me if you've lost the number.

Best wishes,

Jeff

[thixon]

Sounds like a vacuum leak, or a clogged jet. Pull the carb apart and clean the s@#t out of it. Then check for vacuum leaks. Good Luck.