Daily Driving in a Series IIa

[VespaFitz]

About six months ago, I traded a motorcycle for a 1970 Series IIa. At the time, I had a 1995 Saab 900S I was driving to work every day. It had a ton of miles on it, and I got an offer for decent money, so I sold it.

So I'm left with the IIa. For the last month or so, I've been driving it to work every day. I only live about 10 miles from work, and a couple of times a week, I drop my daughter off at day care, making my trip about 18 miles.

It was my original intent to buy a cheap, small pickup, but the more I drive the IIa, the more I enjoy it, and I'm thinking about making a few changes to be able to drive it more comfortably.

Here's what I'm thinking:

• Parabolic springs with Rancho shocks
• Steering stabilizer
• A better set of tires (the Sears tires on it now really stink)
• An overdrive (or a high-ratio trans from Rovers North)

Am I missing anything?

Here's what it looks like currently:

[msggunny]

What you want to do to it is essentially what i have been driving for the past 6 years daily, minus the O/D.

Just watch the maint and keep up with it.

The High Ratio tcase isnt a good idea unless you have a really strong engine, even then i have heard lots of bad about using it with the rover 2.25. I have a ton of work done to mine but have been advised against doing it because even after squeezing every ounce of HP you can get (almost) from one it may not perform as well.

They work well with the Robert Davis engine conversion.

great truck!

[DRTPOOR]

Great looking Series! I think you should go for the new tires 235-85-16 (assuming you have 16 inch rims), stabilizer and get a new set of OIL shocks. I have a fairy overdrive that rarely gets used and my Series III is a daily driver as well here in Minnesota. The larger tires help considerably for speed. Brakes should be in good condition when this is done. I have run many sets of gas shocks with parabolics on my series vehicles and dont think it rides quite as good with them. (my opinion anyway) Looks like you may have a few leaks. Replace your oil pan gasket. Takes about 30-50 min to do it. Scrape away all of the existing gasket when you pull the oil pan off. Replace the brass gasket and the plug while your at it. It also looks as the transmission and transfer cases are leaking a bit? A little trick I use is to put teflon tape (like used on air tool fittings) around the plugs, with new brass gaskets on the plugs as well, and then put them back in. Make sure all of your fluids are fresh in the front and read diff. Keep your oil changed regularly. Cheap insurance to save your motor. Other than those things you should be good. You are driving a piece of history that helped colonize the world!!! Keep it running!

[DRTPOOR]

Great looking Series! I think you should go for the new tires 235-85-16 (assuming you have 16 inch rims), stabilizer and get a new set of OIL shocks. I have a fairy overdrive that rarely gets used and my Series III is a daily driver as well here in Minnesota. The larger tires help considerably for speed. Brakes should be in good condition when this is done. I have run many sets of gas shocks with parabolics on my series vehicles and dont think it rides quite as good with them. (my opinion anyway) Looks like you may have a few leaks. Replace your oil pan gasket. Takes about 30-50 min to do it. Scrape away all of the existing gasket when you pull the oil pan off. Replace the brass gasket and the plug while your at it. It also looks as the transmission and transfer cases are leaking a bit? A little trick I use is to put teflon tape (like used on air tool fittings) around the plugs, with new brass gaskets on the plugs as well, and then put them back in. Make sure all of your fluids are fresh in the front and read diff. Keep your oil changed regularly. Cheap insurance to save your motor. Other than those things you should be good. You are driving a piece of history that helped colonize the world!!! Keep it running!

[TeriAnn]

Here's what I'm thinking:

• Parabolic springs with Rancho shocks
• Steering stabilizer
• A better set of tires (the Sears tires on it now really stink)
• An overdrive (or a high-ratio trans from Rovers North)

Parbolic springs & new shocks. OK

Steering stabilizer? I put one on my Land Rover and could not tell the difference. That money is much better spent on a professional front end alignment after you installed your new tyres and verified that your tie rod ends are in very good condition. A series Land Rover has very tight alignment specs and handles rock solid when properly aligned.

The one thing I have found that transforms the vehicle is power steering.
Heystee Automotive has a power steering kit for Series Land Rovers that is as bolt on as you can get. http://www.heystee-automotive.com

They also supply one of the best parabolic springs for Series Land Rovers in the world.

Better tyres - OK. For commuting, better tyres usually mean good high mileage street tyres.

Overdrive of high ratio kit. Overdrive OK, Check with Rovers Down South.

High ratio transfercase? Think twice. Think Thrice. In stock form the Series Land Rover is good 55 MPH vehicle with leisurely acceleration. It takes power to push real tall gears. Under many conditions, more power than a stock 2.25L can provide. With taller gears you will get more slug like acceleration.

When measured at the axle the overall ratio of a Land Rover with a high ratio transfercase is almost identical to that of a Series Land Rover with 3.54 diffs. The advantage of the high ratio transfercase is that you retain your low range gear ratios for off road travel. If you plan to use your Land Rover mostly on the street with off roading on maintained trails (mild off roading) then you can save a lot of money by getting a pair of diffs off a Range Rover Classic sitting in a wrecking yard. Then if you decide the ratio is too tall you can easily swap back to your stock diffs.

To run a high ratio kit you should have a Land Rover that is light in weight with a more powerful engine. Even then it takes a fair amount of power to accelerate as quickly as a stock geared Land Rover.

If you don't have one, try to locate a copy of the factory owners manual. It have very recently gone out of print but is well worth its weight. It has the factory maintenance schedule and step by step instructions on how to carry out all the maintenance steps.

They way to keep a Series Land Rover reliable is to religiously follow the factory maintenance schedule.

[VespaFitz]

Great looking Series! I think you should go for the new tires 235-85-16 (assuming you have 16 inch rims), stabilizer and get a new set of OIL shocks. I have a fairy overdrive that rarely gets used and my Series III is a daily driver as well here in Minnesota. The larger tires help considerably for speed. Brakes should be in good condition when this is done. I have run many sets of gas shocks with parabolics on my series vehicles and dont think it rides quite as good with them. (my opinion anyway) Looks like you may have a few leaks. Replace your oil pan gasket. Takes about 30-50 min to do it. Scrape away all of the existing gasket when you pull the oil pan off. Replace the brass gasket and the plug while your at it. It also looks as the transmission and transfer cases are leaking a bit? A little trick I use is to put teflon tape (like used on air tool fittings) around the plugs, with new brass gaskets on the plugs as well, and then put them back in. Make sure all of your fluids are fresh in the front and read diff. Keep your oil changed regularly. Cheap insurance to save your motor. Other than those things you should be good. You are driving a piece of history that helped colonize the world!!! Keep it running!

That pic's from when I first got it.

The engine doesn't appear to leak at all (it had been rebuilt before I got it.) It's in front of a Land Rover shop, so the oil stains are from something else, I guess.

What was leaking like a sieve was the output shaft on the transmission. As soon as I got it home, I replaced it and it's been leak-free ever since.

I'm slowly but surely chasing down every leak it has.

Good tips on the service manual and maintenance. I did notice that it becomes VERY obvious when it's time for an oil change. I'll shorten the interval by 1,000 miles, or just do it once every three months regardless of mileage from now on.

[greenmeanie]

What has been said is in general good advice. I would add a couple of things:
I've driven trucks with and without the steering stabilizer and it makes no real difference on a SWB IMO. I would spend the time going through the steering system checking, steering box lash, ball joints and swivel preload. She should steer very nicely if all is well with that lot.

If your using her everyday on the road I would go for a set of radials with at most an AT tread. Big mud meats look cool but unless you off road regularly they do consume fuel and do not help handling. A second set of wheels with your off road play tyres is always nice to have though.

Big tyres help and hinder as they directly affect the gearing of your truck. A bigger rolling diameter will mean you accelerate slower but will reduce your rpms on the freeway. They will also mean that your engine lugs down earlier on long hills. I've been running 30X9.5X15 Kirkland el cheapo radials for the last 8 years and they make for a good daily driver. They came with the truck and despite my best attempts I am only now getting them to wear out. With a mildly improved 2.25 and a Roverdrive she will romp along at 70mph on the Freeway at approx. 3400 rpm. Of course they have limited my offroad capability but I have a 101 to take care of that.

Other things I would recommend for a daily driver are:
1. A spin on oil filter adapter. It makes changing the oil a much cleaner afair and you can pick up filters at any auto store.
2. Electronic ignition. I fitted one when I got the truck and, other than occasional new plugs, rotor and dizzy cap I never touch the ignition. She runs like a champ and the only electric probelms I get are related to the crappy mechanically regulated alternator I've been running.
3. Good plug leads. I run a set from Magnecor. They will last the life of the truck.
4. Oh and a set of relays to run Halogen headlights if they're not on already. It makes a world of difference being able to see at night.

Cheers
Gregor

[Eric W S]

Add Kodiak or uprated heater if you live with cold winters.

Add a nice Soft top if you live in the sun belt.

OD over the T-Case.

Add a petronix or other updated ignition system.

Add the 2.5 cam, Rochester, and latest distributor.

Sound proofing would be nice as well.

I wouldn't touch the diffs right off. A Series Land Rover is what it is and you're only going 10 miles and it doesn't sound like your going to swap power plants anytime soon. Take the scenic route with the top off. Find new short cuts. Leave earlier to ensure you have the requisite amount of time to arrive punctually. In other words slow down and enjoy! The 2.25 in good tune can be quite snappy around town on local roads.

When and if you decide to regear do it right. Get the Toyota Conversion from Series Trek. Or ARBs with Series Trek 24 splines. Why swap crap out and marginally better crap in? In one shot you get better thirds that lock and much stronger axles. Done right and done once.

[VespaFitz]

Steering stabilizer? I put one on my Land Rover and could not tell the difference. That money is much better spent on a professional front end alignment after you installed your new tyres and verified that your tie rod ends are in very good condition. A series Land Rover has very tight alignment specs and handles rock solid when properly aligned.

Excellent. Will do.

The one thing I have found that transforms the vehicle is power steering.
Heystee Automotive has a power steering kit for Series Land Rovers that is as bolt on as you can get. http://www.heystee-automotive.com

Thanks! I'll look into that. My forearms thank you as well.

Better tyres

- OK. For commuting, better tyres usually mean good high mileage street tyres.

I'm looking for something that'll work as both an on-road tire, with enough grip for occasional forays into the mud. I live on a dirt road that turns to soupy mud in the spring, plus I do quite a bit of light off-road driving hauling firewood, etc.

When I had a CJ, I was very impressed with BFG All-Terrain TAs, both for on- and off-road work. Though that may be because the K-Mart junk I had on it when I bought it were so awful.

Overdrive of high ratio kit

. Overdrive OK, Check with Rovers Down South.

High ratio transfercase? Think twice. Think Thrice. In stock form the Series Land Rover is good 55 MPH vehicle with leisurely acceleration. It takes power to push real tall gears. Under many conditions, more power than a stock 2.25L can provide. With taller gears you will get more slug like acceleration.

When measured at the axle the overall ratio of a Land Rover with a high ratio transfercase is almost identical to that of a Series Land Rover with 3.54 diffs. The advantage of the high ratio transfercase is that you retain your low range gear ratios for off road travel. If you plan to use your Land Rover mostly on the street with off roading on maintained trails (mild off roading) then you can save a lot of money by getting a pair of diffs off a Range Rover Classic sitting in a wrecking yard. Then if you decide the ratio is too tall you can easily swap back to your stock diffs.

To run a high ratio kit you should have a Land Rover that is light in weight with a more powerful engine. Even then it takes a fair amount of power to accelerate as quickly as a stock geared Land Rover.

Thanks for the advice.

If you don't have one, try to locate a copy of the factory owners manual. It have very recently gone out of print but is well worth its weight. It has the factory maintenance schedule and step by step instructions on how to carry out all the maintenance steps.

They way to keep a Series Land Rover reliable is to religiously follow the factory maintenance schedule.

Will do. Appreciate it!

[VespaFitz]

What has been said is in general good advice. I would add a couple of things:
I've driven trucks with and without the steering stabilizer and it makes no real difference on a SWB IMO. I would spend the time going through the steering system checking, steering box lash, ball joints and swivel preload. She should steer very nicely if all is well with that lot.

If your using her everyday on the road I would go for a set of radials with at most an AT tread. Big mud meats look cool but unless you off road regularly they do consume fuel and do not help handling. A second set of wheels with your off road play tyres is always nice to have though.

Big tyres help and hinder as they directly affect the gearing of your truck. A bigger rolling diameter will mean you accelerate slower but will reduce your rpms on the freeway. They will also mean that your engine lugs down earlier on long hills. I've been running 30X9.5X15 Kirkland el cheapo radials for the last 8 years and they make for a good daily driver. They came with the truck and despite my best attempts I am only now getting them to wear out. With a mildly improved 2.25 and a Roverdrive she will romp along at 70mph on the Freeway at approx. 3400 rpm. Of course they have limited my offroad capability but I have a 101 to take care of that.

Other things I would recommend for a daily driver are:
1. A spin on oil filter adapter. It makes changing the oil a much cleaner afair and you can pick up filters at any auto store.
2. Electronic ignition. I fitted one when I got the truck and, other than occasional new plugs, rotor and dizzy cap I never touch the ignition. She runs like a champ and the only electric probelms I get are related to the crappy mechanically regulated alternator I've been running.
3. Good plug leads. I run a set from Magnecor. They will last the life of the truck.
4. Oh and a set of relays to run Halogen headlights if they're not on already. It makes a world of difference being able to see at night.

Cheers
Gregor

I should've mentioned that there was a LOT done to it before I got it, including:

A Weber carb
Pertronix Ignition
Halogen Headlamps (though the wiring was a hack job I'm going to remedy this week)
Spin-on Filter adapter
Mt. Mansfield heater

It runs great. About the only issue I have is that on warm days (of which I've had about two since I got it here in Vermont), the temp needle climbs pretty close to the red. I'm not sure what's going on there. I looked around a bit, and I need to see if the fan's got the proper shroud. I've also read that the Pertronix can cause the temp to run higher.

It's been fine since it's been cold, but I need to take care of it before summer.

Thanks for the advice on the tires. These are really lousy. They're ok on the road, but terrible in the snow.

[VespaFitz]

Add a nice Soft top if you live in the sun belt.

Definitely, even though I live in Vermont.

They ain't cheap, though. Yikes.

Sound proofing would be nice as well.

What? Speak up.

[leafsprung]

Daily Driver

Personally I would focus on getting the basic truck in top shape before adding all these do-dahs. The TIC power steering kit is NOT worthwhile. Its expensive and has many drawbacks. Inevitably an unrestored series truck has leaks, wiring glitches and deferred maintenance that you should address first and will make far more difference in your daily driving than many of the items you listed. The suspension and tires are worthy but add:

-electrical faults
-leaks
-brakes (including parking brake
-steering joints, box, swivel balls

[VespaFitz]

The suspension and tires are worthy but add:

-electrical faults

Found one that made the guages and taillamps quit, and another that shut the truck off entirely. Both were a two-second fix with some emery paper. No problems since, but I'm tracking down some bad soldering here and there.

-leaks

I was on leak patrol before the weather got really cold. I'll be back on it once it warms up a bit and I can spend more than 10 minutes in the garage.

-brakes (including parking brake

Brakes are generally good, and when I did the output shaft seal, I put new shoes and springs in the parking brake. Works good now.

-steering joints, box, swivel balls

I'll get into this next, I think.

[I Leak Oil]

Comfortable seats....Fix all rattles and squeeks.......
JasonT.

[Jeff Aronson]

I've used one or another of my Series II-A's as a daily driver since 1991. Sometimes they have been used on a commute, sometimes for long trips to job assignments. Once in a great while, something has failed me and twice has it required a flatbed home. Not bad for 17 years.

Series Rovers are maintenance intensive by today's standards. If you look at the Haynes manual, for example, there are tasks you're supposed to do weekly[!]. If you don't like adjusting, tightening, checking, and then performing regular maintenance, then know that it might let you down in daily driving. Of course, you'll find the same with a very used pickup; the difference is that there's little to adjust, you can only replace.

One of the fascinating aspects of a Series Rover is that it will run essentially the same whether it has 10% of its life left or 90% of its life left. It's not often that the car will signal to you when it needs attention. Something will just stop working properly or running well.

The II-A I bought in 1991 was nowhere near as nice as the Rover you have described, but I was putting 25-30,000 miles a year on it anyway. To make that work successfully, I had to become a much better mechanic and be much more attuned to the vehicle. One move that I took much too long on was improving the electrical system with new wiring harnesses. Once I did, many of the aggravating problems that only seemed to happen at night or in inclement weather seemed to disappear.

I've run BF Goodrich All-Terrains and/or Mud Terrains for many years and have been very pleased, on road and off road. 16" wheels are the way to go, too.

I was doing a lot of driving all over northern New England so eventually I bought a Fairey overdrive. Unless I'm entering a highway, or moving on 55-65 mph roads, I find I don't use it much. It was really just an economy measure introduced by Land Rover because of the fuel crisis in the later '70's. It doesn't really make a lot of difference on shorter drives, and it's one less thing to go wrong. My other II-A does not have an overdrive and it seems to barrel along at about the same clip regardless.

Neither car has a steering stabilizer and I would not be proponent of a power steering unit, either. Once my steering was properly adjusted at the steering box, it became easier to use at low speeds and in parking situations.

The Mansfield heater is the goods for New England weather. One Rover has the Mansfield, the other has the Kodiak. Both work but the Mansfield makes a difference when the temperature falls below 10 F.

You mentioned the high running temperature. One change that I noticed with the Mansfield heater is that I had to be more contientious about switching between summer and winter thermostats with that heater, whereas the Kodiak-equipped car does not seem be affected the same way. If you're experiencing high temperatures when the outdoor temperature is >40 degrees, then you might want to run a summer range thermostat. I change mine every spring and fall.

Does your car have the radiator shroud? Is the timing advanced too far? That will cause high running temperatures? Has the radiator ever been flushed? Are you running a radiator muff? If you have a winter range thermostat in it, is it working? It's an inexpensive replacement, or you can drop it in boiling water and see whether it opens.

Enjoy your Series as a daily driver - I do!

Jeff