Linex-Rhinoliner-Armacoat etc.

[Leslie]

I found a stall mat at Tractor Supply, I think it was 4x6, at least a half-inch thick, don't know if it was a 3/4" thick or not; I'm out of town at the moment, but can check it's thickness when I get home, it may be 3/4".....

[lrdukdog]

horse stall mat

Our dog training club used 1" thick mats. They are very good for both noise and traction. I think they did smell at first but that went away fairly quickly.
Jim Wolf

[scott]

mine came with a carpet kit and sound proofing pads under it and is a lot quieter than badvibes near ***** interior. but now that i'm repairing footwells i wish the po had glued the sound pad to the back of the carpet that snaps in instead of glueing it to the truck.

wow! the curse word filter didn't like me saying badvibes truck's interior is near neighked

[Bertha]

I just used the product below on my latest project, but since the truck isnt on the road yet, I cant give you any definite results. However reading up on it, it seems like many other people have used it in a similiar application with alot of success

http://www.lizardskin.com/lizard_skin/street_rods.php

[adkrover]

My truck is Rhino'd and it helps cut vibration noise from all the floppy sheet metal. The best thing for cutting engine noise has been the heavy duty molded front floor mat that completely covers the gear tunnel. For general road and exhaust noise, I purchased commercial door mats for the rear and cargo area of my 109. Horse mats are cheaper but not as nice in my opinion. If you want to cut noise, the Rhino type linings are probably not your best use of $ but if your truck is all apart it would be a good time to do it. Otherwise invest in good form fitting mats. Also, a proper headliner makes a huge difference too.

[ybt502r]

I second the comment on the thick form fitting rubber mats. I picked some up in the UK (where I got the truck), and they make a big difference (save when I use the overdrive, nothing helps there). They are big and heavy, but they are formed to the tunnel and footwells and really do the job. I've only a rubber mat on the back, so perhaps there's room for improvement there, but I've indoor/outdoor carpet glued down which does help.

[BellaCoola]

I went down to my local carpet store and picked up a 6' x 9' roll of closed cell high density foam that is used under carpets ($35.). Easy to cut with a sharp utility knife. So far I've used it to line the inside of my hardtop and also the footwells and rear load bed. With all applications (except the hardtop) the closed cell liner is covered by a protective substrate...ie: carpet or rubber mats.

I've noticed a marked improvement in noise and once I do the gearbox tunnel I suspect this will also reduce interior noise as well.

On the hardtop I used 3M 77 Spray adhesive and this works great. For the footwells I've just cut to size using the rubber floor mats as a template. I didn't glue these down as I want to be able to remove them for clean-up.

[JayGoss]

I took my truck apart in as small of pieces as practical. I took the bits to the shop over a long period of time and the guy sprayed them in his spare time. I then drove the truck to him and he sprayed the inside of the bulkhead and the rear load space. (The bulkhead would have been better if it was sprayed off the vehicle - both inside and out - but I was not preprared to go that far.)

The whole deal cost me about $750. Obviously, I thought it was worth it.

You can go cheaper by doing the roll on product yourself and not doing as much of the truck. I also had the shop do all of the prep work becasue he wanted to do it to make sure it was done right and I really did not want to do it.

I highly recommend taking as many parts apart and spraying them seperately so that you do not paint the whole truck together. Also, you have to accept that you are adding 1/8 or 1/16 of an inch to the size of every panel. So things do not always fit back together as nicely I had to pursuade a few bits back togehter but most of the "factory tolerances" allowed for the extra size.

Anyone know what sort of prep work is required prior to application of Line-X? Thinking about a winter project & would like to do as much of the work myself.

[Leslie]

Anyone know what sort of prep work is required prior to application of Line-X? Thinking about a winter project & would like to do as much of the work myself.

Clean, and sand it. I had my new pick-up's bed Line-X'd, just showed up at the place, they scuffed it all up with sandpaper before applying. It goes on hot and cures, so, it'll go on w/o too much fuss, just scuff it enough, methinks.

[Firemanshort]

The surface must be very clean and grease free. Then they scuff the paint real well - my guy used a wire wheel.

[redmondrover]

Horse Stall Mats for Sound Insulation

Ditto what others have said about stall mats. I bought two and made mats for my wife's 109--front, middle and rear. I used the left over pieces to line the rear tool box, the passenger seat tool box and re-cover the original side steps.

Pictures available at the blog I just started about the frame swap we have begun on the 109: www.redmondrover.blogspot.com

[greenmeanie]

Redmond,
At the risk of hijacking the thread I see from your blog that you have a Chevy 6. I'd be interested to know what fuel consumption your getting and whether it is a 250 or a 292.

[redmondrover]

Chevy 250

greenmeanie,

We have a Chevy 250 in our 109. If the speedometer worked consistently, I could calculate actual mileage! Right now, my best guess is around 16mpg. If you would like to discuss further, send me a PM with an email address or phone number.

As part of the frame swap, we will insulate the hood, spray fire resistant foam inside the wings, under the floors and in the seatbox plus cover the bulkhead with dynamat, BQuiet or similar stuff.

For those of you who are interested, you can follow our frame swap project on our blog. I will be posting the first steps of that project this evening. We expect the project to be complete by mid-December.