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Hello, I switched out my series III 109 turn signal lights for the fancy LED lights. I started in the back and replaced the rear ones but left the OEM lights in front and it worked great. I removed the OEM sockets in front and put the LED lights in and all they do is turn on and do not blink (front and rear lights). If I re-install one of the OEM sockets, the LED on the installed side blinks fine. How do I fix this problem? is there not enough of a power draw to trip the relay switch or do I need to do something else??
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From memory you need to add a ballast resistor with this type of set up.
With the old type luminescent bulb the resistance of both bulbs front and rear set the blink interval for the flasher relay. When one bulb blows then the flash interval speeds up. With very little resistance of the LED's then this problem is taken to the extreme that the flasher will not pulse.
That's probably a rather muddled explanation but is the gist of your problem.
Cheers
Gregor -
Is there a particular ballast resistor I should get?
Hello Gregor, which flavor of ballast resistor should I get?
Thanks
Chris
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I could be wrong, could an electronic flasher replacement work in this case? I know they do not rely on a certain resistance for the flashing rate. It blinks as fast for the vehicle alone, or with trailer lights added.Comment
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Well I'm just quoting from memory so I'm not a real expert.Originally posted by cscuttHello Gregor, which flavor of ballast resistor should I get?
Thanks
Chris
The way I would approach this is: Hook up your old lights again and power up. Use your multimeter to check the voltage and current at the flasher relay. As R= V/I you will know the resistance of your old flasher system.
Then hook up your new system and do the same to find out its resitance. R(old) - R (new) = R (ballast). Once you have that value it's off to Radioshack with you. Just splice (I won't start the crimp vs solder fight here) the resistor in line and you should be fine.
Of course, I haven't done this myself so I warn you to go out and do some interweb research to get comfortable with making your mods. Any bright flashes and fireballs are not my fault.
Cheers
GregorComment
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This is correct. You can get an electronic flasher from any parts store. This should do the trick!Originally posted by gudjeon99 D1
73 Series III 88"
95 RRC LWBComment
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Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the information, it solves my problem and another problem that a friend of mine has with his jeep. bright flashes and fireballs happen, I can live with that....especially when it happens to my friends jeep! LOL
Chris
Last edited by cscutt; 03-12-2008, 11:26 PM.Comment
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Glad it's fixed but are they any good?
Hi Chris,
There is another thread asking about the pluses and minuses of the LED's.
Can you tell us what you think of them? Are these the screw in bulb replacements? How many LED's each? Are they brighter than standard? Can they be seen from side angles? Do you think they were worth the cost?
Got any comparison pictures?
Cheers,
TimComment
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LED pictures are forthcomming
I will get you the info on the LED lights and the bulb count, Once the LED's work, it is impressive when they blink. I have used the hard wire ones as well as the ones that you fit right into the OEM socket. The ones that fit into the socket are spendy but the pain in the hide factor is eliminated and you can put the lucas lens cover back on so that you can appear to be era specific....until you turn left or right. I purchased the lights with pigtail (hard wire) for about $7.00 each. I have to play GI Joe this week end so it will be next week before the pics and data are sent.
Thanks
Chris
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I've never tried these, but every red blooded Canuck will recognize where they're from. The LED bulbs are about half way down.
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