Axle shipping weight.

[autoguy]

Well, now you are talking. Those springs are pretty heavy too.

Don't let these guys make you feel bad. I once pulled my back lifting the hood of my truck.






Although the hood still had the spare on it and was suction cupped into a mud hole at the time.

aye tis all good, i know its in jest

jp, what should I work up from to be able to bench an axle ?

[yorker]

Gregor- are you sure you don't want to go the Toyota conversion route? I know there is some appeal to have a salisbury since your 101 has them too but the toyota conversion is more practical- especially since you can use a lot more R&P ratios. With a powerful 292 I don't think you really need the 4.7s anymore. Plus how much really interchanges between the 101 Sals and the Series Sals?

[yorker]

Well, now you are talking. Those springs are pretty heavy too.

Don't let these guys make you feel bad. I once pulled my back lifting the hood of my truck.






Although the hood still had the spare on it and was suction cupped into a mud hole at the time.

I had a boss once that HATED Land Rovers- on his first day as a kid working for a land surveying firm he had gone out to put the battery in one of the firm's Land Rovers and a stiff gust of wind closed the hood on his hand breaking his fingers in it...

[greenmeanie]

Gregor- are you sure you don't want to go the Toyota conversion route? I know there is some appeal to have a salisbury since your 101 has them too but the toyota conversion is more practical- especially since you can use a lot more R&P ratios. With a powerful 292 I don't think you really need the 4.7s anymore. Plus how much really interchanges between the 101 Sals and the Series Sals?

Ah yes Yorker,
I agree they are attractive. I was more addressing the 30 spline axle route. At the moment I'm just trying to sort a few things and have to realise a limited budget. As such I was thinking a simple sals swap covering one axle would be the cheapest route, even figuring in the ugly shipping.

Rather than a nut and bolt rebuild from scratch I am planning this rebuild in stages.
1st stage is to sddress the immediate issues on the truck that prevent it from being roadworthy. In this case the hydraulics need overhauled and the fuel tank needs sealed and it looks like a rewire is on the cards. I just love wiring trucks it seems. She needs proper seat belts and high back seats for safety.

2nd stage is making her look pretty and one colour so my wife isn't embarassed to have it in the driveway. This makes a big difference to how weasy the project will go if you know what I mean. I also want to adress some of the safety issues like adding rock sliders to add strength in case of side impact

3rd stage is where I will really start addressing the areas of the truck I want to improve. Putting a good axle set up under her and an NP435 plus high ratio ntransfer case in there.

4th stage is adding any frivolous goodies like roof racks, radio and furry dice.

Cheers
Gregor

[jp-]

I had a boss once that HATED Land Rovers- on his first day as a kid working for a land surveying firm he had gone out to put the battery in one of the firm's Land Rovers and a stiff gust of wind closed the hood on his hand breaking his fingers in it...

I once had a 1970 Caddy hood closed on my fingers...

Yeah, it sucked.

[sven]

I once had a 1970 Caddy hood closed on my fingers...

Yeah, it sucked.

I bet that Caddy hood weighed more than a Salsbury Axle.

[LaneRover]

I bet that Caddy hood weighed more than a Salsbury Axle.

May have been stronger too!

[Willard]

Gregor- are you sure you don't want to go the Toyota conversion route? I know there is some appeal to have a salisbury since your 101 has them too but the toyota conversion is more practical- especially since you can use a lot more R&P ratios.

This is exactly what i am doing to mine. I am putting '78 FJ40 axles into the Rover and i can tell you it is not a direct bolt in, i will have to reweld the spring perches at the minimum, but it looks like it will be a great conversion and gives me disk brakes in the front.

The Sals Axles weights about 275lbs according to my bathroom scale (sorry i did not have anything else and very happy i have my own engine crane)

[yorker]

Ah yes Yorker,
I agree they are attractive. I was more addressing the 30 spline axle route. At the moment I'm just trying to sort a few things and have to realise a limited budget. As such I was thinking a simple sals swap covering one axle would be the cheapest route, even figuring in the ugly shipping.

I think in that event I'd just try a set of 24 spline rover axles from Jim Young. Maybe with a True Trac rear diff or a later 24 spline Disco doff(or mayne P38 RR. I think some of the later diffs were 24 spline 4 pin? In fact I think that is what all the HD 110s are using now- hasn't LR abandoned the Sals axles now for 4 pin 24 spline rover stuff- Seems I read that somewhere....

[greenmeanie]

I think in that event I'd just try a set of 24 spline rover axles from Jim Young. Maybe with a True Trac rear diff or a later 24 spline Disco doff(or mayne P38 RR. I think some of the later diffs were 24 spline 4 pin? In fact I think that is what all the HD 110s are using now- hasn't LR abandoned the Sals axles now for 4 pin 24 spline rover stuff- Seems I read that somewhere....

Yes, Rover has gone 4 pin rover style on all the new defenders. I've no idea how they compare to the sals. For $200-$500 it's hard to beat the sals for a direct swap for strength for the money. Of course, that figures that you can find one close enough to economically ship/pick up. Man I miss the UK wher I was practically tripping over the damn things. Old rover parts are few and far between in Phoenix.

After a thorough examination she'll need at least new springs, hydraulic seals, a good steering overhaul, new radiator configuration, the fuel tank sealed, seat belts and probably a rewire before I even get close to axles. I think my bank manger is in tears all ready.

Willard, I am still trying tofigure out shipping but it looks like it may be a deal breaker on this one.

Cheers
Gregor

[yorker]

Well I guess you might as well gewt it together and running and see how you like it with the gearing you have now- then you can decide what to do about rear axles. Cheapest solution might be 24 spline shafts and a disco 24 spline Diff- you should be able to get one of them for $50 or so. They are 2 pin but it would give you a margin of strength over the 10 spline stuff.

Either that or a set of FJ55 or FJ60 axles...

[greenmeanie]

Either that or a set of FJ55 or FJ60 axles...

I know, I know, I'll get there eventually. Just keep beating me up about it.

[Willard]

Either that or a set of FJ55 or FJ60 axles...

Greenmeanie,
I can let you know how the FJ40 axles end up.
IF all goes well, i might only need to reweld the spring perches. So far on the front (need to readjust a few things for final fitment) it looks to be just about perfect.
I would think FJ60 axles to be too wide.
The front 40 axle is almost the exact same width and the spring mount are almost dead on to the original 109 axle. The rear has not been measured yet.
Nice thing about going LC axles are the options you have (and yes you can get stronger birfields) and you get disk brakes up front. The bad thing is it will require a little more work to fit them, they are not original series axles (if your keeping that concept), but all in all I think it will be ok and if done right, will look almost like it was ment to be.

[greenmeanie]

Cheers for that Willard,
I am not overly concerned about originality as she already has a Chevy 6 cyl conversion. I'm just poking around seeing where I can get the best bang for my hard earned and very rare buck. The Toy axles sound a good way to go in the long term, I was just hoping to take the shortest and simplest route for the time being.

Cheers
Gregor

[zayante]

Does the LC axle match up well with the LR steering linkage? Would you also want to install the LC steering box?