thanks, I'm guessing turning the dizzy clockwise is advance right ? would the timing being off cause the low compression on the front two cylinders ?
Think of the rotor as turning clockwise. So to advance the timing, you want to make the cap hit the rotor sooner which means you actually turn the cap/dizzy counter clockwise. Advanced is naturally the opposite.
Low compression could have other effects but shouldn't effect timing.
Think of the rotor as turning clockwise. So to advance the timing, you want to make the cap hit the rotor sooner which means you actually turn the cap/dizzy counter clockwise. Advanced is naturally the opposite.
Low compression could have other effects but shouldn't effect timing.
Good luck and tell us how it goes.
the compression shouldn't be effected by the timing ?
thanks for telling me how to advance the timing
I will keep yall updated, I still think it is the head gasket too
autoguy, you should spend some time reading up on engine fundamentals.
compression or the lack thereof is in no way related to ignition timing.
a compression check should be done with the engine up toi runnig temperature with the throttle blocked open and the ignition disabled.
crank six or seven times and take the highest reading.
your readings of 30% or so difference do not indicate a head gasket problem.
do the compression check again (using the starter motor this time) and then do it a third time, putting a squirt or two of oil into the cylinder to seal the rings. take note of any difference in the readings. any major discrepancy indicates wear in the bores.
your readings should be within 10-15% at absolute worst. anything greater than that is indicative of a larger problem and should be rectified.
typically a blown head gasket will be between cylinder resulting in two or more adjacent cylinders showing very low compression like 30 psi.
like my ailing 4 cylinder that is now 150-50-50-50...
Originally posted by autoguy
thanks for the link
A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."
My best guess is you are way out of timing, as I had the same symptoms once. The hold down on the dizzy came loose on a long drive and let the dizzy turn to about 90 degrees out of time. The engine knocked in all gears and at virtually all speeds. It freaked me out, until I checked it.
Anyway, if you are timing the engine after a conversion, you should use the rocker arms to determine TDC for #1 and set your dizzy accordingly. I'm not sure about the flywheel notch, but I think if you use that you could be 180 degrees out of time since the flywheel turns twice per complete engine cycle.
Okay, so I had a few minutes and was looking through the bayourovers site. Great stuff there by the way.
Originally posted by http://www.bayourovers.com/trick19.html
Rotation clockwise advances the timing, counter clockwise retards it.
I read the line above and thought, "Hang on a tick, I wrote something different."
Originally posted by Tim Smith
Think of the rotor as turning clockwise. So to advance the timing, you want to make the cap hit the rotor sooner which means you actually turn the cap/dizzy counter clockwise. Advanced is naturally the opposite.
Looks like I wasn't making sense on the RN board (again). My heart was in the right place but my advice was confusing. So read the bayourovers version of what direction does what and you won't need a stiff drink quite as fast.
Don't forget to let us know how it goes with the knock knock(s).
autoguy, you should spend some time reading up on engine fundamentals.
compression or the lack thereof is in no way related to ignition timing.
a compression check should be done with the engine up toi runnig temperature with the throttle blocked open and the ignition disabled.
crank six or seven times and take the highest reading.
your readings of 30% or so difference do not indicate a head gasket problem.
do the compression check again (using the starter motor this time) and then do it a third time, putting a squirt or two of oil into the cylinder to seal the rings. take note of any difference in the readings. any major discrepancy indicates wear in the bores.
your readings should be within 10-15% at absolute worst. anything greater than that is indicative of a larger problem and should be rectified.
typically a blown head gasket will be between cylinder resulting in two or more adjacent cylinders showing very low compression like 30 psi.
like my ailing 4 cylinder that is now 150-50-50-50...
or maybe, not i was thinking that timing did not have anything to do with compression, and the above way you stated to check compression is how we did it basically , we read in the green bible how to check the compression, at first we started off with using the starter but got erratic readings on the gauge, it is a cheap gauge in the first place so we decided to use the hand crank i pulled the coil wire off the dizzy but did not block the throttle open
we did not try the oil trick though, we will this weekend if its not too cold
dmurrell,i did not do the 12 volt conversion, so im thinking the timing is off too
Tim Smith, its all good i printed out the section on timing by ear, and we have a nice hill here at the house i can run my rover up
well played with the dizzy, the points gap was off a fair bit, and the vacume advance is not working I dont think, there was no suction when Ludwig was running, rotated the dizzy and it is acting like its catching on a notch or something, I did not put the dizzy in or adjust the points originaly
we advanced the timing and than retarded it and got no result, so we are thinking the vacume advance or aliens
well we got to looking at the dizzy and looked at the picts in the book and apparently my dizzy has jumped timing 180 the vacuum unit is facing the radiator not the bulkhead like it should be so thats on tomorrows agenda is to flip the dizzy back to where it should be
well we got to looking at the dizzy and looked at the picts in the book and apparently my dizzy has jumped timing 180 the vacuum unit is facing the radiator not the bulkhead like it should be so thats on tomorrows agenda is to flip the dizzy back to where it should be
After you do that try painting the truck or washing the windows or just plain surprising the truck. Sorry thats an old kids in the hall reference but do make sure the neighbors kid isn't playing in the engine bay.
The way the distributor sits on the block will tell you nothing about the actual timing on the truck because the rotor can be set in any number of degrees different that what you will see on another truck.
The engine doesn't sound like this, does it?
There should be a you tube video up above. Oh well, here it is.
After you do that try painting the truck or washing the windows or just plain surprising the truck. Sorry thats an old kids in the hall reference but do make sure the neighbors kid isn't playing in the engine bay.
The way the distributor sits on the block will tell you nothing about the actual timing on the truck because the rotor can be set in any number of degrees different that what you will see on another truck.
yes the engine sounds like that under load, but not at idle if it sounded like that constant i would think a bearing
i saw the picts of the dizzy in the green bible
when dad advanced the timing via the rotor, there was no change, but you could tell when he retarded the timing, he said the dizzy was not moving smoothly when he advanced the timing, that it felt like it was catching on a notch or something, dad advanced the timing and than drove ludwig up our hill a bit and he still knocked worse than a diesel maybe he has an identity crisis and thinks he is a diesel
any ideas on how to surprise the truck ? i was thinking about going out there late at night neked and giving him the goat and hitting on the motion sensitive flood lights for a good surprise http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waiting... click link for the explanation of the goat NOT WORK SAFE
yes the engine sounds like that under load, but not at idle if it sounded like that constant i would think a bearing
Damn! I'm starting to think you might have a bad rod making all the noise. You don't hapen to have a camera or camera phone that you can get of the engine sound to post on U-tub, do you?
The timing ping is a definite pinging engine sound not a knock like that video.
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