Alternator conversion

[east high]

I'm in the process of doing the Delco swap and so far so good. It's a negative earth, two wire (10 gauge red, 14 gauge white) generator setup.

I'm stuck with how to deal with the stock regulator. Because the Delco has a built-in regulator, I need advice on how to bypass or wire into the stock regulator in a way that doesn't look cheesy or hacked. Can anyone advise or point me in the right direction?

I should also admit that I'm a total tard when it comes to electrical stuff. Pictures help immensely.

Thanks-

[I Leak Oil]

There's a good tech article on the OVLR web site on this.
Jason T.

[east high]

There's a good tech article on the OVLR web site on this.
Jason T.

This one?

http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.alt_alternators.html

[I Leak Oil]

Yup, that's the one.
Jason T.

[Donnie]

I'm in the process of doing the Delco swap and so far so good. It's a negative earth, two wire (10 gauge red, 14 gauge white) generator setup.

I'm stuck with how to deal with the stock regulator. Because the Delco has a built-in regulator, I need advice on how to bypass or wire into the stock regulator in a way that doesn't look cheesy or hacked. Can anyone advise or point me in the right direction?

I should also admit that I'm a total tard when it comes to electrical stuff. Pictures help immensely.

Thanks-

Jimco in Raymore,Missouri makes a 2 wire adapter for the 10si GM alt. 1 wire to the battery & the other to an ign. source.. Check their site, you may have to get one thru an alt. shop..Don't think they retail...............

[leafsprung]

Its basicly a two wire already. You can wire the charge and sense both to the battery. The warn lamp circuit is nice. I prefer the three wire setup over the single wire/two wire

[Donnie]

Its basicly a two wire already. You can wire the charge and sense both to the battery. The warn lamp circuit is nice. I prefer the three wire setup over the single wire/two wire

Jimco puts a diode in their harness to allow the vehicle to sit for extended periods of time, using a 2 wire direct sense set up will drain the batt as there is a small current drain in the exciter circuit of the alt.....these are cheap to buy..
NOT that any one lets their truck sit for weeks w/o starting it.. just a little trivia , probably useless

[txeagle]

Here's a really good link that describes using 3 wire vs 1 wire.. plus some other good electrical info...

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

pretty good readings

Ben

[leafsprung]

Trucks

I have several rovers all with delcos, most wired with a direct sense. Sometimes one might sit for 2 months while its out of the rotation. Never have any issues starting them (even the diesels) and they maintain 13-14 volts. If you are going to leave it longer than that, I wouldnt leave it hooked up anyway.

[S11A]

Question on the voltage stabilizer (not regulator). I seem to recall that this outputs something like 10.5 volts, so is that what the instruments are expecting? i.e.- if a custom-built wiring harness was made, would a person still want to keep the voltage stabilizer if for no other purpose than to keep the instruments happy? Or is it needed for other reasons? Or would it just be dumped?

[east high]

Its basicly a two wire already. You can wire the charge and sense both to the battery. The warn lamp circuit is nice. I prefer the three wire setup over the single wire/two wire

Hey Ike,

Can you elborate on this? Perhaps snap a pic of one of your setups? It would be much appreciated.


GD-

[leafsprung]

The sense wire basicly determines battery condition and charges accordingly. You can hook the sense lead to the charging circuit as they are both connected to the battery. Hope that makes sense

[east high]

Okay. I've read the lrfaq page on the alternator conversion and things are making more sense to me, but where I'm getting confused (professed electrical dummy) is the sense wire. Is this something that is created when making the swap, because my stock wiring only has the two wires to the dynamo. Big red and little white.

I'm also clueless about the dynamo control box and generator box. I'm guessing these are one in the same. I have a feeling these questions will be answered when my green book arrives, but until then I'm stuck asking questions.

[east high]

Success! I think...

Well, I got it up and running. The instructions over at the lrfaq site weren't exactly for my setup, but I prevailed. However, I have a few follow up questions I'm hoping someone can help me with.

10-gauge red wire goes to the back of the ammeter.
16-gauge red wire goes to the bottom fuse on the fuse box.
16-gauge white goes to directly to charge warning light.

The sense lead goes to the bottom fuse (A1/A2). Does it matter which side of the fuse?

When I start it up there's no activity with the ammeter or warning light, but when the revs go up the light comes on and the needle gets pegged. What up with that?

Lastly, to get power to the ignition/light switch I jumpered power from an open terminal on the back of the ammeter to the A terminal on the switch. Is this okay to do?