Double trouble

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  • Walker
    Low Range
    • Apr 2008
    • 94

    Double trouble

    This is my first posting in a looong time. I'm looking for some guidance (help). I recently overhauled a 2.25 petrol engine with an 8:1 head. Machine work was done by a reputable shop. I reassembled the engine using the Green Bible and the Haynes manual. When completely together, it wouldn't budge. I couldn't get it to rotate without severe strain (on my engine). Pushed it to see if it was just 'tight'. No good. Decided to drain the oil and drop the pan. Coolant had leaked into the oil. None in the cylinders, though. WTH did I do wrong? Thanks for any input. Art
  • thixon
    5th Gear
    • Jul 2007
    • 909

    #2
    What all was done by the machine shop on the bottom end (rotating assembly, block, etc). Need more info.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

    Comment

    • Tim Smith
      Overdrive
      • Nov 2006
      • 1504

      #3
      I'm confused but you did put assembly oil on all your crank, rods, and associated parts right? My first thought was of The Gods Must be Crazy where they could only start the re-ringed 88" with the use of a horse and two men. Or something like that.

      But the coolant really shouldn't be in there. No idea about that one.

      Comment

      • Walker
        Low Range
        • Apr 2008
        • 94

        #4
        A liberal amount of assembly oil was used throughout the engine components. The crak was turned and the rod ends machined to match. Crank was .10 over while cylinders were .20 over. Crank, pulley, etc. were also balanced. I thought we had id'ed all the freeze plugs but could we have missed one that is now leaking? Also a Jeep friend said his oil pump caused his to be tight on a rebuild. I did rebuild mine and the tolerances seemed to be ok. I'm looking at a complete strip down - again.
        Thanks for the response.

        Comment

        • jp-
          5th Gear
          • Oct 2006
          • 981

          #5
          First thing to do is loosen all the rods and mains and check for bearing scoring/marking. If the wrong bearings were used she will not turn. Plastigage the mains and rods to make sure clearances are correct.

          I completely submerge my new pistons in oil before putting them in. A good coat of oil on the rings is essential. I have had tight engines before, but there is always a limit.

          You can remove the oil pump to eliminate it as a possibility. You must first get the engine to rotate freely.
          61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
          66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
          66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
          67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
          88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

          -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

          Comment

          • I Leak Oil
            Overdrive
            • Nov 2006
            • 1796

            #6
            Did the bottom end rotate freely with the head off? Did the crank assembly rotate without the cam and timing chain installed? At what point in the reassembly did you last check it? Could be any number of things that are binding it up. There shouldn't be coolant in the oil that's for sure.
            If you don't remember when you last checked it for rotation then you need to start tearing it down. I'd start with the head, pull the rockers off and see if it rotates, then pull the timing chain, see if it rotates, then the oil pan and pump, see if it rotates, only thing left now is the crank assembly.
            Jason T.
            Jason
            "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

            Comment

            • Walker
              Low Range
              • Apr 2008
              • 94

              #7
              Thanks for the info. I'll be taking it apart this week, weather permitting.

              Comment

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