Parts for the 109s like mine

[daveb]

white post, in VA. supposed to be the S**t...never used em, probably ought to though...not the cheapest, but...they give you a lifetime warranty, so how bad could it be?

http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html

There is someone who does this brass sleeving work on both master & wheel cyls..you can find his name in Hemmings, for what that's worth. not costly either.

[dunerunner]

For that money you can take the old cylinders to a machine shop and have them bore and install a stainless Speedi-Sleeve in them. You'll never have to touch them again. I've got all the old ones out of my 109...Think I'll do just that.....

What is the bore spec.?

but the tank is still an issue. well, everything is an issue..

Welcome to Land Rover Ownership!! The trick is to tackle one problem at a time and resolve it completely. Brakes first, fuel tank second, then each issue at its own pace. If the tank is leaking from the top, I think jp- has your fix! If not, I would try having the tank professionally sealed (brazed) and sealed at a radiator shop. Good Luck!

[chrismccarthy]

fuel tank

i agree, one problem at a time, not enough time though...
the tank is leaking from the bottom, there is an area of 3 inch diameter of surface rust, and probably all the way through. i bought the Eastwood repair kit for the inside, and their repair kit for the surface. but i've used the sealer kits before (Alfas, 'member) and they are very difficult to use. it almost makes spending the extra $$ worth it. as big as the tank is for the 109, it would be VERY DIFFICULT to adequately coat the interior, not to mention the swayback nature. you are essentially trying to coat two different sections. plus the top half's weld is coming undone. so do i have the weld fixed first, then try to rotate and coat in the interior? or what about having the the top half cut off, welded, coat the two halves and then welded together? no that can't work because of the flammability of the coating...see what i mean?

[greenmeanie]

I have just used the POR 15 sealer kit on my 109 tank and it worked well. Yo uneed to follow the directions exactly. That means you get the cleaner, the etcher and the sealer stuff. Lots of rolling the tank around the front yard and pickiing it up shaking it. Between that and the grunting and screaming I think the neighbours think my truck has finally driven me over the edge.

You get a quart of sealer which is more than adequate to coat the inside of the tank. In the low humidity of AZ it took about 1 week to set which gave plenty of opportunity for changing positions to get it into every corner. After draining I was left with about 1/3 of a can.

Seems to work well though. Get any joints that are accessible repaired before sealing. Having said all that the cost of reapairing seams + a sealer kit puts you well on the way to the cost of a new tank. Take your pick.

Cheers
Gregor

[chrismccarthy]

tank you

thanks Gregor for your input, i may call on you through a PM for more help. i bought the Eastwood kit, and it calls for an esther-based cleaner and some other additive to do the job, which it doesn't include. but the cost is not even close, the RN hosts used to have a 109 tank, but last i saw it was close to 600 american. my point is that that is not terrible, if you could find one. anyone know where?

[siiirhd88]

I didn't realize that the 6 cylinder tank was different than the rear mounted station wagon type tank. I bought the Proline rear fuel tank from our host last year, and installed it as a third tank in the wife's 109 regular. It was part number PLH650 and listed for $279.00. It uses the twist in type fuel sender retainer. If you send or post your 6 cylinder tank measurments I could compare tanks.

Bob
'96 Disco SE7
'80 SIII 109
'75 SIII 88 V8
'68 SIIA 109 V8
'6? SIIA 109

[greenmeanie]

From the parts book for the SIIA the fuel tanks for both the 4 cyl & 6 cyl station wagons are the same part - 543164. You should be able to pick up an aftermarket one as someone said previously and it will fit nicely. The change appears to be that they went from a bolted flange mount for the fuel sender to the twist type.

Part of the POR15 kit is a very strong alkali cleaner that removes the fuel varnish and also an acid etcher that helps the sealer to bond to the metal. Witout these steps the sealer is just not going to stick. It's all a big skiddle but if done right it works.

Cheers
Gregor