Fuel Pump Question

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  • roverdave
    Low Range
    • Jun 2008
    • 8

    Fuel Pump Question

    I'm having issues with fuel delivery to the carb on my 67 IIA. Just got a new fuel pump (with sediment bowl). The old fuel pump did not have the sediment bowl. I installed the new pump and can prime it by hand just fine - it delivers fuel all the way to the carb. When I crank the engine though, I get no output. Checked that the lines are tight and no obstructions (fuel tank is new, pickup new, etc..).

    One thing I did notice is that the old fuel pump without the sediment bowl has a 1/4 inch black block between the fuel pump and the engine. There is a fuel pump gasket on both sides. Is this needed for the pump with the sediment bowl? I don't see this adapter block in any of the catalog pictures.

    Any assitance appreciated.

    Dave
  • Daurie
    2nd Gear
    • Nov 2007
    • 251

    #2
    I don't have the book in front of me but I don't recollect any spacer between the block and the pump. Look into getting a service manual because if I remember correctly the engine needs to be turned to a certain point and then the pump put in. Someone with more info on this will chime in im sure.

    good luck.
    '73 SIII 88"
    Turner 8:1 Engine
    NRP Exhaust
    Roverdrive
    RM Parabolics
    OME Shocks
    Warn 8274
    Pangolin4X4 bumper

    Comment

    • graniterover
      1st Gear
      • Oct 2006
      • 167

      #3
      4 or 6 cy?

      A pic would help if you can get one.

      Comment

      • SafeAirOne
        Overdrive
        • Apr 2008
        • 3435

        #4
        Are the cam follower arms (the arms that sticks into the block and ride on the cam) the same length on both pumps?

        Is the cam follower arm riding correctly on the cam?

        I don't know about the series IIA, but looking at the Series III workshop manual, the 2 1/4 fuel pump mounts to a rectangular cover that then mounts to the engine block. Is this the 1/4" thick block to which you refer or is there something additional in your old setup?

        For what it's worth, there is also a note that says that the pictured fuel pump (with sediment bowl) is for petrol engines and that the diesel engine pump is similar except that no filter bowl is required.
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

        0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
        (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

        Comment

        • roverdave
          Low Range
          • Jun 2008
          • 8

          #5
          My Rover is a 4 cyl. I'll pull the new one tonight and take some pics or both the new and old pump as well as the spacer I referred to. Thanks!
          Dave


          Originally posted by SafeAirOne
          Are the cam follower arms (the arms that sticks into the block and ride on the cam) the same length on both pumps?

          Is the cam follower arm riding correctly on the cam?

          I don't know about the series IIA, but looking at the Series III workshop manual, the 2 1/4 fuel pump mounts to a rectangular cover that then mounts to the engine block. Is this the 1/4" thick block to which you refer or is there something additional in your old setup?

          For what it's worth, there is also a note that says that the pictured fuel pump (with sediment bowl) is for petrol engines and that the diesel engine pump is similar except that no filter bowl is required.

          Comment

          • 1961 109 WAGON
            2nd Gear
            • Dec 2006
            • 227

            #6
            ive seen this block, its a black almost plastic type thing.i think its for if the arm the rides on the cam is longer. i have one in my parts bins

            Comment

            • BrianC
              Low Range
              • Nov 2006
              • 5

              #7
              Fuel Pump

              Hi Roverdave, Have you solved the problem yet? If not, there is a metal block with a slot that the fuel pump lever goes through. This metal plate mounts to the side of the block. The fuel pump lever must go under the cam lobe inside the block in order for the pump action to occur. When mounting, you will actually depress the lever downward against the cam lobe when you install the pump assembly. As for the sediment bowl, diesel models prior to suffix K had a sediment bowl. From suffix K onward, there was no bowl. All petrol models have the bowl. As for the plastic block....maybe the P.O. installed an aftermarket pump with a longer lever and added a spacer.....Good Luck. Let us know how it goes. Brian

              Comment

              • roverdave
                Low Range
                • Jun 2008
                • 8

                #8
                It lives

                I did get it working tonight. I took a bunch of pics yesterday of both the new and old pumps but my home computer died (been one of those weeks) and I could not include in the post. I removed the plastic block and bolted the new pump directly to the engine and it worked! I did compare the arms - both looked the same length but the one without the sediment bowl had a different shape arm (more angular vs the smooth curve of the new pump). Once I get the computer back up I'll post the pics for future reference.

                The engine fired up pretty quickly - surprising as I haven't had it running in two years. It has a Zenith Carb - I bought a rebuild kit from RN and rebuilt it before putting in the pump. It runs but it seems to be running very rich - filled my garage with smoke. Next step is to get it tuned. Please chime in if you have any tips! Thanks!



                Originally posted by BrianC
                Hi Roverdave, Have you solved the problem yet? If not, there is a metal block with a slot that the fuel pump lever goes through. This metal plate mounts to the side of the block. The fuel pump lever must go under the cam lobe inside the block in order for the pump action to occur. When mounting, you will actually depress the lever downward against the cam lobe when you install the pump assembly. As for the sediment bowl, diesel models prior to suffix K had a sediment bowl. From suffix K onward, there was no bowl. All petrol models have the bowl. As for the plastic block....maybe the P.O. installed an aftermarket pump with a longer lever and added a spacer.....Good Luck. Let us know how it goes. Brian

                Comment

                • Les Parker
                  RN Sales Team - Super Moderator
                  • May 2006
                  • 2020

                  #9
                  Zenith tuning info



                  Hope this helps !!
                  Les Parker
                  Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
                  Rovers North Inc.

                  Comment

                  • SeriesShorty
                    2nd Gear
                    • Sep 2008
                    • 275

                    #10
                    Correct installation procedure?

                    So I put the manifold all back together, minus the front pipe. Slapped the freshly cleaned Weber 34ICH back on. Installed the shiney new fuel pump w/ sediment bowl. And got nothing.

                    Primed the pump by hand and filled the sediment bowl. Still nothing. Kept primping until I could see it completely fill the inline filter.

                    Yippee! Started right up and ran. Until the filter emptied.

                    Tested the pump and it's not pumping. It will only push fuel when I manually prime the lever.

                    Checked out this thread about the internal lever needing to be under the cam lobe. I checked the Haynes manual and the green bible and I'm not finding any info on how to correctly reinstall the pump.

                    I've bumped the engine a few times thinking I would be able to get the lever under it and no dice.

                    Any help to get this thing installed and working is appreciated!

                    Jen
                    1966 IIa - ex-MOD, ex-FFR, ex-24v
                    1997 Discovery SE7 - I'm empty inside without her

                    Comment

                    • Moose
                      2nd Gear
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 226

                      #11
                      Originally posted by SeriesShorty

                      Checked out this thread about the internal lever needing to be under the cam lobe. I checked the Haynes manual and the green bible and I'm not finding any info on how to correctly reinstall the pump.

                      Jen
                      That could be your problem. The lever on the pump needs to be above the cam because the lever moves upwards to create the pumping action. It's not going to work if the lever is below the cam lobe.

                      Brett
                      Series 3 88 Diesel Soft Top
                      Ex-Mod 110 Tdi

                      Comment

                      • SeriesShorty
                        2nd Gear
                        • Sep 2008
                        • 275

                        #12
                        Over cam lobe

                        Thanks Brett. From what I can tell, it is physically impossible to get the fuel pump arm under the cam anyways. All I know is, I've taken this thing on and off about 5 times now and I'm really frustrated. It's got allen bolts so it's very tedious turning that little allen wrench over and over and...I digress.

                        I even reinstalled the old pump, and now it isn't working either.

                        The new pump will definately pull fuel when I prime it manually, so why isn't the darn thing supplying fuel after it's been primed?

                        Installation seems so straight forward that I don't know what I could be missing...
                        1966 IIa - ex-MOD, ex-FFR, ex-24v
                        1997 Discovery SE7 - I'm empty inside without her

                        Comment

                        • rovers2a
                          Low Range
                          • Sep 2008
                          • 51

                          #13
                          clean the tank. remove the fuel pick up tube. check for the screen on the bottom of the pick up its soldered on there. clean the 90 degree brass elbow on the pick up. check your fuel lines and or blow compressed air though back to the tank, kind of reverse flush, you will hear the bubles at the tank. i just went through all this crap with a 88 diesel. vehicle would run fine then die off. fuel starvation. turns out to be debris clogging the 90 degree brass elbow on top of the tank. also the fuel line was plugged with gritty black stuff.

                          Comment

                          • rovers2a
                            Low Range
                            • Sep 2008
                            • 51

                            #14
                            also check the fuel line connection on top of the tank. it seems to me that the system is drawwing air from some where. sometimes the steel pick up tube peforates half way up. then you start drawing air. check for peforations in the line to the fuel pump. maybe chaffing somewhere and now there might be a hole. you could also try running fresh fuel line straight into a 1 gallon fuel can. this will then rule out any part of the system prior to the fuel pump.

                            Comment

                            • rovers2a
                              Low Range
                              • Sep 2008
                              • 51

                              #15
                              are there twin tanks? its a MOD landy right? if it has twin tanks check the cross over valve is functioning properly.

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