Series III Body Work

[pyounts]

Does anyone know of anyone experienced in LR Series body work in NC? Preferably between Charlotte and Greensboro, NC.

[thixon]

What kind of body work? Most body shops should be able to handle anything you throw at them, but you might not want to pay what they'll ask to do it.

[pyounts]

I admit I'm new to these vehicles, but in reading about the etching process, dealing with the pop rivets and the annealing - it just seemed to me you would want someone who had dealt with these types of vehicles before. The SIII I have was painted befoe I got it, but there are a few cracks where it looks like they did something wrong.

[thixon]

When you say cracks, do you mean in the aluminum body panels? Or, do you mean cracks in the paint surface. If you mean cracks in the aluminum body panels, send me some photos. Depending on where/how big/etc. you might just be better off buying a new panel.

[pyounts]

No, it is just in the paint surface. But the color is a really glossy hunter green that shows every dent in the body. Most panels I could live with just fine, but the drivers door fits poorly and would probably need replacing. I think it has just been slammed shut so many times that it no longer matches the slight curve of the body. For some reason both side doors have waves in the top metal above the window. I was thinking of going back to the original light blue I see in the bed and under the hood.

[thixon]

Some of what you're describing sounds pretty normal. You're right about the dark color. It will show every imperfection in the body. I always laugh when I see black defenders. Marine blue is a better color all around on a rover if small imperfections bug you. It definately won't show dings and dents off as much.

If you're dead set on painting it, and you really want it to look good, then I'd just buy new door bottoms before you take it to the paint shop. In the grand scheme of things, they are'nt that expensive (at least not when compared to having the whole truck painted at a shop). Not knowing you're budget, your abilities, or your tastes, its tough for me to make a really good recomedation to you. It just isn't worth making it perfect, unless you have deep pockets, and don't care how much you sink into it. Are you willing to do some dissasembly before taking to the painter?

[pyounts]

Yeah, I don't mind getting it ready for them. I just want to make sure they can do the job.

[SafeAirOne]

Hmmm. It almost looks like the sort of mis-alignment where you could make an "adjustment" by separating the door halves and gently pulling on the bottom of the door at the same time you're pushing on the glav capstrip on the top. Of course, this is what I'd do on my blue-collar rover. If you have a white-collar rover, you might buy a new door, have it professionally installed, and get it painted--It all depends on your wants, needs and wallet thickness.

[Leslie]

As the hinges don't have a lot of play, it looks like your bulkhead might be leaning back a hair...

Handle and key cylinder didn't get masked when sprayed.....


You know, I'd be half-tempted to say, leave it alone, let the paint age and patina out, and not worry about it.....

[pyounts]

I really think they cut some corners on the paint job. The door really drives me crazy though. There is some play in the latch on it too and it's got a nice rattle when you drive it.

[BellaCoola]

You should be able to adjust the striker plate as there is a fair amount of forward and back movement. Simple to do, just loosen the two bolts, close the door to get it snug, then tighten the bolts up.

Sometimes it may be easier if you have a helper push on the door as you tighten up the striker plate to ensure a snug, rattle free fit.

As far as the paint goes, unless you plan on only running it on the road, wait until you have some fun offroading before painting. I'd also recomend re-galvanizing the steel bits if you are going for a resto.

Cheers

[pyounts]

Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot. I really have no idea how you would go about re-galvanizing the steel parts though. Is that something that you would have to send away to get done?

[Leslie]

Well..... most people take stuff to a galvanizer, so yeah, if you don't have one close by, you'd have to send it off.... I'd be more comfortable delivering it in person, but....

I suppose you *could* make a heated tank, buy a lot of zinc and do it yourself, but, it'd be cheaper by far to have it done, I think.

[thixon]

I suppose you *could* make a heated tank, buy a lot of zinc and do it yourself, but, it'd be cheaper by far to have it done, I think.

As cool as it would sound to say "hey, I did the regalv myself" I just can't help wondering what I'd do with that big leftover chunk of zinc. Plus, my wife would kill me (or divorce me, which would be worse than death).

[greenmeanie]

As cool as it would sound to say "hey, I did the regalv myself" I just can't help wondering what I'd do with that big leftover chunk of zinc. Plus, my wife would kill me (or divorce me, which would be worse than death).

How about a sacrificial anode for every steel thing you own. I can see it tucked away under a bench in the garage with ground straps to cars, bikes, boats, tool chest, cutlery drawer, hot water tank, bed frames um.....nothing in your house will ever rust again. Your wife will be happy because the time you would have spent rust proofing is now free for other projects on the list.

Back home in Glasgow I lived along the road from a retired, widowed metalurgist who had a lathe down the center of what had been the dining room and a metal furnace in the living room. He loved the challenge of making special tools for us to work on the vehicles. Casting and heat treats were no problem. I was quite suprised that he never burned the place to the ground.

Cheers
Gregor