2.5 Diesel Timing Pins

[SafeAirOne]

Well--after reading a post on another site, I've decided to replace the timing belt on my 2.5 NA diesel--I've been driving on borrowed time long enough.

Anyone know where I can get the required timing pins (one for the flywheel (p/n LST 107) and one for the injector pump (p/n 18G 1458))?

Better yet, if anyone has these items, I'd be glad to send you a decent deposit if you'd be willing to lend them to me for a weekend. Otherwise, I'd be looking for a source to buy just those 2 pins (not a whole 2.5/200Tdi/300Tdi timing toolkit).

Thanks!

[Moose]

To change the timing belt, you only need one pin to lock the flywheel. You can bodge (improvise) a locking pin by accurately drilling a hole though the centre of a spare flywheel housing blanking plug to accept a 3/16 inch twist drill.

The second pin is for setting the injection pump timing, which shouldn't be disturbed by a belt change.

I have the complete timing tool kit. I could lend you the 2.5 NA locking pin (and timing pin) as long as I get them back in a timely maner.

I've been meaning to ask you for some time now, how do you like the 2.5 diesel in your 109? I have a 2.5 NA that came out of my 110 that hasn't sold yet and I am thinking about stuffing it into my Series 3 88. Is your's mated up to a series gearbox? Any idea on the mileage you are getting?

Brett

[SafeAirOne]

Thanks, Brett. Yesterday I did a web search for "18G1458" (the LR tool number) and came across this french site explaining, in french, how to improvise the pump timing pin:
http://www.landroverfaq.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&p=27415

I thank you for your generosity, but it would appear that I now have the info I need to make the pin(s)---All for the cost of a trip to the hardware store and 2 plugs. The only thing I was lacking was the drill size for the flywheel pin, which you have provided in your post--Thanks!

I wasn't positive, but I didn't think I'd need the pump timing pin, I just wanted to have it in case something went terribly wrong in the belt replacement process.

As for the 2.5 in the 109:

Fuel economy is decent considering it's dragging around a 5300lb 109 (~20mpg last time I checked).

At a whopping 6.5. horsepower (brand new), the power is a less than I'd like for a 109, but it works well enough to suit my needs. I avoid highways, whenever possible. I'm absolutely hated by other drivers when I attempt to merge onto the highway when the on ramp is uphill. It's not too much better when the ramp is level or downhill. For me, overtaking another vehicle on a 2-lane road is impossible (especially in a RHD rover) with the 2.5.

I think that the 2.5NA is more compatible with an 88 than a 109. One of the english Rover websites lists the 0-60 times for different vehicle/engine combos and the 2.5 on a 109 station wagon was the worst combo.

You'll probably get better performance out of it in an 88, but don't expect to burn rubber as you accelerate--There's just no get-up-and-go available. What you will get is incredible reliability and simplicity in an engine.

As far as the install goes, it is ALMOST a bolt-in replacement, providing that you have a 4-cyl transmission. Mine was a 6-cylinder and I had to change to a 4cyl bellhousing (different bolt positions) and relocate the engine mounts. My 109 is a right-hand drive, so it was easy for me to just fashion a connector to go from the accelerator pedal arm to the injector pump, which is located on the right side of the 2.5. You'll have to work out how to do this on a RHD rover. You'll have to plumb a fuel return line to the fuel tank. Other than that, it needs 2 power wires: one for the fuel shutoff solenoid on the injector pump (use the white wire that used to go to the coil primary circuit) and a huge wire to power the heater plugs. I used the switch for the cold start (choke) light to power a relay that truns the heater plugs on and off. In other words, when I pull the choke knob, the switch on the choke cable truns on the "cold start" light as well as activates the relay, which sends juice to the heater plugs.

If you're still awake after reading this, thanks again for the offer to let me borrow your timing pin. I'm just glad I won't be needing to borrow it after all.

[junkyddog11]

Brett, my SIIA soft top with the 2.5NA is by far my favorite rig. It is bolted to the standard IIA tranny and has a Fairy OD. Does hwy speeds on 33"s, although will get down to 60mph on long grades. Mileage is in the low 20's. Goes like a sportcar in comparison to a D90 with the same motor.

It is loud, and vibrates a little around town and allot at idle......smells funny too.....

Fitting is easy with only a simple motor mount to build for the passenger side. Can even leave the battery under the bonnet, and use the oil bath filter, which I do and it is nice as it actually helps keep the noise down a little.

[Moose]

Mark, thank for the info. My 110 had the 2.5 NA in it so I can relate to what you say. The 110 weighs in at 4305 lbs, so seems a little lighter then your 109. The engine was mated to a R380 5-speed with a low geared transfer box. It would accelerate OK but nothing to brag about. I was wondering how the engine would work with a Series gearbox. My 88 would be considerably lighter then your 109 so I guess it would be a pretty good match.

I have read about the install and know it is all pretty straight forward with only a few small mods to do. I am wavering on selling my 88, but if I keep it, I think I'll go for this engine swap.

Matt, all go info too. I was under the impression the battery needed to be moved out of the engine compartment and usually stuffed under the pass seat. Well, I have a second tank under there so I was a little worried about that. One thing I have wondered about is the exhaust. Do you need to use a larger bore system with the diesel? And is it possible to route it up out of the way like the 2.25 system?

If I go for this swap, I will have more questions for you two for sure.

Thanks
Brett

[SafeAirOne]

One thing I have wondered about is the exhaust. Do you need to use a larger bore system with the diesel? And is it possible to route it up out of the way like the 2.25 system?

I used most of the exhaust system that was originally attached to the 2.6. It uses 2" pipe as I recall. The only difference is that the 2.5 exhaust gets routed on the inside of the chassis rails in the engine bay and not out through the Left-hand wheelwell like the original 2.6 system. The only item I had to have custom made was the straight downpipe that attaches to the exhaust manifold. I welded a pre-made 90 degree bend to the downpipe and welded that to the original exhaust system below the left front seat.

I had to relocate my battery tray a bit due to interference. Raised it, if memory serves...

I originally used the defender air filter that came with the engine, ($45 replacement filter elements) but ended up changing it to an air filter assembly from a 91 toyota car ($9 elements available at Wal-Mart). I spent hours combing the junk yard looking for a filter box with the right size air outlet hole and this one works perfectly.

[SafeAirOne]

My 110 had the 2.5 NA in it so I can relate to what you say. The 110 weighs in at 4305 lbs

I think I got my [Rover's] weight wrong--It's 1000lbs off. Last time I went to the dump, my generally empty Rover weighed in at 4280 including a large driver (me), a 65 lb roof rack, and NATO steel wheels. I thought 5000+lbs semed a little off....

...Still an 88 weighs in at about 1000 less than that at 3281lbs.

[Moose]

I thought your numbers seemed a bit high but who am I to tell you what your truck weighs.

Yeah, my 88 with soft top must come in quite a bit less then that, so should perform nicely with a 2.5 NA

Brett

[junkyddog11]

Brett, I have also have dual tanks so I left the battery in the stock location. Seem to remember some very minor modification that had to be made, but can't remember what it was (so it couldn't have been bed eh?) I also used the stock oil bath filter and the 2.25 exhaust and all runs very well. I'll be putting an NRP (stock 2.25 pertrol version) on one soon and will see if that makes any difference.

[Moose]

Matt, that is interesting you were able to use the stock exhaust. The system on my110 with the 2.5 NA was a larger dia. But that's good to know. Did you also use the Series rad? I understand you just need to replace the 2.5 thermostat housing with the 2.25 unit and then the top rad hose lines right up.

Brett

[junkyddog11]

Brett,

If I had another exhaust I'd probably go bigger, but this one had a 2.25 in it and I thought it would be close enough....plus I don't ever seem to have time to work on my own junk so quick and easy seems to be the way. The smaller dia. doesn't seem to detract from performance........although that may be hard to tell. I'll know in a couple of weeks when the NRP system shows up.

Your correct with the thermostat housing. I have been using the stock Series radiator with no issues at all.

[Moose]

OK Matt or Mark, what did you do about the oil cooler on the 2.5 when using the Series rad? Did you go with a separate cooler or just remove the oil lines and cooler bits at the oil filter housing and run the engine without?

Brett

[SafeAirOne]

OK Matt or Mark, what did you do about the oil cooler on the 2.5 when using the Series rad? Did you go with a separate cooler or just remove the oil lines and cooler bits at the oil filter housing and run the engine without?

Brett

Mine was a Brit military engine, and I just used the original oil cooler. I fabricated a simple bracket for it and bolted it to the "breakfast" in front of the radiator. I had a local hydraylic shop fabricate the lines. I didn't have the time to source somebody cheaper, and ended up paying...$80+ dollars for the 2 custom lines! Those lines have been leaky ever since to boot. I'll try to get a photo of my setup.

[junkyddog11]

Mine has no oil cooler "it" being the civvy version.

[SafeAirOne]

Oil Cooler Photos

Here's how I mounted my cooler. The mount on the right side of the picture is obvious. The one on the left is a piece of steel with a 90 degree bend . One flat of the bend is attached to the side of the radiator support panel and the other to the oil cooler bracket (not clearly shown).