Brake Fluid Loss - Identify the culprit?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • NC Rover
    2nd Gear
    • Dec 2007
    • 288

    Brake Fluid Loss - Identify the culprit?

    Here is where I am losing my brake fluid. I know my rover is a hybrid so I'm not sure what to ask. So I took pictures of the problem area.

    Passenger-side. Where can I find a new one of these and how much do they run? I'm tired of bleeding the brakes every week or two. This is the only place I am losing brake fluid.

    thanks!
    Nick





    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|
  • thixon
    5th Gear
    • Jul 2007
    • 909

    #2
    I can't tell from the photos. Is it leaking from one of the fittings? Or, is it leaking from the center section (there appears to be a seam there)?
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

    Comment

    • NC Rover
      2nd Gear
      • Dec 2007
      • 288

      #3
      I can't tell where its coming from exactly. It seems as if it is coming from the fittings. Either way, what is this particular part called? Located right under the original airbox, passenger side.
      1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

      Comment

      • greenmeanie
        Overdrive
        • Oct 2006
        • 1358

        #4
        AS it's a hybrid I couldn't give you a part #. In that it has only an inlet and an output it is not a line splitting junction. As there is no electric connection it is not a brake switch or brake failure indicator.

        My guess is that as you have coiler axles you have discs up front and drums on the rear of your truck. If that is the case and they used a series master cylinder then you need a check valave to retain soem residual pressure in the rear brake lines to hold the shoes out near the drums. My thoght is that is what is leaking.

        IF you want a replacement I would look in the Summit, Jegs oe even at Willwood as they all make pretty cheap parts for this purpose. Before I did that, though, I would disconnect those brake lines (Yay -time to bleed it again!) and check the condition of the flares. You might find they are US fittigns in a British part or vice versa and therefore will never seal.

        Cheers
        Gregor

        Comment

        • NC Rover
          2nd Gear
          • Dec 2007
          • 288

          #5
          Originally posted by greenmeanie
          AS it's a hybrid I couldn't give you a part #. In that it has only an inlet and an output it is not a line splitting junction. As there is no electric connection it is not a brake switch or brake failure indicator.

          My guess is that as you have coiler axles you have discs up front and drums on the rear of your truck. If that is the case and they used a series master cylinder then you need a check valave to retain soem residual pressure in the rear brake lines to hold the shoes out near the drums. My thoght is that is what is leaking.

          IF you want a replacement I would look in the Summit, Jegs oe even at Willwood as they all make pretty cheap parts for this purpose. Before I did that, though, I would disconnect those brake lines (Yay -time to bleed it again!) and check the condition of the flares. You might find they are US fittigns in a British part or vice versa and therefore will never seal.

          Cheers
          Gregor
          Gregor,

          Thank you so much for the response. I was guessing it was some type of brake booster for the rear. You are correct in that this particular rover has disc front brakes and drum rears. Its hard to tell where this particular part is leaking from as the whole thing is saturated but not dripping. Whats one more brake bleeding session. I will check out summit.

          thanks again
          1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

          Comment

          • SafeAirOne
            Overdrive
            • Apr 2008
            • 3435

            #6
            Originally posted by NC Rover
            I was guessing it was some type of brake booster for the rear.
            That's what it looks like to me--some sort of device that uses a small piston area & cylinder on one end and a larger piston area & cylinder on the other. Depending on which side is the inlet, you will either increase or decrease line pressure/ fluid volume through the outlet. Sort of a poor-man's proportioning valve. Just a WAG.
            --Mark

            1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

            0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
            (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

            Comment

            • greenmeanie
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1358

              #7
              Ah yes Nick,
              Just to hijack the thread to make you jealous I picked this up on ebay to go into my NADA 6 cyl build. Part number is 579168.

              Cheers
              Gregor

              Comment

              • Rineheitzgabot
                4th Gear
                • Jun 2008
                • 386

                #8
                I would clean the hell out of the area surrounding the valve, and the valve itself with degreaser, then watch to see EXACTLY where the leak is coming from. I say this because I think Gregor might be on to something when he speaks of the incompatible fittings-theory he had.

                I work for a company that builds heavy equipment. Hydraulics is our forte', and it is amazing how many different standards there are in the way of hydraulic and pneumatic fittings (NPT, SAE, JIC 37 degree). Not sure, but I think these are all only American standards (which reinforces Gregor's theory). If the complete ensemble (series of fittings or points of termination) are not compatible, they will leak.
                "I can't believe I'm sitting here, completely surrounded by no beer!" -Onslow

                Comment

                • NC Rover
                  2nd Gear
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 288

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Rineheitzgabot
                  I would clean the hell out of the area surrounding the valve, and the valve itself with degreaser, then watch to see EXACTLY where the leak is coming from. I say this because I think Gregor might be on to something when he speaks of the incompatible fittings-theory he had.

                  I work for a company that builds heavy equipment. Hydraulics is our forte', and it is amazing how many different standards there are in the way of hydraulic and pneumatic fittings (NPT, SAE, JIC 37 degree). Not sure, but I think these are all only American standards (which reinforces Gregor's theory). If the complete ensemble (series of fittings or points of termination) are not compatible, they will leak.
                  I will try to clean the area up the best i can and try to pinpoint the leak. It only started leaking recently and its apparently worked fine for the last 4 years.

                  I believe it was a quick solution to supplying the rear drums with a little more pressure.
                  1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

                  Comment

                  • SafeAirOne
                    Overdrive
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 3435

                    #10
                    Finally got around to researching it...I think you have a "brake pressure mulitplier". See:



                    Not EXACTLY the same as yours but its close!
                    --Mark

                    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

                    Comment

                    • Jim-ME
                      Overdrive
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 1379

                      #11
                      Where can one purchase english (compatible) brake fittings without having to buy prebuilt lines?
                      Jim

                      Comment

                      • greenmeanie
                        Overdrive
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 1358

                        #12

                        Comment

                        • Jim-ME
                          Overdrive
                          • Oct 2006
                          • 1379

                          #13
                          Now to sound totally stupid which ones do I want for an 88?
                          Jim

                          Comment

                          • greenmeanie
                            Overdrive
                            • Oct 2006
                            • 1358

                            #14
                            Not trying to be smart here but that all depends on what line your working on.

                            The two bits of info you need are the tube dia and the thread size. The threads are just stock imperial so it's not difficult to match them.

                            Gregor

                            Comment

                            • siiirhd88
                              3rd Gear
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 369

                              #15
                              Our somewhat nearby Advance Auto chain store here in Pa. carries the British spec lines. I usually buy the 12 inch long ones if I need a fitting or two. A British car guy works at the store, so maybe that is why they carry the lines..... They must be in their system, however.

                              Bob

                              Comment

                              Working...