How can i achieve getting this paint color for my series III?

[Momo]

yes, you have to use etching primer or the paint will flake

[LH Drive]

test panel

I would find a new piece of flat sheet aluminum (about 1x3 ft ) and bend a section about 8 inches from the top so it would resemble the side curve of a Series wing. Wet sand the bare aluminum with 800 grit to knock off the shine but not make deep scratches. Etch prime/Paint with one stage automotive paint or just shoot basecoat and not clear . Let the paint cure then using 1200 grit, wet sand the areas to look weathered back down to metal, feather off the areas with 1500 grit. Finish off the panel by block sanding with 2000 grit to knock the shine if you go with single stage paint. This might come close to what you are looking for. On the actual Series Rover body you might not want to block sand but use a padded sanding pad to get into all those dents.
I once painted the hood of my truck with black basecoat paint and did'nt clear coat to acheive a flat black finish. It has held up since then and it's been over 6 years.

[jp-]

Ummm...

I use dawn to wash my regular cars. Is that bad?

It cuts the grease.

[LH Drive]

test panel

Well since i'm going to remove the original paint on my Series and respray. I tried to sand the original paint off and make it look weathered. No chance. I tried 600 grit, I knew it would be to harsh, it was. On a different spot I tried 800 grit,,nope,,same effect. Tried 1000, 1200, had better luck with 1500 but the problem I see is getting an even faded look.
Even if you stripped to bare aluminum and just thin the paint down and try to spray a faded pattern towards the weathered area. You still need an etching primer or the paint will not bond to the alloy.
Fade in the primer first, then fade the paint second would look weird. The only thing I can think is to apply a full paint job in a close to fadded color you want. Then spray a thinned out wide pattern silver basecoat on the larger areas where normal wear would be. On smaller areas I would use an airbrush. From a distance, I don't think you would be able to tell you airbrushed silver paint on and it would do the trick. But up close is another story.

[Momo]

It's bad if you want to preserve any waxing you've done, and bad if you want shiny paint. It cuts the grease but it also cuts the paint. But most Series owners don't care about that stuff.

I like my Rovers to be shiny and clean, and I like to keep a good smooth coat of wax on them. It cuts down on pinstripes from all the creosote and chapparal out here in California. Even with plenty of off road duty, my 13 year old paint on the 109 still looks pretty nice.

[BobJones]

I know that feeling of wanting the aged look. I'm painting my 59 SER II. I'm using BASF limco 3 paint, basic, cheap, and easy to use. Now that I can see the result, I'm happy with the new paint. Looks great. Plus, I think it may be fun to age with the paint, naturally.

[ecodx123]

what is the color on your rover?

[gudjeon]

C'mon. You know you want new paint. I did mine 5 years ago and with little to no washing, the patina soon sets in. I used a DuPont Centuari Enamel and 5 years on now, it looks like its old. That and I use it every day and wear spots wear back. A patina that is gotten dishonestly is not patina at all.

[TJR]

Wow.. The top panel really faded? BTW, That's one nice looking SerI !

[gudjeon]

No, our sun is not THAT strong. I painted the top with an industrial marine enamel along with the rims as it is tough as nails and covers up all the pine striping.