Removing Steering Wheel - I'm stuck (pics)

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  • NC Rover
    2nd Gear
    • Dec 2007
    • 288

    Removing Steering Wheel - I'm stuck (pics)

    So I'm trying to get the bearing out of the steering shaft in order to get some WD or grease down into the shaft to resolve a squeaking issue. I'm stuck.

    I removed the ring involving the horn. Now I'm down to the shaft itself and an outer sheath that holds the bearing. Can anyone direct me on getting this bearing out? I've tried taking a screw driver and lightly hammering the edge of the sheath but that doesn't seem to want to budge so I'm not going to force it.

    Any advice is appreciated.

    thanks!





    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|
  • NC Rover
    2nd Gear
    • Dec 2007
    • 288

    #2
    Anyone? Does it pry out? Does the whole steering shaft have to be removed? I have to get some lube to this terrible squeak coming from inside the steering shaft....about an inch or two below this bearing pictured above.

    Is there no easy way to get the bearing out of the way? I'm sure this is a really stupid question but I'm still a bit new to rovers and have never tackled this problem.
    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

    Comment

    • jp-
      5th Gear
      • Oct 2006
      • 981

      #3
      That bearing comes out easy sometimes, and sometimes not. I think you are probably going to have to remove the shaft and use a long rod to tap it out from the other end. I know this is a pain, but sometimes they will not pry out. The only other thing you might try, is to start prying on it with a screwdriver while at the same time, you try to rock the shaft back and forth. Then move the screwdriver 180deg and try again, repeating this process several times.
      61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
      66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
      66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
      67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
      88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

      -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

      Comment

      • NC Rover
        2nd Gear
        • Dec 2007
        • 288

        #4
        Originally posted by jp-
        That bearing comes out easy sometimes, and sometimes not. I think you are probably going to have to remove the shaft and use a long rod to tap it out from the other end. I know this is a pain, but sometimes they will not pry out. The only other thing you might try, is to start prying on it with a screwdriver while at the same time, you try to rock the shaft back and forth. Then move the screwdriver 180deg and try again, repeating this process several times.
        Thanks. I will give this a shot and see if I can get that to work first.
        1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

        Comment

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