Making a steering correction

[SafeAirOne]

Mark, are you implying that I take the rod off to put it in a vice?

Not unless it's a last resort. I was just relating what I have had to do in the past in extreme cases.

You should be able to free up the ends with the rods mounted on the vehicle. It'll just takes a bit of work because you're fighting the resistance BOTH ball joint ends at the same time. Also, some of the force you put on the rod will be taken up by the springy twisting tendency in the rod. If the ball joint ends are REALLY rusted, it may be beneficial to use 2 pipe wrenches simultaneously, one on each end of the rod, a bit inboard of the threaded sections. Once they initially break free, you should be able to squirt more oil in the slot on the rod and they'll free right up, usually.

If they're so bad that the balls joints break during this procedure, you should probably have them replaced anyway. This is also the point where the vise comes in.

[Rosie]

The tie rod ends are new. I guess that is why we did not want to crank harshly to get the rod to move. When turning on the rod, the tie rod ends get jambed against the rubber parts. I am guessing that if you use the two pipe wrenches the way you describe, the tie rod ends are going to break and grease will expell from them. Do you think I should just buy two new tie rod ends and then go ahead and yank on the rod, so that if they do break, I have new ones to replace?

[Rosie]

Another question on the steering box!
The outer nut, the small one, shaped like a square (which I find odd) is not moving. I don't want to strip it or break it, and have used all kinds of grease substances to try to loosen it.
Got any suggestions?
Not sure whether to use a torch, as there is so much grease on it, don't want to start a fire. Is my only choice to use heat? How likely is it that it will break under more pressure to try to turn it? If it does break, have I screwed up the steering box?
As they are not available anymore, I really don't want to wreck it, but I sure do want to be able to tighten that inner nut a bit more to correct this steering problem. Right now I cannot tighten that inner nut anymore because I cannot get the outer nut to move.
Thanks!

[SafeAirOne]

Rosie,

If you intend to save the current ball joints, you'll probably have to do all the prep work greenmeanie detailed with getting the crud off the threaded area (including in the area you can see through the slot cut in the ends of the rod) and lubricating heavily with penetrating oil. I have never had much success at this, but you can try to hold the base of the ball joint where the threaded portion meets the socket with a suitable wrench while you turn the rod with a pipe wrench. Heat on the end of the rod (not the joint) helps also.

Alternatively, you could just let the folks at the alignment shop worry about this if you're having someone align it anyway. They do this sort of thing day in and day out and have the tools and techniques to do it.

As for the steering box...The outer jam nut must be backed off enough that you can maintain a gap between the nut and the side of the steering box while you're adjusting it. If the nut is jammed against the side of the box, you will not be able to run the inner portion into the steering box any further.

I'm sure SOMEBODY on this board can tell you whether you can back the adjuster all the way out to remove it and clean it up/free the jam nut then reinstall it without messing up the innards of the steering box. I DON'T KNOW IF YOU CAN OR NOT. Anyone??

[daveb]

not sure but I think the locknut on the steering box adjuster may be a left-hand thread. can't recall now. I once had to use a cheater to free one of mine. Do not tighten the adjuster nut too much or you will wreck the box. Try getting it finger tight first and see how you like it there. Any binding will eventually wreck the box.

for the tie rods, apply lots of heat using MAPP gas or better in the threaded area. then spray some PB blaster into the splits @ the ends of the tie-rods. Smack the threaded portion good with a hammer while holding another hammer or a body anvil on the backside. Use a pipe wrench to rotate the rod.

If it doesn't work on the car you will have to free them up off the car using a vice/anvil etc. No need to break the threaded portion of the tie rod end, even the most stubborn ones will eventually come out using enough brute force and the above method(s).


edit: thanks brett guess it is definitely not LH thread. thinking about it a little that would actually not even be possible...

Another question on the steering box!
The outer nut, the small one, shaped like a square (which I find odd) is not moving. I don't want to strip it or break it, and have used all kinds of grease substances to try to loosen it.
Got any suggestions?
Not sure whether to use a torch, as there is so much grease on it, don't want to start a fire. Is my only choice to use heat? How likely is it that it will break under more pressure to try to turn it? If it does break, have I screwed up the steering box?
As they are not available anymore, I really don't want to wreck it, but I sure do want to be able to tighten that inner nut a bit more to correct this steering problem. Right now I cannot tighten that inner nut anymore because I cannot get the outer nut to move.
Thanks!

[Moose]

I'm sure SOMEBODY on this board can tell you whether you can back the adjuster all the way out to remove it and clean it up/free the jam nut then reinstall it without messing up the innards of the steering box. I DON'T KNOW IF YOU CAN OR NOT. Anyone??

If the Series 2a steering box internals are the same as the Series 3, then yes you can remove the adjuster and lock nut without messing things up. I have the adjuster out of a spare Series 3 box now trying to free it up. The adjuster and nut are incredibly boring. I thought there would be more to it. Should have at least had a pointy end.



Brett

[Jim-ME]

Rosie,
Specifically from the workshop manual toe-in should be 3/64ths to 3/32nds of an inch.
Jim

[Rosie]

Thanks everyone!
Brett that sure is a clean adjuster and lock nut! Looks like gold plated!!!
I am still too nervous about trying to move a lock nut that will not move. Haven't tried heating it yet, but I have to convince my husband that we are not going to burn up the entire vehicle!! He is very cautious about putting fire on these lubricants.

[SafeAirOne]

Haven't tried heating it yet, but I have to convince my husband that we are not going to burn up the entire vehicle!! He is very cautious about putting fire on these lubricants.

Carburettor cleaner will remove the gunk.

[daveb]

I just put the box end of a combination wrench over the nut. then I put another box wrench into the open end of the combination wrench and carefully levered on that. it came loose right away using that method.

also you might want to open the fill plug of the steering box and see if there is anything in it.

Thanks everyone!
Brett that sure is a clean adjuster and lock nut! Looks like gold plated!!!
I am still too nervous about trying to move a lock nut that will not move. Haven't tried heating it yet, but I have to convince my husband that we are not going to burn up the entire vehicle!! He is very cautious about putting fire on these lubricants.

[greenmeanie]

Rosie,
You can remove the adjuster nut with no ill effects on the box. All it does is press on the side of the pivot arm to remove excess play.

As far as removing that lock nut you need to first get it as clean as possible with a wire bruch and your preferred wonder chemical. After that there it is a matter of spinning it. Most people over torque them making freeing it off a pig. They are fairly large nuts so rounding them takes some effort.

It is a standard RH thread so lefty loosy, righty tighty applies. This may be too basic but most people I know still have to stop and think about that on occasion.

Methods for removal are:
Use a six sided spanner or socket as they are far less prone to rounding corners. Buy a quality tool as they invariably fit better which reduces the chances of rounding. You can soak it in a good penetrating oil or, I think someone here brought this one, heat it up and apply bees wax which gets sucked into the thread as it cools.

The longer the spanner or drive the better as it increases the moment arm giving you more control. I sometimes find that giving end of the spanner a sharp tap with a soft faced hammer shocks the nut loose.

Or, if you have the kit, just hit it with an impact gun.

I've never failed to get a nut loose on a LR - it just takes the right combination of the right tool, technique and getting in touch with your innner cro magnon.

Gregor

[Rosie]

getting in touch with your innner cro magnon.

Gregor

You mean like the zen of LR repair?
I am a long way away from that...
Thanks everyone!
I am printing out all these notes for the weekend Rover abuses on my husband! (He secretly likes my Rover, but wonders if what he calls my "latest money pit" will ever get on the road! Wait 'til I prove him wrong!!)

[Rosie]

Finally I got my steering corrected!!! I found a very cool mechanic in his 70's that worked on these things in the marines! It took him 10 minutes to do what I have been fretting over!!! And he lives 2 miles from me!!! How cool is that!
It was a matter of correcting the adjustment on the steering box. I was trying to do it with the front end on the ground. He told me that the front end has to be elevated to take the pressure off it so that the turn can be made. I guess I missed that part of the instructions!

[Rosie]

Just to let you all know, I finally got my alignment done! After messing around with it myself, thought it better to get it done at the shop set up with the right equipment.
It is good I did because he had to pound on my steering column to get it to line up....not sure what that was all about, but wow, what a difference!!! It was all whacked out of shape!! Better driving now!! Actually feels like the steering wheel is connected to the front wheels!!
Get your alignment done if you are thinking about it, because it makes a huge difference in the steering!

[Moose]

Glad to hear you have your steering woes sorted Rose. Make a world of difference when everything is dialed in properly.

You have it licensed for the road yet?

Brett