Rear Spring Replacement

[SeriesCanuck]

Hi folks,

I am about to tackle the job of replacing the sagging rear (original) springs with new parabolics. I don't think the job will be too difficult but I was wondering if anybody has any great advice to make it smoother.

I heard the term "setting up the springs" etc......is there something to this?

Cheers,
Thom

[scott]

my rear parabolics went pretty smooth. the front were a bear. had to use a resipricating saw to cut bolts, hammer to beat on things and a torch to melt out old ruber bushings. good luck

[rwollschlager]

i replaced the front and rear springs last winter throughout my christmas break. i didnt upgrade to parabolic springs but some things should be the same. For example i definatly reccomend new u-bolts, new bushings, and new spring bolts., so you can simply cut off the old u-bolts The shackles should be fine if they are not stripped out (or am i the only one with threaded shackles?) Anyway, regarding the bushing, the best way to get them out is to burn them and then use an air-hammer with the V-chisel blade. Definatley coat the new bushings with never-cease grease.

and 1 more piece of advice that helped me out: Attach both springs the frame and then line up the axle (the pin on the spring fits nicely into the hole on the bottom of the axle). Once the axle is lined up then start tightening the U-bolts but do not really wrench them down until they all are on. This insures the axle is lined up and will stay lined up throughout the process..

[O'Brien]

well, aside from cases of your favorite poison for drinking, there's a couple tips that helped me out quite a bit.

first things first: make sure your rig is stable, and not going to crush you. be extra redundant with your safety measures. a new suspension set-up isn't worth dying for.

if you do decide to replace your bushings (which you should) here's some tips. you will ruin at least one or two trying to fit the new ones, so buy a couple extra. also, put your new bushings in the freezer for a day or two ahead of time, as they will be smaller and easier to put in. once i burned out my old bushings, i used a sawzall to make two cuts in the outer metal rim of the old bushing, popped right out. after that, used a dremel to make sure the inside of the housing was super smooth.

soak every single nut and bolt you are going to remove with PB blaster or your penetrating lubricant of choice beforehand, for a day or two. then apply a torch as needed to loosen things up while you're removing stuff. if everything on your series is original like mine was, and esp. since you're in an environment with snow, replace all your bolts, nuts, shackles etc. this is not a job you will want to do again.

it's always nice to have someone else to help too. i'm sure others will chime in, they were super helpful in answering my same question when i replaced mine.

[bullstanky]

My first question would be about the origin of the replacement springs you are installing. The sole manufacturer of para springs who distributes to all rover parts suppliers has recently changed specs (unbeknowst to the distributors of course) for some springs. Check out the thread
Rear Driveshaft Hung Up In Crossmember
<http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4479>

The para spring package that I purchased from AB (after calling to request one from RN first, who was aware of the issue and in benevolency would not sell me the funky springs) for my SIII 109" left me with an increased ride height on the back end that was so great as to mis-align my driveshaft and cause it to bind in the rear crossmember. That was about 2 months ago and I'm still working to get the new driveshaft cut to length, balanced and installed, and the crossmemeber notched to allow for suspension travel.

Hopefully this won't be the case for you, but thought you'd appreciate the knowledge.

[SeriesCanuck]

Thanks guys,

I haven't heard about the specs changing and causing problems, good to know.

The springs I got were from britpart if I remember correctly, not sure if that would make any difference in the spring spec area.

I'll report any issues I find for others to ponder in the future.

Thom

[SeriesCanuck]

Hi guys,

I've removed the fittings for a spring from the rear shackles and from the axle. The rear shackles are threaded.

Are they threaded on the frame at the front end of the rear springs as well? (see pic)

It seems the bushing inside the spring at this location has been crushed by 45 years of pressure and has been crimped onto the bolt. Which means I can't unscrew or bang out the bolt to release the spring.

Does anybody know of any quick tricks to removing the bolt in this case? (I was thinking I would have to cut on either side of the bushing (without cutting the frame) and then try to unscrew the rest of the bolt. Or is there a better way?

Thanks,
Thom

[I Leak Oil]

The spring hangers on the frame are not threaded. Just a bolt and a nut. Chances are the bolt is rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing. If a long breaker bar or pounding of a hammer doesn't do it I just break out the sawz-all. Cut the bolts between the frame and the spring. You'll need a few blades but this is the easiest way I've found to deal with the rusted bolt/bushing issue.
Jason T.

[SeriesCanuck]

Thanks. That's exactly what I thought I'd have to do. I was hoping there was an easier way than lying underneath with a saw.

Thanks,
Thom

[I Leak Oil]

Thanks. That's exactly what I thought I'd have to do. I was hoping there was an easier way than lying underneath with a saw.

Thanks,
Thom

You own a series truck. Get use to it!
Jason T.

[SeriesCanuck]

Yeah, I know.

I am fairly new to the series trucks....but I can tell you it's not any different with my RRC or my previous Disco 1.....just different types of springs and the series bolts are 45 years of rust in place.

Thanks again for the info...much appreciated.

Cheers,
Thom