Stumped! Help with Selectro hub, please

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • loganhbrown
    Low Range
    • Jul 2007
    • 12

    Stumped! Help with Selectro hub, please

    Help! I am in the process of taking apart my right front manually locking Selectro Hub. I cannot figure out how to get this castellated nut off. It does not seem to have any profile that a socket could fit on.
    Any advice on getting this thing apart would be greatly appreciated!
    Photo at below link.



    Thanks,
    Logan
  • Linus Tremaine
    1st Gear
    • Jan 2007
    • 178

    #2
    i think

    I think that is part of the hub that should just slide off the end of the axle spline when the main body of the hub is removed. I dont think you can turn it or loosen it. It is meshed directly with the splines on the axle shaft, so turning it would just turn the axle shaft. What is keeping the freewheeling hub body on is probably just rust and tight clearance between it and the wheel hub itself.
    I am assuming you are talking about the toothed gear in the picture. I dont see anything else there besides dirt!
    1968 Land Rover "Park Ranger" camper **SOLD**
    1967 109 **SOLD**
    NADA Dormobile #601 **SOLD**
    1965 IIA 88 2.5NA Diesel
    1963 Mercedes 300se
    1975 Volvo C303
    KJ6AQK

    Comment

    • Linus Tremaine
      1st Gear
      • Jan 2007
      • 178

      #3
      maybe

      Its hard to tell but the second picture leads me to think there might be something else there. Do you have another angle?
      I think I see some "castelated" bits sticking up on the bottom but it seems like they are absent from the top area as though broken off? Perhaps the castle nut is damaged or rusted away? There should be a nut there that would be held with a cotter pin. It normally can be taken off with a regular socket. What you have there looks damaged.

      I would try setting a screw driver in one of those notches and tapping the end of that with a hammer. Also, you could take a socket and cut notches in it corresponding to the notches remaining on that nut and use that.
      Last edited by Linus Tremaine; 10-10-2008, 09:25 PM.
      1968 Land Rover "Park Ranger" camper **SOLD**
      1967 109 **SOLD**
      NADA Dormobile #601 **SOLD**
      1965 IIA 88 2.5NA Diesel
      1963 Mercedes 300se
      1975 Volvo C303
      KJ6AQK

      Comment

      • loganhbrown
        Low Range
        • Jul 2007
        • 12

        #4
        ugh...

        Linus, thanks. I think you might be right. There is definitely a castle nut there, and I removed the cotter pin already. I also think you are correct that a piece or two is missing from the nut, but I swear, it looks as if there were never any edges for a socket to grab.
        LHB

        Comment

        • Eric W S
          5th Gear
          • Dec 2006
          • 609

          #5


          Oddly enough, a google search of "Selectro Hubs Parts Diagram" brought up the above page on the Mile marker site.

          Call and see if they have a diagram or advice.

          EwS

          Comment

          • Linus Tremaine
            1st Gear
            • Jan 2007
            • 178

            #6
            WOW

            No new info, but I came home and looked at your pictures again. My work computer screen SUCKS! It is much clearer on my computer what is going on in there.
            1968 Land Rover "Park Ranger" camper **SOLD**
            1967 109 **SOLD**
            NADA Dormobile #601 **SOLD**
            1965 IIA 88 2.5NA Diesel
            1963 Mercedes 300se
            1975 Volvo C303
            KJ6AQK

            Comment

            • SafeAirOne
              Overdrive
              • Apr 2008
              • 3435

              #7
              If you're talking about the castellated nut that is on the threaded portion of the axle shaft...well, I can only speak for my own rover, but they have no facets for a socket/wrench. I use channel-lock pliers to install/remove this nut. Yours looks the same except the locking hub housing surrounds the area, making removal of the nut more challenging. Just get a flat punch or drift and tap the slots in the nut in an anti-clockwise direction. It should loosen right up.

              See photo of my front hub with the dust cap removed:
              Last edited by SafeAirOne; 12-28-2008, 06:30 PM.
              --Mark

              1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

              0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
              (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

              Comment

              • loganhbrown
                Low Range
                • Jul 2007
                • 12

                #8
                got it!

                thanks, all, for the comments. I wound up hammering an old 1" socket onto the nut and that did the trick.

                Comment

                Working...