Valve adjustment questions...

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  • NC Rover
    2nd Gear
    • Dec 2007
    • 288

    Valve adjustment questions...

    So i'm learning my way thorugh the rover. Someone gave me the run down on adjusting valves. Can anyone explain the theory of 8's...or is it theory of 9's..or am I just way off? I know its something to do with working on the front and back valve...turning the motor over just a hair....then working on valve 2 and 7 etc etc. I dont' know if I'm making sense here. I know how to adjust them. I just wasn't sure which ones to work on first and so on and so fourth. Any info appreciated. Sorry I'm still a noob on engine work but getting better....I refuse to pay someone to work on the Rover.

    -Nick
    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|
  • jp-
    5th Gear
    • Oct 2006
    • 981

    #2
    NC, the green book covers this.

    However, I have always adjusted both valves per cylinder with that cylinder on TDC of the compression stroke. Then spin the engine over until it is on the compression stroke of the next cylinder. I've never had any issues doing it this way.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

    Comment

    • yorker
      Overdrive
      • Nov 2006
      • 1635

      #3


      TUNING LAND ROVER 2.25 PETROL ENGINES
      This is a brief "how to" guide for tuning your 2.25 petrol Land Rover. I hope it is not to vague.

      It is best to tune an engine when warm. Try to combine the tune-up with an oil change. After a lot of winter starts with the cold start (choke) on, a certain amount of gasoline blows by the piston rings into the crankcase, affecting the oil pressure, lubrication and the way the engine runs in general.

      So warm it up, change the oil, and then start with the valves. I know the valve cover plate says " Hot or Cold" but always try to adjust them hot (read warm). Follow this sequence:

      1 open adjust 8,
      2 open adjust 7,
      3 open adjust 6,
      4 open adjust 5 or visa/versa.
      Continue until all eight valves are adjusted. Open is when the valve spring appears as compressed as it is going to be. Remember, don't slacken off all the locknuts at once. and only adjust the valves (tappets) that require attention. Tight is, tight enough, on the locknuts. A good trick for the right adjustment is to go tight with the next larger size feeler gauge (0.011 inches). Then run the correct size through. It should feel just right, not loose, but not pinching or sticking. When you have adjusted all the valves then check the valves once again, maybe twice. This is a critical step in tuning your engine so take care and do it properly!!!
      Another guide: When the o valve is open, adjust the a valve. This is numbered front to back. The clearance should be .010. Use a .009 and a .011 gauge. .009 should go, the .011 should not. Do not tighten the adjustment screw with the feeler in place. It will deform (flatten it). After you finish, check it again to be sure. When in doubt, adjust on the loose side, especially with exhaust valves.


      [Bill Maloney]
      1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

      Land Rover UK Forums

      Comment

      • NC Rover
        2nd Gear
        • Dec 2007
        • 288

        #4
        Thanks for the great replies. This all completly makes sense. I appreciate all of the great advice.

        thanks again,
        Nick
        1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

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        • NC Rover
          2nd Gear
          • Dec 2007
          • 288

          #5
          Just finished adjusting the valves. Trying to put on the new valve cover gasket...and have a quick question....

          The gasket has a sticky side to it w/ adheasive....I was going to use some valve cover gasket sealant however I didn't know if you were not suppose to put it on both sides of the gasket. anyone have any answers?
          1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

          Comment

          • jac04
            Overdrive
            • Feb 2007
            • 1884

            #6
            Just clean the valve cover thoroughly and stick the gasket to the cover. No other sealant is required.

            Comment

            • Leslie
              5th Gear
              • Oct 2006
              • 613

              #7
              I did the opposite...... mine was cork and not sticky, I used an RTV-like sealer on one side of the cork, onto the head, w/ the cover onto the dry side of the cork. That way, I can take the cover on and off for adjustments w/o having to replace it every time.
              -L

              '72 SIII SW 88"
              '60 SII 88" RHD

              Comment

              • NC Rover
                2nd Gear
                • Dec 2007
                • 288

                #8
                Thanks for the reponses. I've always used gasket rtv sealer so I'll use that on the head-side of the gasket.

                thanks!
                Nick
                1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

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