Welding Question

[usadventureracing]

I need a welder and I figured I would ask you guys. Does anyone have a recommendation on a 220v welder. It will be used for my restoration and other auto/trailer projects. Thanks

[SafeAirOne]

I need a welder and I figured I would ask you guys. Does anyone have a recommendation on a 220v welder. It will be used for my restoration and other auto/trailer projects. Thanks

It depends on whet you want to do with it. I like my Millermatic 135 MIG welder for doing sheet metal (bulkhead, footwell) repair. Works like a champ on thin steel using steel mix gas. It is only 110v so thin stuff is no problem. I wish I had the 220v (Millermatic 175, I think) version for doing heavier work, but then I'd loose the ability to do the delicate stuff.

For the thicker, industrial welding, I use my miller arc (stick) welder.

Both have infinite adjustment for things like amperage (and wire feed speed on the MIG). I would strongly recommend this type of adjustment, whatever you choose. It allows for much better fine tuning. (it uses rheostat-type knobs instead of the ones that you click to a different setting).

[Rineheitzgabot]

I use a Millermatic 135 also. If you know how to lay the bead, you can succesfully mend, up to, 1/4" material. There's not any thicker than that on a Series anywhere (that you would want to weld on, anyway).

I think this machine is a good machine for a restore for the above reasons and the below reasons:

-Plugs into a regular 110V outlet-you can weld in your bathroom if you want to!
-If you buy flux core, wire, you don't have to mess around with gas (bottles and what-not are a pain in the but, in my opinion).
-Inexpensive start-up cost. You can have everything you need to start burnin' wire for about $800.

I don't work for Miller, nor do I care to, I just like the machine.

[greenmeanie]

I am not much of a welder but here goes:
1. Buy a brand name unit. You can't go wrong with Miller or Lincoln Electric and there are probably a few more well known brands out there. Cheap tools usually don't last. Find out what you local welding shop will support with parts and you might save yourself hassle for when you need something on shrt notice.
2. Look at the spec of the machine you buy. I have a LE 175 that will weld thin metal just as well as LE 100 I also have. The difference is that the 175 will do up to 1/2" per the manufacturer if set up as a flux core. It'll do 1/4" nicely as a mig. Manufacturers are often quite optimistic with the thickness of metal they claim their machines can weld although you can help matters with bevelled edges and so on.
3. I can't argue about the vernier Amp adjustment on the Miller being nicer. The five set positions on the LE have not been an issue for me but others more experienced may not like it.
4. Weldgas with MIG can't be beaten unless you are welding outside. Much nicer cleaner welds and your visor doesn't cleaned. If you are planning a restoration the cost of a bottle is not much in the grand scheme of things.
5. Check ebay and craigslist for deals. I picked up a new LE 175 for $300 that had been taken out its box by the previous owner while one still in its packaging is $600 and maybe more depending where you look. I'd draw up a short list of candidates and go with whichever one I can find a deal on.

Oh and buy one of those leather welding jackets if you plan on doing any work under your truck. T-shirts are not fireproof and dodging gobs of molten metal does not help with making pretty welds.

[109 Pretender]

1st Welder?

A 220V welder will require less amperage for the hookup - use 220 if you can. As to welder type - if you are just starting - get a MIG welder. Flux core is ok - you can upgrade to gas later. MIG will allow you to achieve good results with little experience. Stick welders are usually harder for beginners. The most important 'advantage' you can give yourself is a hood that auto-darkens. They start around 100.00 and go up to over 300.00. Don't let the price stop you - they're worth every penny!! After a good MIG (Miller/Lincoln/Hobart - all good), get yourself a good oxy-acetylene torch - very useful around shop. If you ever need to cut a lot of sheet metal,and/or 1/4-3/8 plate - save up and get a plasma cutter - you won't cut better or easier than with a plasma cutter. Don't overestimate need for good clothing (wear longsleeves for any type of electric welding - arc will burn you badly w/UV otherwise + good gloves with some dexterity to them. Then spray some sparks!

cheers!

[usadventureracing]

Thanks for the info, now I need to make some decisions.

[usadventureracing]

Does anyone know anything about this brand?

Clarke® 180EN Mig Welder 220 V 180 Amp (No Gas or Gas)

Thanks

[greenmeanie]

A 220V welder will require less amperage for the hookup - use 220 if you can.
cheers!

That's a good point as I was always tripping the circuit breakers in the house with my 110V welder.

[Leslie]

However...... I'd need to run a 220 line into the garage then..... don't think the wife'd want me welding in the laundry room w/ the dryer unplugged.....

[jp-]

That's a good point as I was always tripping the circuit breakers in the house with my 110V welder.

I have a Miller 110V welder as well (I think it's a Millermatic 120). It has been one of the best investments I've ever made. I only weld with gas. You will need a fair amount of practice. MIG's can easily make a pretty weld, but it may or may not be a good weld. Getting the proper penetration is just as important, if not more so, than a good looking weld pattern on the surface. You can weld up to 1/4" material, but it is much better to chamfer the edges on material this thick before starting the weld. My welder came with .023 wire which works well for material under 1/16". However, .030 or .035 is better for everything else.

At full power, my welder can pull a stated 30A. Most 110 outlets are only 15 or 20A at the most. What this means is that I can't run hotter than a setting 7 without tripping my breaker. Luckily, just about everything I weld can be done below this power level. However, a dedicated 30A outlet would be very nice to have.

[SafeAirOne]

At full power, my welder can pull a stated 30A. Most 110 outlets are only 15 or 20A at the most. What this means is that I can't run hotter than a setting 7 without tripping my breaker. Luckily, just about everything I weld can be done below this power level. However, a dedicated 30A outlet would be very nice to have.

I was just about at the max on my Millermatic 135 last week, but I was only welding a 1 inch bead, readjusting the workpiece, welding a 1 inch bead, adjusting (x4) so my breaker never tripped.

On my stick welder, I have an adapter to plug into a 30a 220v dryer outlet (instead of a 50a 220v outlet) and have done so in the past. When you approach the duty cycle of the welder, the breakers begin to trip. It hasn't been a problem for me yet.

Of course just because my house hasn't burned down, doesn't make it right, I suppose.

[I Leak Oil]

I need a welder and I figured I would ask you guys. Does anyone have a recommendation on a 220v welder. It will be used for my restoration and other auto/trailer projects. Thanks

If you're going with a 220V then go with the Miller 250 family of mig welders. We use these all day long in the shop for production work and have very little issues with them. They do a decent job with the thinner stuff but if you plan on doing alot of that you'd be better off with a Lincoln 130 as I find the Lincoln 110V units to have better control.

You can't go wrong with either Miller or Lincoln or even a Hobart but stay away from the no name brands and the box store re-badged stuff.
Jason T.

[49coe]

When I had my Millermatic 135 I never tripped a breaker using a 20amp circuit. I can, however dim the lights in my neighborhood with my Syncrowave 250! I would recommend staying away from flux core if you can. Gas is so much cleaner. Also if you are welding sheetmetal and pulsing and skipping around it will save you from having to chip and clean off flux between welds. As for the clark, I have no experiance with it, but I would recomend staying with the "real" brands. You will have a quality machine, plus a warantee/parts support if you ever need it, and it will have resale value if you ever decide to part with it. I bought my Millermatic 135 for $650 and I sold it six years later for $600. Other than that, if you are an inexperianced welder, I would highly recomend taking a class if you can find one locally. There is a big difference between making some sparks and getting the pieces to stick, and laying a nice quality bead. Good luck.

[greenmeanie]

I think Clarke is very popular in the UK nd is considered a good brand there. I don't know what parts support is like on this side of the pond though.

[Leslie]

I think I've seen Clarke at Tractor Supply......

Miller, Lincoln, Hobart are the ones that ring a bell (in a positive way), for me, at least, FWIW......