Painting over POR15

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  • crankin
    5th Gear
    • Jul 2008
    • 696

    Painting over POR15

    I am planning on POR15-ing over my bulkhead before I paint it.

    POR15's website suggests using a primer that they sell before painting.
    Is this really necessary?


    Birmabright Brotherhood

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    Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB
  • Jim-ME
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1379

    #2
    The primer they sell is an etch primer that allows paint to stick to the POR underpaint. If you are going to spend the money to use the POR I'd use their primer as well. I have been using both and haven't been disappointed.
    Jim

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    • Terrys
      Overdrive
      • May 2007
      • 1382

      #3
      Conversely, I can tell you that without the primer, paint will peel off in a nice sheet.

      Comment

      • Leslie
        5th Gear
        • Oct 2006
        • 613

        #4
        Or, galvanize the bulkhead instead of POR.....
        -L

        '72 SIII SW 88"
        '60 SII 88" RHD

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        • crankin
          5th Gear
          • Jul 2008
          • 696

          #5
          I thought about galvanizing it. However, I used some 16 gauge to replace the breaks on the vent area (the thinner stuff broke the angles better) and I am a little worried that the dip hitting 800+ degrees will cause the metal to warp a little too much for my liking.


          Birmabright Brotherhood

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          Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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          • Momo
            3rd Gear
            • Dec 2006
            • 347

            #6
            POR is good stuff but will peel if the prep is wrong. Eastwood makes a similar product that is very good.

            I wouldn't worry too much about galvanizing the bulkhead. I've seen several that came out fine. The main problems seem to be slag that accumulates and holes that get filled that shouldn't get filled. Around the vents, the run of the steel is short enough that I don't think you need be too concerned about warping. Galvanizing is the best way to keep the bulkhead protected for the next 50 years. Too bad they didn't come like that from the factory.
            '60 SII Station Wagon
            '64 SIIA 109 Regular
            '68 SIIA 88 Station Wagon

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            • dunerunner
              1st Gear
              • May 2008
              • 110

              #7
              Definately prime if you choose to POR15 the bulkhead. Un-primed POR is like glass!!
              '94 D-90, '59 SII 109 Regular

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              • TJR
                2nd Gear
                • Dec 2006
                • 279

                #8
                Originally posted by crankin
                I am planning on POR15-ing over my bulkhead before I paint it.

                POR15's website suggests using a primer that they sell before painting.
                Is this really necessary?

                Anyone have experience putting a fresh second coat of POR 15 over previously applied and cured POR 15 (3 weeks old)
                Just scuff and get to it?

                Comment

                • scott
                  Overdrive
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 1226

                  #9
                  Originally posted by TJR
                  Anyone have experience putting a fresh second coat of POR 15 over previously applied and cured POR 15 (3 weeks old)
                  Just scuff and get to it?
                  my bulkhead por-15 paint job sat a week before the color coat was applied. i just 3m scatch padded it all over using a disc on my drill until the shine was off all the por-15. it's been 9 months now and no peeling or flaking of my color coat
                  '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
                  '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
                  '76 Spitfire 1500
                  '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

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                  • daveb
                    5th Gear
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 513

                    #10
                    since bulkheads are made if 18 or 19 gauge, your thicker 16 gauge should work just fine.

                    Originally posted by crankin
                    I thought about galvanizing it. However, I used some 16 gauge to replace the breaks on the vent area (the thinner stuff broke the angles better) and I am a little worried that the dip hitting 800+ degrees will cause the metal to warp a little too much for my liking.
                    A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."


                    Comment

                    • crankin
                      5th Gear
                      • Jul 2008
                      • 696

                      #11
                      Wow. I guess I should do a quick update on what has happened since Oct. '08 with my bulkhead...seeing how this is stirring up again.

                      I did go ahead and hot dip it. I don't regret the decision to do this because I feel confident that it was the best option to get total coverage. I did have some warping around the vents and when you park it by a un–galvanized bulkhead you can really notice. However, it still creates a good seal. The lip on the floor board seemed to draw upwards some…but banging and pulling fixed this problem.

                      Um…I had to pull the passenger side corner out a place some spacers in there to align everything.

                      Right now, I can honestly say that almost all the steal on the rig has been galvanized. Well, what about the bolts, washers and nuts? They are all Grade 8…so the Yellow Chromate will offer some resistance to rust (96 - 168 hours in a salt spray test).

                      I am pretty sure I will not be doing another frame off resto anytime soon on this truck.


                      Birmabright Brotherhood

                      Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


                      Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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                      • TriedStone
                        Low Range
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 81

                        #12
                        Ok since we've got a little off topic anyway... for those who have galvanized their frame or bulked (which I plan on doing) is getting paint to stick to the galvanization a problem?

                        Thanks,
                        James

                        Comment

                        • crankin
                          5th Gear
                          • Jul 2008
                          • 696

                          #13
                          Some of the areas that I could not really get to well enough to scuff them have flaked a little. For example the inside part of the bonnet hooks are flaking...

                          But i also did a single stage paint without etching primer.


                          Birmabright Brotherhood

                          Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


                          Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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                          • TriedStone
                            Low Range
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 81

                            #14
                            crankin If I'm following this correctly... you galvanized it (bulkhead) and now your going to por-15 it? I had thought about that also, and then you plan on painting over the por?

                            Comment

                            • crankin
                              5th Gear
                              • Jul 2008
                              • 696

                              #15
                              No..no...
                              Back in Oct. '08...I had heard some horror stories about some bulkheads being warped from being hot dipped. Seeing how I had a bulkhead that had been worked on I didn't want to ruin it.

                              I had thought to save myself the agony of losing the bulkhead from being hot dipped and just POR15 it. However, I would have to sacrifice some of the benefits of galvanizing by doing this. For example, hot dipping gets into every crook and cranny because it is being totally submerged in a tank.

                              There were other options for galvanizing that would not have warped the metal…and some other options for coating the metal altogether. But when it was all said and done my galvanizing guy would do 100 pounds for $100. It was hard to beat that price. Also, i felt secure enough that hip dipping would not misshape the metal that much.

                              I think POR15-ing over galvanizing would be overkill…


                              Here is everyhting as of four months ago. http://picasaweb.google.com/clint.ra...eat=directlink
                              I have it up and running right now...and just put the bonnet on last weekend. Doors and floors this weekend.


                              Birmabright Brotherhood

                              Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


                              Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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