My new toy needs parts

[Momo]

That bulkhead looks pristine. It would be a shame to come this far in disassembly and not galvanize it. Small price to pay for forty years of rustproofing.

[gambrinus]

Anyplace that makes headstones has sandblasting equipment for etching the letters into the stone. If that stuff doesn't make you queezy give a few places a call.

This is how I got a bulkhead blasted years ago. Struck up a conversation with a guy at the gravemarker place... Said to come back around lunch time and he'd "take a look at it". I came back with the bulkhead and a case of beer and a deal was struck.

Rw

[ML-ENGR]

I’ve wire wheeled the potential bad spots and only found surface rust. There is a hole that’s full of bondo, from where an antenna was that needs a patch welded on, and some small dents in the footwells. but other than that its in great shape. Its quite dry here even in the winter and we don’t use salt so all the other steel parts are just as good. I going to call up north and see what I can find. Google turned up nothing on the gravemaker. I will ask around though... thanks for the tips.

I hadn’t planned on getting a professional paint job, as the local quotes are ridiculous, and I really should save the money given the local economy. Would the Galvanizing be any more difficult to paint over than aluminum? I had planned to use either a HVLP setup or try the “$50 paint job”.

[Eric W S]

I’ve wire wheeled the potential bad spots and only found surface rust. There is a hole that’s full of bondo, from where an antenna was that needs a patch welded on, and some small dents in the footwells. but other than that its in great shape. Its quite dry here even in the winter and we don’t use salt so all the other steel parts are just as good. I going to call up north and see what I can find. Google turned up nothing on the gravemaker. I will ask around though... thanks for the tips.

I hadn’t planned on getting a professional paint job, as the local quotes are ridiculous, and I really should save the money given the local economy. Would the Galvanizing be any more difficult to paint over than aluminum? I had planned to use either a HVLP setup or try the “$50 paint job”.

You need the right etching primer for galv, otherwise the paint will not adhere.

Check around for paint. I found a shop willing to do it for 3k out the door. Bringing them the parts clean alum or primer for NOS ones. Usually shops that advertise custom paint for street or rods will be game. I went with Dupont 2 stage base clear.

[thixon]

You need the right etching primer for galv, otherwise the paint will not adhere.

Epoxy primer will stick quite well to galv (also sticks to aluminum).

I won't argue that galv is a longer lasting solution to keeping your bulkhead in order. However, keep in mind that if you do want to paint it after you've had it hot dipped, that you'll have some work to do to make it nice and smooth for painting. That is unless you don't mind the texture under the paint (along with the possibility of some zinc runs/drips). If you decide to just paint it, use a good epoxy primer. Depending on your age, it will still probably outlast you.

[Eric W S]

Epoxy primer will stick quite well to galv (also sticks to aluminum).

I won't argue that galv is a longer lasting solution to keeping your bulkhead in order. However, keep in mind that if you do want to paint it after you've had it hot dipped, that you'll have some work to do to make it nice and smooth for painting. That is unless you don't mind the texture under the paint (along with the possibility of some zinc runs/drips). If you decide to just paint it, use a good epoxy primer. Depending on your age, it will still probably outlast you.

Media blasting produces the same "texture" issues as hot dipping does. It also has the same panel warpage risks as well.

If you are getting a good paint job done they will properly prime (expoxy for bare metal or primer designed for galv), fill, and block the bulkhead prior to your final color coats.

I had my Defender's bumper blasted to bare metal. It was then epoxy primed and received two top coats and clear. It took all of three Chicago winters and regular wheeling in the Midwest for the rust to reappear. It pissed me off as I spent a good deal of change to have it done right.

IMO epoxy over bare steel is not viable rust prevention in any area of the country that will see road salt.

[thixon]

Media blasting produces the same "texture" issues as hot dipping does. It also has the same panel warpage risks as well.

If you are getting a good paint job done they will properly prime (expoxy for bare metal or primer designed for galv), fill, and block the bulkhead prior to your final color coats.

I had my Defender's bumper blasted to bare metal. It was then epoxy primed and received two top coats and clear. It took all of three Chicago winters and regular wheeling in the Midwest for the rust to reappear. It pissed me off as I spent a good deal of change to have it done right.

IMO epoxy over bare steel is not viable rust prevention in any area of the country that will see road salt.

Media blasting produces a texture sure, but you don't get the variations in thickness, runs, drips etc. you could get with galvy. That was the point of my post. Some people don't like the way galvy bulkheads look, and he might be one of them. Paint prep would also be easier IMO (I do my own). I was just warning the guy what he'd be in for. Also, if you use the right media, you don't have to worry much about panel warpage or a really rough texture (walnut shells for example). That said, I still prefer sand for something like a firewall. The texture left is easily overcome by a coat of epoxy, followed by a 2k building primer.

Chicago's a rough place for any brit car. It doesnt appear that he'll have the issues (based on where he lives) you have to deal with. I live in GA. The problems you ran into are'nt as big a deal down here.

[thixon]

Eric,

One more thing. I just got ahold of a healey 100-4, and I won't be galvanizing the body panels!

[jp-]

How much for the Healey?

[Eric W S]

Eric,

One more thing. I just got ahold of a healey 100-4, and I won't be galvanizing the body panels!

Why would you for a road car? Galvanizing has it's place but it's hardly appropriate for everything. On a classic car, then a realllllly reallly nice paint job with epoxy is the way to go. It'd be stored most of the time in Chi-town anyway. Which is why I haven't gotten another motorcycle or another classic...

One brit vehicle is enough for me.

Restore it and sell it up here. Rust free southern cars fetch a premium here.

[Eric W S]

It doesnt appear that he'll have the issues (based on where he lives) you have to deal with. I live in GA. The problems you ran into are'nt as big a deal down here.

Yes and no. I'd still suggest galv. There are cavities that you can't prime on a bulkhead. And since he's going to paint it at home he's not going to have it "baked". So there is the real potential for moisture in the cavities that could potentially rust from the inside out...

[JackIIA]

I media blasted my bulkhead and had no warpage issues (at least that I can see...guess I'll find out when I test fit). I did note on the Pangolin site though that he talks about phosphoric acid baths as a better solution. That is something I would have considered. Big issue for me, and I think Eric mentioned, is getting rid of the rust that isn't reachable with a gun. I went so far as to media blast up the door posts before repairing, but I question whether that really is enough.


Anyone have experience with getting parts dunked in an acid bath in the Massachusetts?? I'm guessing that is something you bring to a pro. (As I think about it though, might not be worth it since I've already welded galvanized parts on and assume would obviously lose that coating.)

[greenmeanie]

I've seen several bulkheads that have just been painted like Thixon suggests. As far as internal corrosion goes you can buy various inhibiting fluids that can be poured into the thing and which will be quite successful at preventign interanl corrosion. Mind you, standing in the fornt yard with a friend playing shake and rotate the bulkhead may get a visit from the van with yellow wheels.

While I can't argue that galvy is the preferred option a lot of people are finding a shop that will do their parts extremely difficult to find. Shipping a bulkhead across country starts getting prohibitivelty expensive. This brings up a good question - what is the next best option after galvy?

With me and where I am I could leave mine bare metal and still expect it to be here in 50 years but I do have a friendly galvy shop in town so tomorrow its hi ho, hi ho off to galvy we go.

[SafeAirOne]

This brings up a good question - what is the next best option after galvy?

I don't know about the practicality of it, or it's ability to completely cover hollow interior surfaces, but I think powder coating is probably number 2 in durability to galvanizing. This is a guess based on personal observations. I don't know anyone who has powder coated a bulkhead.

[adkrover]

There are a number of products you can get that paint on and turn oxidation into a stable material. I think it's refered to as "pickling". After you've reversed the oxidation process, a good quality paint from an auto paint store will do wonders. Search the web for auto paint supes. Don't buy crap Rustoleum or others. Go to a professional shop and buy the stuff that the EPA would like to ban. Then you'll be all set unless your truck is a winter rat in central NY where 6 months out of the year it will be bathed in pure salt.