engine pull?

[scott]

i got moving today! pull the engine on my spit then attacked my rove. you might have read how my rove siezed in september. i diconected everything except one bell housing bolt. the upper one of the 3 that also hold on the clutch slave cylinder bracket. i just couldn't get to it. so my question is should i have removed the floor boards and tranny tunnel and gone at it from the inside?

[Daurie]

When I pulled my trans I remember thinking about how much easier being able to remove the floor and tunnel would make removing the engine too..

[scott]

daur. i r/r my tranny just 2 years ago. all i remembered is how much i hated pulling the cockpit apart. i didn't bother putting it back together and drove it daily w/o a floor or tranny tunnel and the seat box unbolted for about 2 months

[Jeff Aronson]

Transmission Removal

Yes, when I had to rebuild my transmission years ago. I had to remove the floorboards and seat box to get the transmission out of the car. I had my original II-A frame then, so I could not remove the transmission crossmember. With the help of a friend, we lifted it out of the car successfully.

Good luck!

Jeff

[Daurie]

I don't mind removing that stuff so much. Also gives me a chance to check linkages and so forth.

[Moose]

I've always removed the floors and tunnel cover when pulling the engine. Great access to all the studs then. I wouldn't have thought there was room to do it otherwise.

Brett

[scott]

there ain't room, i'll be pulling out the floor and tunnel tomorow

[Momo]

Pulling the floor panels is the way to go. New floor screws makes life easier too. Incidentally you can drop the gearbox out the bottom, you just have to finesse it.

[JayGoss]

Pulling the floor panels is the way to go. New floor screws makes life easier too. Incidentally you can drop the gearbox out the bottom, you just have to finesse it.

I've got two days to remove a series II transmission/xfer case (from my 1960 Series II)- and replace it with a rebuilt Series IIa transmission/xfer case. I was thinking I would have to remove the floor panels, tunnel cover and seat box- then lift it out of the Rover with an engine hoist and some help from a buddy. This post gives me hope that I can remove the floor panels and tunnel cover- and somehow drop the transmission with some careful maneuvering. Although I have a new galvanized frame it doesn't have a removable tranny x-member. If Momo or someone out there wouldn't mind responding with the steps to drop the transmission I'd greatly appreciate it! If the only way is to remove from above, is it necessary to remove the hard top- or can two people (and a telescoping engine hoist) remove it without taking the hard top off?

[scott]

when i pulled mine i left my soft top on. removed the passenger door floor, seat box and used an engine hoist. could have manager it myself but bad vibes helping made it real easy

[JayGoss]

when i pulled mine i left my soft top on. removed the passenger door floor, seat box and used an engine hoist. could have manager it myself but bad vibes helping made it real easy

Thanks Scott- I think that's the way I'm going to do it tomorrow. Appreciate the quick feedback.

[jac04]

^^I've done it the same way as scott, but I removed both doors to make it easier to access everything.

[JayGoss]

Well, got the old Series II transmission out and got the rebuilt Series IIa unit bolted up to the flywheel housing. Everything went smoothly but at this point it looks like the transmission mounts aren't lined up quite as they should be. The guy who restored this Rover for me mentioned that the bell housing for a Series II is slightly different than that of a Series IIa- not sure exactly what he meant...but I wonder if this is why the transmission mounts aren't lining up. I have the motor jacked up a bit now- and the transmission is being supported by an engine hoist- so it's possible that it will fit when it's all lowered back down...but right now it's looking like I may have to modify the transmission mount brackets. Anyone experience incompatabilities with Series II vs Series IIa transmission swaps?

[JayGoss]

For those of you that may search this post later, if your transmission isn't lining up with the mounts, loosen everything up- including the motor mounts and you'll be amazed at how much movement is possible between jacking up the motor and using an engine hoist to position the transmission. I started this morning and had everything bolted down in 15 minutes (after wrestling with it yesterday for over an hour!)

[scott]

you had a what i call a beer moment...you're working a way turning wrenches, drinking beers then after a couple of hours of fun your judgement slips things start to get a bit harder, blah blah blah...take a 12 hr break so that you can focus on the beer and bam! everything starts working again