Timing help please!

[Bostonian1976]

Yep - I think there is still an issue - it does not seem to have the power an 8:1 head should. I've checked the brakes aren't dragging, and the T-brake. New Wber carb set to corect mix.
But everything checks out unless I try going to 6 deg BTDC or beyond? What sort of damage if I advance the timing too much?

pretty sure you can just overheat (or is that too retarded?). I'm still newish to this stuff myself. Know what I did? Went and got a Pertronix distributor, some new plug wires for the hotter spark, timed it by ear, and everything has been perfect since......a very worthwhile 200 bucks in my opinion.....

[singingcamel]

any vaccum leaks,also twist your rotor ,does it return ?
i agree,sure sounds like a timing issue but if youve done what you said you did ,it may something else.
points did you regap or replace them,i would,i agree with jeff . change out that rotor and condenser as well. inspect the dizzy cap for cracks.
you can't always go buy the book on these beast, especially if there has been work done on the engines,timing gear may no be on ,timing chain loose. keep going you'll find it and keep us posted..marc
www.singingcamel.com

[BackInA88]

Vacuum hose

I have installed a Petronix electronic ignition (newer type Lucas distributor) so no points to adjust.....(unless I am missing something!) however, last night I set it to 3 deg BTDC with the light and I have a bunch more power today. Still doesn't feel as powerful as it should though.
Another question - when setting the timing with a light should I diconnect the vacuum hose and set it that way, then reconnect the hose and adjust idle to 750 rpm? Many thanks for all the input, it is getting better all the time!

I was wondering the same thing about the vacuum hose.
"Back in the day" all my others cars had the timing set with the vacuum disconneted and plugged but I saw nothing in the crappy Haynes book about disconneting it?

I have a new Weber and a complete electronic distributor I got off Ebay with the timing set at 6 degrees.
I don't notice any pinging but it does run on a second when I shut it off.

I think my head is a 7:1 even though it is suppose to be a crate engine. The guy I bought it from said it had hardened valve seats.
I can't imagine buying a crate engine and not upgrading to 8:1?
I don't see the stamp on the head bolt boss across from the carb.

I am going to do a compression test on it.
What should I get if I have an 8:1 head with good rings and valves?

Can I just mill the head to get 8:1, if so how much comes off?

Can I just

[dmurrell]

The reason to clamp off the vacuum line is to ensure there is no "vacuum advance" being applied to the distributor.

The thing to be careful of with Pertronix is the magnet is 90 degrees off from the lobe that used to open the points, so be sure to retard the ignition significantly berfore you start. Also, I'm a little detail oriented, so I typically use an old "dwell meter"

Best of Luck,
Dave

[yorker]

http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/Engine.CylinderHead.html

I wouldn't really worry about making a 7:1 into a 8:1. if the 7:1 is in good shape the truck should run fine and have "plenty" of power.

[BackInA88]

The reason to clamp off the vacuum line is to ensure there is no "vacuum advance" being applied to the distributor.

The thing to be careful of with Pertronix is the magnet is 90 degrees off from the lobe that used to open the points, so be sure to retard the ignition significantly berfore you start. Also, I'm a little detail oriented, so I typically use an old "dwell meter"

Best of Luck,
Dave

Dave,

I Know with passed vehicles there was always some vacuum advance even at idle, hence the reason for disconneting and plugging before setting the timing.
So your saying the vacuum advance hose on the 2.25 should be done the same or the hose clamped.
I am only double checking because the "cheap" manual I bought made no mention so I set the timing with it connected to vacuum.

Thanks
Steve

[Clive]

OK - still not clear:

1. Should the vacuum hose be disconnected when setting timing with a Pertronix EI installed?

2. How do you know when the magnet is 90 deg? Er, 90 deg to what exactly? Sorry but I am really trying to figure thius out...and many thanks for the suggestions.

I believe an 8:1 head should have a compression of ~160.

[yorker]

OK - still not clear:

1. Should the vacuum hose be disconnected when setting timing with a Pertronix EI installed?

2. How do you know when the magnet is 90 deg? Er, 90 deg to what exactly? Sorry but I am really trying to figure thius out...and many thanks for the suggestions.

I believe an 8:1 head should have a compression of ~160.

#1-yes Timing is always done with the Vacuum advance disconnected.
#2 IDK
#3 yes more or less~ there and even compression across all cyls within reason.

http://www.bayourovers.com/trick22.html pertronix install
http://www.bayourovers.com/trick19.html timing tricks

[Clive]

Thanks Yorker, the motor is delivering a lot of power now, finally set at just over 6 deg BTDC! And appears to run smoothly. Slopes that last week were a struggle in 4th I am now switching into overdrive before the crest!! Great feeling!
BTW, what is IDK?

[yorker]

IDK = "I Don't Know"

it is one of those little shorthand things that seems to cropped up on the Internet like
IIRC= "If I Recall Correctly"
RKI= "Relatively Knowledgeable Individual" (as opposed to an expert)
YMMV="Your Mileage May Vary"

I'm glad you got your timing sorted out- I know how things like that can be very aggravating and it is easy to forget to unhook the vacuum advance.

[singingcamel]

thanks for the up date, this is how we all learn

[bchene]

Tming

I recently installed an electronic distributor and after some testing ended up at 6 degrees BTDC. Same as you. I also found a note that you do need to disconnect/plug the vacuum advance.