Clayton Cabin Heater on Ebay

[yorker]

Gregor- which heater does your 109 have? the same one as Mercede's Jim's? (the one with the distribution box beneath the dash/parcel shelf)?

The Kodiak came in at least 4 different versions, Ike Goss has a pretty good reference to them here: http://pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/r...te/kodiak.html

The Kodiak I have the mot experience with is the MK4:

http://pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/reference/lib/kodiaksite/kmark4.html

They are nice- with big heater cores and can use fresh air which is usually drier than the cabin air and can reduce some of the condensation inside on the windows easier than a recirculating heater. the Mk4 can easily heat an 88" but I'd like to find a way to bring some of the heat directly into the left hand footwell.



There are a lot of other heaters out there, the Flex-a-lite Mojave heater has been used by some people. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/mojave-heater.html

Here is another one i've seen used:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/Heaters/GP_2002895_N_111+10201+600002307_10101.jcw

There are also various other auxillary and or army surplus heaters out there that can be used. A really neat auxillary heater is available off of Toyota FJ60's- they might work well in a 109 for the rear. FJ40's have an auxillary heater that is like the Smiths- a round core with a fan in the middle- they could be adapted too but aren't that great.

If strict originality isn't a concern there really are a ton of heaters out there that can, and have- been used over the years.

Heck even the guys with 24 volt LR's could probably figure out how to use something like this:

http://www.armysurpluswarehouse.com/product/jeep-heater-3259.cfm

Alaska Mike- the first thing to do is make sure all the various leaks are stopped- the odd holes in the bukhead that some PO drilled- the bad seals on the doors etc- they make a huge difference in the winter- much more than most people realize.

[greenmeanie]

Matt,
Yup that's the one. The late IIA heaters seem to share a lot of common features with the Kodiak except that Land Rover have tried to make it more integral with the truck. The nice thing about it is that you get a big duct running across under the dash to provide air to the driver's footwell.

I'd be interested to know they compared heat wise.

The other heater to mention is arctic heater fitted to MOD trucks for winter warfare. It is a serious afair that replaces the center seat in tha cab and uses lots of hose to duct air to the windows, rear , roof and anywhere else someone might place their tootsies. I can't find a picture right now but there should be some floating around.

[Eric W S]

Are you guys just nostalgic for these or doing 100 point restorations? There are tons of better heaters out there for less $... I could see using one of these as an auxillary/rear heater in a 109 I guess but for the front I'd prefer a more modern design. If someone reproduced the Kodiak with a better distribution box then you'd really have something.

The Clayton's have a much higher rated output than the originals due to an improved modern core design. The cores and heater units get very good marks for comfort level from the Series2Club BBS. They heat very well and are well made. One poster on the BBS was amazed at how quickly he had to turn it off and was echoed by several others.

Wouldn't be a 100 point resto - they were mainly offered in Canada as opposed to the US and were used for late SI and early SIIs from what I can gather.

I just want to simplify my engine bay and sell the Kodiak when the new bulkhead comes in. I like the look and the Clayton fits the bill. Nice and simple.

[vandermeter]

So,Lads, with my series III 88, the weak link in the winter commute seems to be the strength of the heater- The half dozen areas that I can see "daylight" through... and the "optimistic design" of the defroster hoses.
After addressing the daylight issue-caulk, rubber mat, ect, there seems to be two schools of thought-replace my OEM unit with aftermarket kit, Or add supplementary heater unit(s)??FYI I also use the RN grill cover.

Not just a comfort level- I drive (happily)all winter with coat, hat and gloves and WARM boots. I know it's vintage and British! It's just outright Dangerous to have that window fog/ice or frost obscure the (Tiny) windshield .I mean It's gotten downright scary on several late night return trips from work. Would Love to not have a frozen left foot on hour or longer jaunts...but really wanna SURVIVE the 15 min drive to and from work. Any way of ramping up the DEFROSTER?

[yorker]

Any way of ramping up the DEFROSTER?

Sure different defroster pipes might help the flow, more air helps, drier exterior air vs. recirculated air, heated windscreens- there is a lot of stuff you can do- just give it some thought.



Gregor- I have one of those under dash distribution boxes somewhere from one of my old parts trucks. I could faricate some sort of newer distribution box with it and an off the shelf heater core and blower- could be a fun project, maybe I'll try that in the ambulance. The arctic heaters are neat- I have pics of one somewhere but haven't been able to add one to my collection yet, always been a day late and dollar short when one turned up.

[vandermeter]

Tanks- will tink on improvements...bye the bye, has anyone tried a Mt. Mansfield?? heater from our sponsors?

[Blueboy]

has anyone tried a Mt. Mansfield?? heater from our sponsors

yep; have one in Blueboy and it works great!!

even with temps in single digits, it is warm in the front and that is with the 2 speed fan on low.

as there is usually only 2 Labs on the rear seat, not too sure how warm it is back there, yet, there is plenty of hot air moving around with the fan on high.

coupled with the heated windshield, deicing/defogging is also very good.


Jaime

[SafeAirOne]

The other heater to mention is arctic heater fitted to MOD trucks for winter warfare... ...I can't find a picture right now but there should be some floating around.

I can't find an installed pic but see http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5579 for all the pieces.

...the first thing to do is make sure all the various leaks are stopped- the odd holes in the bukhead that some PO drilled- the bad seals on the doors etc- they make a huge difference in the winter- much more than most people realize.

I wholheartedly concur. It was 30 degrees here today. I just installed a new heater core and blower motor. Both work like absolute champs. A real furnace. I still froze my a$$ off however, because both front doortops leak BADLY and I've got one of those special rear sliding windows that automatically opens when I reach Mach 0.0000000002 on the open road.

[Jim-ME]

My bitsa Rover came with the late 2a Smith's system which had the distribution box/tube which ran under the dash. The PO had completely removed the distribution tube and I found out last winter the hard way that defrost is more important to me than cabin heat but then again I work outside and am used to being cold. I had planned to put in a Kodiak M4 core and distribution box coupled with my existing late 2a Smith's blower and install heated windscreens but I'm not sure I'm going to follow thru. For the time being I simply cut the tube which ran under the dash off and moved the little door over. I also want to install an under the dash quadrant hand throttle and a late 2a heat distribution system is not compatible. I'm following this thread very closely and am interested in all that is being said and tried. The one thing I do know is that the Mt. Mansfield heater is way out of my price range.
Jim

[greenmeanie]

For the fogging/icing windscreen issue the heated windscreens are 100 times better than blowing around hot air. There's a company in the UK that sells them for a very reasonable price too, even including shipping, and our host even has the harness.

Heater - who needs one of those? In Phoenix the leaky door seals are a pain because the let the hot air in.

[TedW]

I have the stock setup in my 1970 IIA.

It puts out mucho mucho heat, IMO, especially since I had the heater core flushed out. Even my wife is happy, and we have a soft top. In the winter it is very cold, AND damp, where we live (Maine coast).

I have added the high-temp thermostat which now provides even more heat.

Jim, I believe I have the same stock distribution box that your PO removed. If you can find a used one I think it's worth putting back on. As you might know, you can direct the air to either the screen, the footwells, or both. You can also isolate the footwell heat to one side.

[Jim-ME]

I saved the parts/pieces I cut. I have no desire to run the complete tube to my feet as I want the hand throttle. I just got the rest of the plastic tubing to defrost the windscreen so I am very happy at this point. I will be installing a higher temp thermostat which will/should make the heat output better. I hope.
Jim

[yorker]

make sure you have a good heater core too- I think Mercedes Jim found good alternative for the stock housing- it is mentioned in one of his build threads or over on G&R.

[sven]

I used a generic heater from summitracing in my SIII. I replaced the stock core and motor with this "all-in-one" unit.
Truck is all apart (again) so I will redo the mounts and fresh air ducting for it.
Here's a pic when I first did it.

[vandermeter]

[quote=Blueboy]yep; have one in Blueboy and it works great!!



Jamie, Remember what you paid (aprox)? seem to remember a "sale" on them at RN for 300 and change???? talkin outa my tookis...but think that was it...