Fiberglass repair and its strength?

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  • crankin
    5th Gear
    • Jul 2008
    • 696

    Fiberglass repair and its strength?

    I've got an SIII 88", that I am replacing the six rear seat supports in (three per side). These are the supports that make the rear tub have the rivets/carriage bolts on the side and also have the bolts for the side seat belts bolts through them.

    When removing two of them, I created two big holes. I was wondering if I fiberglassed over the hole if it would work?

    The way look at it the aluminum is sandwiched between the support bar and the seat belt bolt and does not really offer anything more then an environment barrier.

    Has anyone else done this?


    Birmabright Brotherhood

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    Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB
  • LaneRover
    Overdrive
    • Oct 2006
    • 1743

    #2
    what about riveting in a piece of aluminum?
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

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    • crankin
      5th Gear
      • Jul 2008
      • 696

      #3
      Originally posted by LaneRover
      what about riveting in a piece of aluminum?
      I've thought about that, too, and have certainly made it an option.


      Birmabright Brotherhood

      Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


      Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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      • Rineheitzgabot
        4th Gear
        • Jun 2008
        • 386

        #4
        I would say that fiberglass would not be flexible enough.

        IMO
        "I can't believe I'm sitting here, completely surrounded by no beer!" -Onslow

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        • thixon
          5th Gear
          • Jul 2007
          • 909

          #5
          IMO,
          not a good idea. You'd have to cover or encase a really large area with mat and resin, it would'nt be flexible, and it would look like crap. Plus, it would have to be laid up thick to have enough strength (hence the "crap" in the last sentence). My guess is that you would'nt be happy with it.

          I'd go the riveting of alum sheet route, or, If you want to go totally overboard buy a bending brake (if you don't already own one), and remake that panel, and use rivets where the spotwelds were on the old panel.

          Good luck. Post some pics of what you do for the rest of us knuckleheads.
          Travis
          '66 IIa 88

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          • crankin
            5th Gear
            • Jul 2008
            • 696

            #6
            Sure thing. Any other ideas?


            Birmabright Brotherhood

            Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


            Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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            • Leslie
              5th Gear
              • Oct 2006
              • 613

              #7
              There was a hole cut in my trop top when I got it. My friend w/ the mad welding skills cut a piece of aluminum, and welded it up so nice, that after being sanded/painted, you can't tell that there was a hole there.

              Personally, w/o that kind of welding skill, I'd pop-rivet a piece over it, but if I *could*, I'd weld a piece in to fill the hole.
              -L

              '72 SIII SW 88"
              '60 SII 88" RHD

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              • thixon
                5th Gear
                • Jul 2007
                • 909

                #8
                welding in some sheet is definately an option, but make sure the guy who does it knows what he's doing. I recently aquired a lincoln square wave tig. I've been practicing for the last several months on aluminum sheet, and I have but one thing to say. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

                Its not easy. I can stick two peices together, but making it undetectable is frustrating to say the least. Leslie said it best when he used the phrase "mad skills." I've got respect for anyone who can weld thin aluminum successfully.

                Another option that does require riveting is weldless panel repair. Eastwood makes a kit.
                Travis
                '66 IIa 88

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                • SeriesShorty
                  2nd Gear
                  • Sep 2008
                  • 275

                  #9
                  If the holes aren't too big and it's really just a cover up to prevent the elements from getting in, what I've done before is press in some JB Weld and feather out the edges a bit. Then when it dries I sand it down and paint over it. A little ghetto but it worked for me which was great cause I am probably the worst welder this side of the Mississippi.
                  1966 IIa - ex-MOD, ex-FFR, ex-24v
                  1997 Discovery SE7 - I'm empty inside without her

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                  • SafeAirOne
                    Overdrive
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 3435

                    #10
                    Here's how I'd do it if I wanted it to be strong and look good/undetectable. I was hoping to come across a better diagram of an aluminum flush patch, but you should be able to get the idea using the one I found, linked below.
                    • If you have access below the patch area, you won't have to cut a slot in the doubler to feed it around from the top.
                    • Substitute an appropriate bonding agent in place of the flush rivets.
                    • Once the bonding agent is dry, fill the seam with caulking and paint.
                    • The "filler" or "plug" should be the same thickness as the aluminum you're trying to patch.
                    See:



                    EDIT: Just looking back at the original post--I'm not familiar with the location of the holes, but if you're just looking for an environmental barrier, why don't you just slap plastic plugs in em? The factory used them on every other hole when they made rovers left or right-hand drive interchangable.
                    --Mark

                    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

                    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
                    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

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                    • CliftonRover
                      3rd Gear
                      • Mar 2007
                      • 351

                      #11
                      just rivet in a piece of aluminum and then paint the whole area, you won't notice it.

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                      • crankin
                        5th Gear
                        • Jul 2008
                        • 696

                        #12
                        Clifton,
                        I like that idea, too. I actually picked up a sheet today at $2 a pound and have already started placing the pieces on the left side. Hopefully i'll finish it up tomorrow.


                        Birmabright Brotherhood

                        Take the vow, join the brotherhood!


                        Clint Rankin - 1972 SIII SWB

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