Clutch not clutching

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  • Jared
    Low Range
    • Nov 2006
    • 28

    Clutch not clutching

    '70 series IIA

    Started it up today and it looks like there's a clutch problem; doesn't seem like it wants to engage and feels very spongy. Otherwise, the truck is running fine, just can't move it anywhere.

    Any ideas on areas to start checking out? Go easy, I'm not experienced....explain it "like you would give directions to a foreigner."
  • BGGB
    Low Range
    • Jul 2008
    • 83

    #2
    first off i would check your fluids to see if there at the right lvl. other than that it would that you need either a new clutch master or a the slave by the bellhousing. and if a remember correctly there is also an ajustment on the slave that could be off. Just some places to get started....good luck

    Comment

    • LH Drive
      2nd Gear
      • Oct 2006
      • 253

      #3
      When was the last time the engine was running? My Series3 sat for over 3 years and all the seals had dried up along with a rusted stuck clutch disk. It rusted to the pressure plate and I had to drop the tranny and replace.

      Spongy clutch,,check the flex hose to see if its wet or leaking. I too had this problem and I would re-fill my clutch master and bleed the slave cylinder only to find it would leak again the next day.
      1972 NAS Series 88 SW

      Comment

      • Donnie
        2nd Gear
        • Apr 2007
        • 287

        #4
        Originally posted by Jared
        '70 series IIA

        Started it up today and it looks like there's a clutch problem; doesn't seem like it wants to engage and feels very spongy. Otherwise, the truck is running fine, just can't move it anywhere.

        Any ideas on areas to start checking out? Go easy, I'm not experienced....explain it "like you would give directions to a foreigner."
        Have you tried anything yet? if not, try bleeding the system at the slave cyl, if thr bleeder is frozen, like it won't turn, try opening the line that goes to it at the master cyl a couple of turns, if you R lucky it will self bleed as air risesto the top, sometimes...............use proper fitting spanners to avoid more hassle
        I spent most of my money on women & cars, the rest of it I just wasted.......

        Comment

        • Jeff Aronson
          Moderator
          • Oct 2006
          • 569

          #5
          Clutch

          Some questions - did you have a good clutch [plenty of travel, no slippage, little graunching of gears] before this problem? If so, then you probably don't have a worn out clutch plate but a hydraulic system.

          Can you shift between gears with the engine off? If not, have you checked the fluid level in the transmission? You'll need a 1/2" wrench; the plug is underneath the car on the left side of the transmission.

          If you can, then set the emergency brake [if it works], put the car in first gear, and start the car while holding down the clutch. Is the car trying to move forward? If so, then you probably have an adequate clutch and pressure plate but problematic hydraulics.

          First, make certain you have fluid in the clutch reservoir on the firewall. If you don't, pour some in. Then try the clutch and see if you have pressure. You may still need to bleed it if it went low for too long and took in air.

          In case you're not familiar with the slave cylinder, it should be on right hand site of the bell housing. You can access it through a rubber plug on the right side of the transmission tunnel, underneath the dash fascia. Remove the rubber plug and you'll see the top of the cylinder. There's a 7/16" bleeder screw on the top of it. Have someone push in on the clutch and then loosen the bleeder. Air bubbles and/or fluid should spurt out. Then tighten it. Only then let your helper release the clutch pedal. Repeat this a couple of times.

          There is an adjustment nut at the top of the rod that comes out of the slave cylinder. If it is not the correct distance, the clutch will not work properly. You'll still feel a strong pedal but your clutch action will not be satisfactory. It is easy to adjust from under the car.

          If you have fluid but no clutch pressure, and you've tried the slave cylinder, then you probably will need to replace and/or rebuild the master cylinder. It's actually attached to the reservoir. It's a tedious job because everything is awkward to get to, but not a particularly difficult job.

          Good luck in resolving this. Series owners have all been there before.

          Jeff
          Jeff Aronson
          Vinalhaven, ME 04863
          '66 Series II-A SW 88"
          '66 Series II-A HT 88"
          '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
          '80 Triumph Spitfire
          '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
          http://www.landroverwriter.com

          Comment

          • Jared
            Low Range
            • Nov 2006
            • 28

            #6
            Thanks Jeff, very comprehensive. This should give me a good start!

            Comment

            • Jeff Aronson
              Moderator
              • Oct 2006
              • 569

              #7
              Clutch

              You're welcome. "Spongy" means that it's very likely the problem is in the hydraulics.

              Jeff
              Jeff Aronson
              Vinalhaven, ME 04863
              '66 Series II-A SW 88"
              '66 Series II-A HT 88"
              '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
              '80 Triumph Spitfire
              '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
              http://www.landroverwriter.com

              Comment

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