2.5L Weber Carb Question (pics)....

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  • sven
    1st Gear
    • Dec 2006
    • 174

    #16
    Originally posted by NC Rover
    I checked this site and didn't see any 32/34 DMTL. I only saw 32/36. Did you say a brand new one was listed on the site? Any idea how much they run?
    You have to call them. They had 4 of them last time I spoke with them. We bought one a few months back for around 300-ish. These are universal 32/34 DMTL's with means they WONT be jetted properly for a 2.25 rover. You have to give them he correct jet #'s. I have these written down somewhere but cant find it at the moment. Might have been in the defender 90 Haynes manual??

    Terry is right, worst carb ever. I tried rebuilding it twice. What a fiddly carb to take apart and put back together. I absolutely hate this carb as far as rebuilds go. But when its setup properly, it is a nice running carb.

    They sell on ebay.uk too. But one guy wanted $130 for shipping
    99 D1
    73 Series III 88"
    95 RRC LWB

    Comment

    • sven
      1st Gear
      • Dec 2006
      • 174

      #17
      Originally posted by NC Rover
      EDIT: I took out each jet one by one from front to back and cleaned them. Also wrote down the number on each:

      Front to back:
      Jet 1 = 52
      Jet 2 = F-30
      Jet 3 = F-39
      Jet 4 = 6U

      Anyone know if these are in the correct order?
      F30 and F39 are emulsion tubes. The main jet and air correction jet are attached to the emulsion tubes (top and bottom). You also have a accelerator pump jet and ventri tubes to check. But those require full disassembly to get to. I suggest waiting for a manual before you attempt this.

      EDIT Found manual here complete with jet #'s: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rb%20pictures/
      99 D1
      73 Series III 88"
      95 RRC LWB

      Comment

      • NC Rover
        2nd Gear
        • Dec 2007
        • 288

        #18
        Originally posted by sven
        F30 and F39 are emulsion tubes. The main jet and air correction jet are attached to the emulsion tubes (top and bottom). You also have a accelerator pump jet and ventri tubes to check. But those require full disassembly to get to. I suggest waiting for a manual before you attempt this.

        EDIT Found manual here complete with jet #'s: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rb%20pictures/
        Any idea in which order they should go from front to back?

        I don't believe I am capable of disassembling/reassembling a carb (as of yet). I've taught myself to do a number of mechanical fixes by reading the net and asking questions. The rover has beena great learning process. But I feel I've exhausted my skills for resolving the sputtering and rich running rover.

        So far I have replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, cleaned carb jets, adjusted valves on a warm engine twice, replaced all intake/exhaust gaskets as well as any leaks in the exhaust system, fixed any vaccum leaks, and adjusted timing forward and back with no positive results.

        I can only guess the problem lies with the carb or the distributor.
        1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

        Comment

        • Andrew IIA
          3rd Gear
          • Feb 2008
          • 327

          #19
          The folks at Pierce are very helpful and rover knowledgeable (as you might expect). The would probably rebuild your carb if you sent it to them.

          I'm no sort of mechanic, but my 32/34 has been running like a charm for years in all sort of nasty conditions: love it !

          YMMV, Andrew
          Andrew
          '63 SIIA 88" SW

          http://hungrynaturalist.blogspot.com/

          Rover Pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/skunkal...7610584998247/

          Comment

          • sven
            1st Gear
            • Dec 2006
            • 174

            #20
            Originally posted by NC Rover
            Any idea in which order they should go from front to back?
            I dont remember. Its one of those things that I'd have to be in front of to remember (wasnt my truck).

            Originally posted by NC Rover
            I can only guess the problem lies with the carb or the distributor.
            Could be. But I'd check compression and better yet, do a leakdown test. You could have a burnt valve.
            99 D1
            73 Series III 88"
            95 RRC LWB

            Comment

            • NC Rover
              2nd Gear
              • Dec 2007
              • 288

              #21
              Originally posted by Andrew IIA
              The folks at Pierce are very helpful and rover knowledgeable (as you might expect). The would probably rebuild your carb if you sent it to them.

              I'm no sort of mechanic, but my 32/34 has been running like a charm for years in all sort of nasty conditions: love it !

              YMMV, Andrew
              I definitly have faith in it as it ran good at one point. I emailed them a day or so ago but have not heard back. Hopefully they can rebuild mine.
              1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

              Comment

              • Daurie
                2nd Gear
                • Nov 2007
                • 251

                #22
                Originally posted by NC Rover
                I meant to ask....do you guys know which jets go to which hole

                EDIT: I took out each jet one by one from front to back and cleaned them. Also wrote down the number on each:

                Front to back:
                Jet 1 = 52
                Jet 2 = F-30
                Jet 3 = F-39
                Jet 4 = 6U

                Anyone know if these are in the correct order?
                I would guess the 53 jet and the F30 emulsion tube go in the 32 mm side and the 60 jet and the F39 go in the 34 mm side. You could blow some carb cleaner through the holes where the jets go and determine which hole feeds which venturi. That is assuming you can visually determine which side is 32mm and which is 34mm. I've never seen this carb so I'm just throwing this out there..
                '73 SIII 88"
                Turner 8:1 Engine
                NRP Exhaust
                Roverdrive
                RM Parabolics
                OME Shocks
                Warn 8274
                Pangolin4X4 bumper

                Comment

                • NC Rover
                  2nd Gear
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 288

                  #23
                  I found a brand new 32/34 carb on ebay but I'm curious to see what pierce will charge to rebuild the carb.



                  I also found this site to be a bit helpful...especially at the very bottom of the page.

                  1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

                  Comment

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