Welding Birmabright

[JimCT]

Alloy

The LR panels are not just aluminum, but an alloy and as such you need the correct filler wire to weld the metal correctly.

[JimCT]

birmabright

Stolen from another site.... hope it helps.


Birmabright is a trade name of the former Birmetals Co. (Birmabright works in Clapgate Lane, Quinton, Birmingham, UK) for various types of lightweight sheet metal in an alloy of aluminum and magnesium. The BB2 is one example, of which equivalent specifications are British standard NS4, American 5251 and ISO designation A1 MG2.

Birmabright is best known as the material used in the body of the Land Rover and other classic British vehicles

So you will need to use a 5356 type filler alloy (approx 5%Mg) You are right to clean and prep with wire brush make sure all traces of paint, corrosion etc are removed. DONT preheat the sheet or you will run into difficulties.

Form an arc between the Tungsten and the sheet wait until a silvery pool appears then "dip" the wire into the pool and pull the rod away this should deposit a small amount of filler into the molten pool don't try and melt the rod under the arc and sweat it onto the surface you wont get any penetration.

[thixon]

Thanks JimCT,

the point was really to show the original poster what my results were trying to weld with a MIG on birma with what someone would commonly have in thier garage.

Thanks for the info though.

[rivertonrovers]

welding

I have a Lincoln precision tig 225. Here are some shots of me fixing that annoying hole that people seem to need to punch in a front fender. I clean the area first with a NEW scotch bright pad on my die grinder. Then use a STAINLESS STEEL wire brush. I cut a back up plate from a damaged beyond repair fender, tack it into place first then just weld it up. Make sure if you touch the tip of the electrode with aluminum you have to cut the electrode back and grind it flat. The biggest part of welding aluminum it CLEAN!!!

[thixon]

I have a Lincoln precision tig 225. Here are some shots of me fixing that annoying hole that people seem to need to punch in a front fender. I clean the area first with a NEW scotch bright pad on my die grinder. Then use a STAINLESS STEEL wire brush. I cut a back up plate from a damaged beyond repair fender, tack it into place first then just weld it up. Make sure if you touch the tip of the electrode with aluminum you have to cut the electrode back and grind it flat. The biggest part of welding aluminum it CLEAN!!!

Nice repair man, congrads! What type of rod did you use? Also, did you quench the work to cool it multiple times, or just wait for it to cool between welds? It doesnt look like warpage was an issue for you.

After screwing with alum wire in my MIG, I think I plan to stick to my TIG for type of thing. I have a few that I need to complete on the bed of my truck when I get to it.

I'd thought of using a backer as you did, but my holes are larger, so I planned to cut another peice to drop on top of the backer. I then planned to fill the gaps around that piece with the TIG. We'll see how it goes.

[rivertonrovers]

Nice repair man, congrads! What type of rod did you use? Also, did you quench the work to cool it multiple times, or just wait for it to cool between welds? It doesnt look like warpage was an issue for you.

After screwing with alum wire in my MIG, I think I plan to stick to my TIG for type of thing. I have a few that I need to complete on the bed of my truck when I get to it.

I'd thought of using a backer as you did, but my holes are larger, so I planned to cut another peice to drop on top of the backer. I then planned to fill the gaps around that piece with the TIG. We'll see how it goes.

I just stopped a time or 2 and let it cool on its own. I will look and see what the rod is that I used. I am not happy with it on the burmabright, it works great on regular aluminum. I have never had much luck with filling gaps on Burmabright, I have done it successfully with regular aluminum, it might be the rod I am using. Good luck and post pics.

Bill Riter

https://www.rivertonrovers.com

[JimCT]

TIG

You need a clean tungsten, but grind it to a ball tip, not flat. Use AC not DC current, and the proper filler wire and Argon gas. High freq on continuous also.

[thixon]

I just stopped a time or 2 and let it cool on its own. I will look and see what the rod is that I used. I am not happy with it on the burmabright, it works great on regular aluminum. I have never had much luck with filling gaps on Burmabright, I have done it successfully with regular aluminum, it might be the rod I am using. Good luck and post pics.

Bill Riter
www.rivertonrovers.com

Bill,

My experience on the birma is similar. I have been able to fill some gaps and holes, but not with regularity. More often than not, instead of filling a gap, I just widen it! My theory is that I just don't have it cleaned well enough. Its tough to get to all the gaps, nooks, and crannies in a 50 year old, beat up body panel. I have been hitting it with a wire wheel, and then wiping it down with whatever solvent I have handy (laquer thinner, acetone, etc.). I may try some alum cleaner from the welding store. In all probability, I'm just not spending enough time prepping it for the weld. Oh well, practice practice.

[thixon]

http://www.afsa.org.za/Portals/0/Documents/Welding%20corner/pocket-guide.pdf

I just found the link above. Great info for all interested in this topic.

[LaneRover]

Not sure if this helps but way back when my Mom had an MG TF and there was a hole in the oil pan. My Dad took it to someone to have it welded up. Basically the guy started to just 'chase' the hole around. In the end he had to put the oven on, put the drain pan in the oven and weld it there!

Not sure if heating things up a bit would help.

In the end my dad said next time the oil pan got a hole he would put a bolt and a bunch of sealant in it!!

Brent

[JimCT]

back up plate

You can clamp a piece of bronze or copper plate beneath the hole, the aluminum won't stick to the copper and it helps with the heat.

[rivertonrovers]

Bill,

My experience on the birma is similar. I have been able to fill some gaps and holes, but not with regularity. More often than not, instead of filling a gap, I just widen it! My theory is that I just don't have it cleaned well enough. Its tough to get to all the gaps, nooks, and crannies in a 50 year old, beat up body panel. I have been hitting it with a wire wheel, and then wiping it down with whatever solvent I have handy (laquer thinner, acetone, etc.). I may try some alum cleaner from the welding store. In all probability, I'm just not spending enough time prepping it for the weld. Oh well, practice practice.

Make sure you are using a stainless steel wire brush, and if you use it on anything but aluminum scrap it. I keep a whole set of stuff just for aluminum, cross contamination is NOT GOOD