Body parts powder coating

[usadventureracing]

Has anyone researched, had powder coating done on any body parts? I have been gathering new parts and was considering this instead of having them painted. Thanks in advance!!

[Terrys]

I wouldn't think it was too good an idea. Powder coating works well on firm, rigid componants, but not anything that has even a tiny bit of flex. Power coating is very brittle, as compared to modern paints.

[Bertha]

I powder coated all the axle components and everything that was black on the truck as well as the bulkhead. The body panels are too flimsy for powder coating. I would probably not do it again as it was too expensive and once it chips it is impossible to touch up nicely. A good eurothane paint and an epoxy primer is what I feel works best

[greenmeanie]

I think the owner of West Coast British did that to his 109. He seemed very pleased with it when the web page was made but it would be interesting to know how well it has held up since. He is, however, in a prety benign environment for vehicle finishes.

I can't see the advantage to powder coating on the panels as they are all pretty stright foward to spray if you've got the truck apart.

[Bertha]

I will keep you posted on how well my powdercoating holds up here in the Northeast on my axles and other underhood black components.

[chefplw]

years of harley experience

I seen soda cans powder coated as demo to show durability. you could f lex the can back and forth and the coating didnt chip or flake. I ve also see it hit with a hammer and no chipping. these were all done to show it off 15 years ago in the bike building area. I think it would cross over to over roading, but hey I m new at this ps have seen harley frames coated for years and not need to be touched up

[Eric W S]

Has anyone researched, had powder coating done on any body parts? I have been gathering new parts and was considering this instead of having them painted. Thanks in advance!!

I priced the entire job last year at Gorilla Powder Coat -$4,500 - 6,500. That was parts stripped by me to bare metal and brought to them. Add media blasting costs to the total. Gorilla is used extensively by Rad Rides by Troy (as seen on the Discovery Channel show "Rides". Troy is in Mokena?) and they have done several show cars to date.

Google Aircraft Powder Coating Chicago. There was a smaller operation catering to aircraft which I intended to investigate but never did. I'd rather have the coating done by someone catering to aircraft as they would be more experienced with an alloy like Birma.

FWIW, I decided that it would easier, and just as durable, to have a traditional paint job done. The main disadvantage with powder was that there are no minor issues. Scratches, dents and repairs are a whole new ball game when the entire truck, vs. one component, is coated.

[JimCT]

brush paint the beast....

What the heck are you thinking a LR is for? Maybe I am missing something but the 7 or so LR's I have had where all used to beat their way though the woods..... would you want to powder coat a sledge hammer or a slitting maul? Maybe I just don't get it.

[thixon]

JimCT,

I'm in your camp here except for the brush painting (i'd rather spray), but for what its worth, here goes. I'm sure there will be some differing opinions....

I just would'nt powder coat body panels. Its a b(Tch to fix, and never looks right after you try.

For me, a good single stage like dupont centari or ful thane (whatever brand you like) is a great option. For one, unless you really want it to look super glossy, and have someone go through the process of sanding/buffing/polishing, it has a pretty original look right out of the gun. In addition, you can do it youself with a little practice. If you try this, spend the bucks for a respirator (Iso's are bad news). Its also easier to fix/blend a scratch later if your into that sort of thing (its little more difficult for the do-it-yourselfer with base coat-clear coat). I look at scrapes as war wounds on a rover, but other don't and I understand that. Also, over time, the single stage will patina out nicely, and some of you on this board dig that. IF you want it to look nice then keep it waxed.

It would also be a heck of a lot cheaper to have a shop panel paint your truck, even if you were'nt willing to do some prepwork yourself. A guy I know locally would paint a rover for 2500 all day long, and it would be nice. Heck, my father once owned an AC Cobra (not a kit), and paid only a little over 6k to have it painted. I guess my point is, at the end of the day its a rover, not a car worth six figures. Don't throw your money up a monkeys butt on things that don't matter that much. You could buy a bunch of other cool stuff for the truck with 4 to 6 G's, instead of spending that on powdercoating.
My two cents.

[usadventureracing]

Thanks for the great info. I agree it is just a LR but I was thinking the powder coating would hold up better for off roading, thought it would be cheaper and easier to paint. Thanks

[Eric W S]

Pop onto the Chicago Land Rover Club and ask for recommendations. Most of the folks are in the burbs. George, the Webmaster, has two shops he referred me to in the north and west burbs. The one in Bensenville was the high buck shop but they deal mostly with high dollar restoration work. There was another that his son used and they did a very good yet affordable job.

My guy is in the city. He'd be a pain to travel to. But I gotta say, he does some really fine work. I mean he is basically giving me a 6k paint job for half the price. Primes 2 coats epoxy, seals, blocks 2 coats base and 2 clear. I really was hesitant about the base clear, but man it's dead on and its awesome.

Make sure you stick to a good paint. Dupont, HS, or PPG.

[I Leak Oil]

Our customers at work powdercoat large panels that flex all the time with no ill affects. You can get different powders and apply in different thickness ranges. A rover body would powdercoat just fine if prepped properly, just as a paint job would.

With that said, it is easier and cheaper to spray it.....
Jason T.

[thixon]

Eric,

Just to be clear (no pun intended),

I'm not against base coat/clear coat on a rover. I just think it would be too big a project for a first timer spraying his truck himself in the garage. If the shop of your choice wants to go that direction, let 'em do what their comfortable with.

I'm also not against a nice paint job on a rover. I like looking at trucks that others have made really nice, its just not my bag for my own. I'm the guy that drives the concours people nuts. If I could afford a Ferrari 250 GT, I'd drive it everyday, rain or shine!

[Eric W S]

Eric,

Just to be clear (no pun intended),

I'm not against base coat/clear coat on a rover. I just think it would be too big a project for a first timer spraying his truck himself in the garage. If the shop of your choice wants to go that direction, let 'em do what their comfortable with.

I'm also not against a nice paint job on a rover. I like looking at trucks that others have made really nice, its just not my bag for my own. I'm the guy that drives the concours people nuts. If I could afford a Ferrari 250 GT, I'd drive it everyday, rain or shine!

I think he is having the work done for him though. I agree that professional grade paint and materials REQUIRE the right equipment, knowledge and tools.

I read the OSHA warnings on one primer years ago and it mentioned that you could get Lung Cancer from using the wrong breathing apperatus. Scared me silly. I like painting just don't trust myself enough not to do something ignorant and deadly!

Power to ya! Use and enjoy what ya got. I live in the rust belt so I am forced to keep a fresh coat of paint or have to deal with rust/oxiadation. It sucks. I probably would let the paint fade and wear if not for my location.

[109 Pretender]

Another consideration not mentioned, is that in my experience powder coating doesn't have the UV inhibitors that quality urethanes will have. So it'll probably fade fast - which you might want... When I mounted my Wedco cans they faded in less than 3 months. I reshot them w/Imron - won't fade for around 30 years or so judging by all the other stuff I've painted in my lifetime.
Big + for the safety mentioned above. Imron & all other isocyanate based urethanes must be used very carefully. No respirator cartridge will work - you should only use a supplied air unit (expensive).
Touchup will be more than difficult w/powdercoat as mentioned.
I'd stick w/auto paint all things considered - including cost!