weird tabby lock washers vs split ring

[scott]

i'm about to put things back on the my newly rebuilt 2.25. i've a box of bolts, studs, washer and nuts. no idea where they all go.

was wondering about all the bend the tab type lock washers. they aren't readily available around here. what do you think of using split ring lock washers instead?

as i replace the old worn bolts and studs it would be nice to have a source that list size/pitch. does anyone know of a source of this info

[thixon]

Scott,

I can, have, and do use the splite ring type in stead. I would'nt think twice about it. I've done on numerous brit cars over the years with now issues. My vote is go for it, but I'm sure someone will chime in and teach us both a lesson!

As for the list, doesn't the green bible list a good many fastener sizes in each appropriate section in the exploded drawings?

[scott]

Scott,

... doesn't the green bible list a good many fastener sizes in each appropriate section in the exploded drawings?

my buddy has loaned me his, but they're blue not green. they show exploded views but no specs on the bolts and studs. for example i'm about to put the timing cover on. i can count the number of holes and i know it's a 5/16th but is it 18 or 20 or 24 count threads and what is the proper length. this same question for the oil pump, manifolds, oil filer tube, etc etc

[rwollschlager]

what i've heard about using the split rings instead of the locking tabs is that the split rings may warp under the heat and pressure. However, I think it comes down to personal preference and which one looks better in your opion because when i called our hosts about this they reccomended the locking tabs, and when i called DAP they said use the split rings because they dont carry the tabs. I currently run using the split rings, and i only had to re-tighten them after the first 20 mins of running the engine with the new manifold gasket on.

[109 Pretender]

Spring washers will work ok like Thixion said. Another option for nuts would be to use self-locking nuts (nylock or similar). However, I think most transmission/transfer case H/W on series trucks is British Whitworth so you will have to source them from specialists. RN used to have the metal locking plates avail. You also might consider a drop of blue locktite on the H/W where you use the spring washers. (Clean and dry the threads beforehand). Good luck!!

[109 Pretender]

PS - Don't use nylock nuts on exh. manifold! Jetnuts work great (All metal self-locking and designed for high heat). I am assuming your engine is SAE threads? My old 2.6 was a mix between SAE and Whitworth - now my 3.9 is all metric - wish vehicle was all one std.... no good for extended expedition type trips having to carry so many tools.

[Woodslug]

I was able to find most of the lock tabs needed for an engine but I used 3 different suppliers to get them. If you have access to a parts manual they list most of the bolts needed. I threw all mine in rust remover and then ordered the ones that were messed up. These guys have a lot of the more standard bolts.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Catalog.aspx?wt.srch=1&wt.mc_id=broadbolts

Ted