Front fender (wing bolts)

**SafeAirOne** · 01-26-2009, 04:26 PM

You won't find the wing-to-doorpost bolts at any hardware store. Once you get them out, you'll see what I mean. Removing the wing is a very simple task. There are no real tips or tricks to make it even easier. The biggest PITA is the wiring harness, and thats not too difficult.

**Bertha** · 01-26-2009, 05:23 PM

Au-veco carries a very suitable replacement- I will post the part numbers tonight when I get home.

**gudjeon** · 01-26-2009, 05:40 PM

What I have done with these to make life easier. Removal using lots of penetrating oil of your choice. Long and multiple socket extensions so you don't have to crawl underneath. Get out and old bolts and wings removed. Chase threads out of the retaining captive nuts with the same diameter in UNF thread. Buy bolts in the same UNF thread and goop on your favourite anti-sieze compound. Never have to worry about it again.

This is what I did to my ser1 rebuild along the way so as much as possible is easily replaced. If you are concerned about a nut and bolt originality, then it may not be the way to go. Some may say "but that will make the thread weaker by running a tap over the BSF". I would in turn reply, "its only holding down aluminium sheet metal. Why are you cranking them down so tight for in the first place?"

**SafeAirOne** · 01-27-2009, 02:15 AM

I wonder if my wing-to-doorpost anchors are different than others? My anchors in the doorpost are like this:

and NOT like this:

And the threads on the bolt itself are enormous like this:

So they're not too difficult to get out and there's not a whole lot of thread chasing to do on the anchor. Perhaps pre-SIII stuff is different...

Oh... and I just DID remember a tip to make the job easier--The wing has slots where the 4 bolts hold it to the doorpost, not holes. Don't kill yourself trying to get those 4 bolts out. they only need to be loose enough so that you can slide the wing upward and outward to detach it from the doorpost.

**Paul Rossmann** · 01-28-2009, 08:43 AM

... you also dont have to take the wing entirely off just to work on the master cylinder. I just undid mine from the bulkhead and "tied" that end of the wing out of the way enough to get in there and work. Still tight but eliminates having to fool with the wiring harness.

**thixon** · 01-29-2009, 10:28 AM

You can buy a suitable replacement at most hardware stores. The ones in my truck came from Lowe's. You will have better luck at an auto parts store. Names for them include J-nuts, U-nuts, blind nuts, or fender nuts.

The difference between the U and the J should be pretty clear to you (outer leg of J is shorter than U when looking at the profile).

If you're headed out to buy some at a big box hardware store, take one with you. The guy working the fastener isle probably isnt a pro. If you don't find one in the same thread as your original bolts, then just replace the bolts!

Good luck.

**lrdukdog** · 01-29-2009, 01:49 PM

"The guy working the fastener isle probably isnt a pro"
Sexist pig

The person hanging around the fastner isle usually knows less about fastners than anyone else in the store. At least around here you are on your own to search around and find it or not. I just go to a fastner place now.
Jim Wolf

**greenmeanie** · 01-29-2009, 02:52 PM

Heh,
The counter bloke at the local specialist Copper State Nut and Bolt has not been able to find me a single fastener I have ever asked for. They really try to not want my business. I'd love to see how they'd deal with a request for box of 1/4-28 X 1" grade 5 standard hex head. What do you mean you don't stock it?

At least the staff in my local Ace no to leave me alone to do my thing. On occasion they will ask me for advice as I am in there every other day for something. Anything specialised I find McMaster Carr provides.

Front fender (wing bolts)

Front fender (wing bolts)

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