Rewiring problems...

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  • mechman
    Low Range
    • Dec 2008
    • 87

    #16
    It's possible, though the ones I used to work on (Series III ex-MOD FFR 109's mostly) worked the way I described. If in doubt, bottom out a thin screwdriver against the plate, then have your buddy hit the brake and see which way the screwdriver moves.

    I've been out of the shop for a few years, so my memory might be a bit fuzzy, too. I used to replace those switches so often, the movements became automatic and I really didn't have to think about it. I had a mirror stuck to the lift post just for that purpose.

    Mech
    1960 SII 88 NADA HT w/OD and HEAT!!

    former pro Series mechanic

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    • superstator
      2nd Gear
      • Aug 2008
      • 298

      #17
      So, it does close the circuit when the button is pushed in. I actually managed to take the switch apart and clean the contacts inside, then superglue it back together. Works fine. So now all I've got left to worry about is the wiper motor.

      I ordered a new one from our hosts, which arrived today, but I've got a couple questions. First, I didn't order the drive gear, since I assumed that would come with the motor. Does that mean I need to replace the whole cable? My cable seems fine - I can move the wipers by hand and it slides back and forth easily enough, but if it's all one assembly... Also, any hints on mounting this thing in a truck designed for the early single wiper motor are appreciated.

      Second, more important, does anybody know how the five spade connectors are laid out? I'm assuming one is ground, one positive for each speed, and the other two are part of some kind of locating switch, but which is which? I wouldn't want to fry this thing too quickly...
      '67 109 NADA #413 - rebuilding w/ TDI & galvy chassis.

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