Stranded on Day 2

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  • bmohan55
    4th Gear
    • Sep 2008
    • 435

    #16
    Guess Saturday was the day for fuel problems, mine died also. After manually worrking the fuel pump I got it going again and it ran fine back home. Turns out the fuel line from the tank to the pump was falling apart and not only "bleeding" bits of rubber into the system but also sucking in air! Another new in-line filter, clean out the sediment bowl and I'm go until.....
    04 Disco, Gone-Disco died & so did mine
    '72 S3 88 - Leakey & Squeaky

    Comment

    • navydevildoc
      1st Gear
      • Feb 2009
      • 141

      #17
      Originally posted by greenmeanie
      What thread is on the fuel fitting. I bet you could retap it with a standard NPT tap and hose barb available from any loca hardware store.
      Dunno... the problem is that the threads that stripped are on the inside of the solex on top of the bowl... so I would have to find a way to re-thread those, then find some kind of fitting to go from that rather large hole to something that the fuel line can connect to.

      Let me look for a picture of what I am talking about... I'll post it in a second.
      2005 LR3
      1965 RHD Series IIA currently aka "The hope crusher"

      Comment

      • navydevildoc
        1st Gear
        • Feb 2009
        • 141

        #18
        Here is a picture with a red box around the threads I am talking about... where the fuel inlet "fitting" goes into the carb.
        2005 LR3
        1965 RHD Series IIA currently aka "The hope crusher"

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        • greenmeanie
          Overdrive
          • Oct 2006
          • 1358

          #19
          You may have to lose the banjo fitting and the hard plasdtic fuel line but by the eyeball gauge you should be able to tap that with a 1/4 NPT and use a male NPT to hose barb fitting. It'll be cheaper than a new carb.

          Comment

          • navydevildoc
            1st Gear
            • Feb 2009
            • 141

            #20
            Originally posted by greenmeanie
            You may have to lose the banjo fitting and the hard plasdtic fuel line but by the eyeball gauge you should be able to tap that with a 1/4 NPT and use a male NPT to hose barb fitting. It'll be cheaper than a new carb.
            Ahhh... I see what you are getting at. I might stop at Marshall's (huge hardware store here local) and see what they have.
            2005 LR3
            1965 RHD Series IIA currently aka "The hope crusher"

            Comment

            • scott
              Overdrive
              • Oct 2006
              • 1226

              #21
              doc i've got half a dozen of those carbs. might be able to hook you up. i use a weber 32/36 dgv and will never be mess'n with em.
              '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
              '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
              '76 Spitfire 1500
              '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

              Comment

              • navydevildoc
                1st Gear
                • Feb 2009
                • 141

                #22
                Originally posted by scott
                doc i've got half a dozen of those carbs. might be able to hook you up. i use a weber 32/36 dgv and will never be mess'n with em.
                Any particular reason you went with the DGV instead of a single barrel 34ICH?
                2005 LR3
                1965 RHD Series IIA currently aka "The hope crusher"

                Comment

                • scott
                  Overdrive
                  • Oct 2006
                  • 1226

                  #23
                  it was on the bugger when i bought it
                  '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
                  '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
                  '76 Spitfire 1500
                  '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

                  Comment

                  • navydevildoc
                    1st Gear
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 141

                    #24
                    OK... so I basically need to decide if I want to keep the Solex or jump to something else.

                    It would seem that the Solex carb has part availability problems, other than scrounging up used ones sitting in peoples garages/sheds/basements. But it seems to work as good as any other carb as long as you keep it clean, and I already have one.

                    The weber is new, but has a hefty price tag since I have to buy the inexplicably expensive adapter block to put underneath it. But on the other hand I was going to replace the carb eventually anyway as part of my restoration. So instead of doing it later I am doing it sooner.

                    The third option, which I am not really considering, is the Zenith. Even though they were stock it seems like people have problems with them. With the Weber available, it just doesn't seem like a smart choice.

                    Does that sound about right to everyone? Am I missing some big piece of the puzzle here?
                    2005 LR3
                    1965 RHD Series IIA currently aka "The hope crusher"

                    Comment

                    • scott
                      Overdrive
                      • Oct 2006
                      • 1226

                      #25
                      i like the weber 2brl. some say it doesn't work well on the 2.25 but my only problem has been vapor lock which i'm addressing with a carter electric pump, a fuel return line and a remotely located air filter. when running my truck hauls bauls compared to my budy's with his rochester single brl.

                      the adapter and carb are one time exspences, which i got lucky and didn't have cuz my truck came with the weber.

                      webers 2brls have been used by auto manufacters and modifiers on just about every make and model. i feel it been test and has passed.
                      '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
                      '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
                      '76 Spitfire 1500
                      '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

                      Comment

                      • Tim Smith
                        Overdrive
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 1504

                        #26
                        Originally posted by navydevildoc
                        Does that sound about right to everyone? Am I missing some big piece of the puzzle here?
                        Well you could always just get a Dodge and quit having all this fun.

                        I think you've got it though.

                        Comment

                        • bmohan55
                          4th Gear
                          • Sep 2008
                          • 435

                          #27
                          You are forgetting the rochester carb

                          04 Disco, Gone-Disco died & so did mine
                          '72 S3 88 - Leakey & Squeaky

                          Comment

                          • 59rover
                            Low Range
                            • Jan 2009
                            • 8

                            #28
                            The only other filter is the screen in the fuel pump. Sediment is a problem. My solex carb is on the work bench with that issue, prob. finish it tomorrow. jim

                            Comment

                            • Jeff Aronson
                              Moderator
                              • Oct 2006
                              • 569

                              #29
                              I've got to put a pitch in for the single barrel Weber. One of my II-A's came with the Weber at 111,000 miles. The car now has over 500,000 miles on it. In that time and 18 years of ownership, I've used a Weber carb exclusively.

                              In that mileage, I've changed out the carb twice and completed one repair - an accelerator pump. The carb that was swapped out was actually good enough to keep as a "spare."

                              The Weber can be a little lean if you're not careful with the timing and idle mixture, and I find that dry gas helps in winter because of occasional icing - but that's it. I can't remember the last time I had to adjust anything on it, and it's easy to access the filter.

                              My other II-A has its original Solex, which does seem to have a lot more rubber bits in it that require occasional replacement. The Solex seems to give that Rover more acceleration, but it does not achieve as good mileage as the one with the Weber. Solex gasket kits are still available, but when I broke a metal part, I had to dig out an old Solex to find the part.

                              The Zenith is an adequate replacement carb [there are plenty out there on a lot of Rovers] but I am a huge fan of the Weber and I recommend it highly.

                              Jeff
                              Jeff Aronson
                              Vinalhaven, ME 04863
                              '66 Series II-A SW 88"
                              '66 Series II-A HT 88"
                              '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
                              '80 Triumph Spitfire
                              '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
                              http://www.landroverwriter.com

                              Comment

                              • navydevildoc
                                1st Gear
                                • Feb 2009
                                • 141

                                #30
                                Well, I decided to go with the 32/36 DGV for now... we will see what happens. Should be here sometime this week along with the adapter block. If it doesn't work out, I will look at getting a single barrel Weber.
                                2005 LR3
                                1965 RHD Series IIA currently aka "The hope crusher"

                                Comment

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