Rear Drive Axle Removal

[navydevildoc]

OK, so I am trying to remove my rear drive/half shafts to see which one probably snapped this weekend.

Right hand (short) side came out real easy, a 5 minute job.

The left hand side, however, is proving much more difficult. I have the drive flange off, but in trying to extract the axle I was able to pull it out maybe 3/4 in, maybe 1 in, before it jammed on something. Now I can't pull it out any more.

Before I jump from muscle power to something mechanical to try and extract it, does anyone know if there is a reason why it might not want to come out? Jiggling back and forth doesn't seem to have any effect.

Any tips would be appreciated as always!

[JSBriggs]

The splines might be worn and then have twisted.

Put the drive flange back on and use a pry bar to pop it the rest of the way out.

-Jeff

[navydevildoc]

Nevermind. Some good old lever action took care of it. Put the drive flange back on with the castle bolt, and then used a prybar against the flange.

Popped right out. It was bound up on the section that snapped.

[StX_Rovers]

Hi Doc,

Was the short axle intact with all of the splines at the differential end? If so, you at least know that the long one is the one that broke. Most likely the problem is that when it broke, a small piece has somehow jammed itself in there. Try using the mass of the axle shaft and drive flange to go back and forth several times and that might break loose whatever is hanging it up.

Once you have the shaft out, and you will succeed, you will then want to remove the diff itself. The broken piece is likely jammed in the differential. Find a small piece of steel, maybe 1/4" square. You will use it to drive out the stub from the side that did not have the break. After you have done this a few times you will start looking for a Salisbury out of a later model 109.

Carefully clean out the housing and the differential of bits of broken metal. I advise you to replace both shafts so they are the same age. Still, keep the unbroken one for emergencies. Some time I will tell the tale of having to back my wife's 88 up the hill past the gigantic washout driving on the sloped side of the hill after breaking a rear half shaft in Christiansted. The front wheel would not pull it reliably as facing uphill they would spin and the car would slip towards the 5' deep hole. Turning around put enough load on the front wheels, which were now downhill, that they now gripped. Of course, steering was different. All part of the adventure.

While you are waiting for the new shafts you can complete the cleaning and reinstall the differential. I usually put in a new gasket between the differential and the housing so you might want to order one of those, which I now realize means that you will want to wait to dot eh final install until the parts arrive.

Anyway, this is one of those times where the BFH approach is appropriate.

[StX_Rovers]

Ahh, I see you figured it out. As you discovered, leave the drive flange on, although you will want to break loose the big castle nut before removal.

[navydevildoc]

I was under the impression that the 109 Salisbury was a no-go with the 88 because of how short the drive shaft would become, which would tear apart the u-joints.

Not so?

[leafsprung]

Salsbury is a simple install in an 88. You need to move the spring perches in on the axle casing and shorten the driveshaft by 2 inches. Alternatively you can also move the axle rearwards by two inches and retain the stock driveshaft length. I have 2 88s (with 3 salsburies between them) Good axle.

[Cosmic88]

???

best place(s) to find a Salisbury for use in an 88?

approximate cost?

[StX_Rovers]

best place(s) to find a Salisbury for use in an 88?

approximate cost?

Can't help you on the cost but all S3 109's had Salisbury's. In 1992 I saw a dead S3 109 under a tree on Ambergris Caye in Belize but that is probably not very useful info for you. Seriously, since you are in America, call Ike Goss at Pangolin 4x4. He can set you up. Any good driveshaft shop can shorten the driveshaft. The key thing is to keep the pinion angle the same. Under load, the flange face of the axle pinion and the output shaft of the transfer case want to be parallel.

[navydevildoc]

Well, now I am on to the differential. Removed both axles, popped out the broken piece with an aluminum rod, removed the drive shaft from the flange at the front of the diff.

Undid all the bolts around the diff casing, and have given the housing a few love taps to loosen it up. The diff seems to be loose from all the bolts, but something inside still seems to be hanging it up and keeping me from pulling it out.

So, time for another "How much force should I use" question. Pulling on the diff as hard as I can while upside down under the truck is not doing it. I can't get a prybar or chisel into the gap between the diff casing and the axle. I am contemplating rigging some Rube Goldberg contraption to try and pull the diff out via the drive shaft flange, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something before I went down that road.

Anyone have any tips for pulling the diff? The green bible of course just says "unbolt diff, remove diff" as if it should just slide out. I have already triple checked that I didn't miss any bolts.

[scott]

doc it does just slides out. did you get all of the axle pieces out?

[BackInA88]

Aren't there a couple dowels that locate the diff to the housing you have to side'wiggle the diff off them before you can lift it out?

Also be careful that thing is really heavy!

Steve

[navydevildoc]

Yeah, we made sure to remove all the axle bits. I can see right through from one side to the other when looking from the wheel hubs. Only thing visible is the center spider gear pin. Even if there was something there, it's not even coming out enough to be binding on an axle bit. With enough wiggling and brute force we might be able to produce a 1/4 in gap between the diff and the axle. But as soon as you let off on the pressure it goes back in.

We are now trying a come-along from the drive flange to a frame cross member. Even with that it's not coming out.

We are starting to think maybe one of the bearings is holding it in?

[JSBriggs]

Use the prybar again, in between the 3rd member case and the housing, working from 6/12 o'clock to 3/9 o'clock.

-Jeff

[navydevildoc]

Well,

With the comealong and some good old muscle power rocking it back and forth, it finally popped out.

My buddy and I are taking a lunch and beer break, then it's time to check out the diff and see if anything needs replacing.

Thanks everyone for the advice!!