patching bulkhead

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  • I Leak Oil
    Overdrive
    • Nov 2006
    • 1796

    #16
    Well if it's not going to be done even close to right then I vote for covering it with duct tape and squirting some undercoating over it!
    Scott, this is your truck and you are going to do what you want to it. You will also have to live with it. Do you want to be visiting this same problem in a few years or do you want to be done with it for a long time so you can move on to better rover projects?
    The bulkhead is important. The clutch and brake pedals mount to it, the doors mount to it, the floor boards mount to it, the door thresholds mount to it, the windshield frame mounts to it, the bonnet mounts to it, the fenders mount to it, brake lines and clutch lines might be mounted to it, electrical wiring and devices are mounted to it or run through it, the heater is probably mounted to it, the bulkhead itself is mounted directly to the frame. My unmolested, non-rusted original bulkhead flexes quite a bit under hard steering since the column and steering box mounting bracket are bolted directly to it. It's neither a spine or a pair of underwear, it is an important part of the vehicle. I guess if it were a pair of underwear you could either clean them or wear them as is, skid marks and all....
    Jason T.
    Last edited by I Leak Oil; 04-02-2009, 04:04 PM.
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

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    • thixon
      5th Gear
      • Jul 2007
      • 909

      #17
      Eric,
      Finding a replacement bulkhead is tough. Fixing one isnt that bad. Ike does great work, and deserves the money he gets. However, plenty of people complete their own high quality restos all the time. Scott can always go back and do it full on if he wishes later.

      Scott,
      I read your post about the metal being too thin. Stinks, but those are the breaks. IF it were me, I'd put the truck back together, get it driving, and run the damn thing. If the caulk/patch goes to H E double hockey sticks, then yank the bulkhead later and put a new footwell in it. Based on your posts, none of that is beyond your abilities, and yanking the bulkhead would take you an afternoon. Its a truck, not a model, so get it on the road.
      Travis
      '66 IIa 88

      Comment

      • Cosmic88
        Low Range
        • Feb 2009
        • 78

        #18
        another vote for getting back on the trail / road

        Not that my "low range" opinion probably means much to some folks in this case, but... as much fun as it would be to get back out there and drive around in your favorite auto, admit it or not, the proper repair and modification of any part of these Rovers can be (and usually is) just as rewarding as operating them.

        I think this is why most of us have Old Rovers... 'cause they require our constant input and care.

        I say fix it right (to your standards) and get back on the road.
        -Cosmo-
        '66 IIA 88" - Stock-ish Trail Rider

        '95 Disco R380 5 spd DD
        ARB winch bull bar
        Warn 8k
        Gulf States Grill
        OME HD 2" lift
        home made limb risers
        LR rack with too many Hellas
        on-and-on-and....

        Comment

        • Rineheitzgabot
          4th Gear
          • Jun 2008
          • 386

          #19
          Travis,

          Thanks for the support. After my post yesterday, a person might have thought that I suggested for Scott to tear heads off of puppies, and drink their blood with no mercy, while laughing.

          I was not trying to persudae Scott to caulk, only suggesting it was okay to caulk if it fits his needs and expectations.

          Scott,

          A 4" (4-inch, right?) gap that is sealed up with caulk, isn't going to hurt a damn thing on your car, as long as you are okay with it. It isn't going to hurt it structurally, and theres nobody out there that owns a Series, that has driven through a sizable amount of water, and not had it leak. If there is, then they need another hobby other than Land Rovers, because clearly, they spend all of their time making it waterproof.

          It's your truck. Live your life. If you have other things in your life, other than your Series, and don't want to take time away from, caulk it.

          Do as Thixon said and get after it later, when you tear it down again, and replace the whole foot well.

          Believe me, I know to some on here, what I am suggesting is borderline blasphemous, but there is some value in living one's life, and not just preparing for it. I know, I know, some might say that the living is done through the preparing (meaning that, fixing the bulkhead is part of the enjoyment), but, I think the very fact that Scott is doubting whether or not to use caulk, suggests that he prefers to be driving the thing, rather than working on it.

          Once you do all of that, call me, and we can talk about how to capture puppies for plan B.

          - Dr. Gary, PHD in Psychiatry (kidding) .
          "I can't believe I'm sitting here, completely surrounded by no beer!" -Onslow

          Comment

          • scott
            Overdrive
            • Oct 2006
            • 1226

            #20
            thanks all. still haven't decided. thinking of another patch. definately will be redoing this in a few years when the freak'n job doen't eat up 40 hrs/wk.

            mmm, puppy blood...i think i'll start with the wife's schnauzer.

            i am keeping my eyes open for a parts series. i wouldn't mind pulling a bulkhead, completely refurbishing it and swaping out my slow quick fix. i do love workin on it but driving it is better, much better

            whatever i do, watch for pics. i hope to be ready to paint by sunday.
            '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
            '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
            '76 Spitfire 1500
            '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

            Comment

            • Eric W S
              5th Gear
              • Dec 2006
              • 609

              #21
              Talk to Jim Coryat at the Land Rover Ranch. He is dialed in and may be able to point you to a local parts truck.

              Comment

              • scott
                Overdrive
                • Oct 2006
                • 1226

                #22
                well a couple of weeks has past and finally got back to it. started w/ a new welder's helment. a flash visor made all the difference. i slowly weld welds to welds 'till i bridged the gaps. now i have a 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick weld all the way across the footwell just above the top of the three verticlely running ribs. it's ugly but i'm claiming it. i'll hit with a grinder this week and maybe get to paint next weekend.
                '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
                '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
                '76 Spitfire 1500
                '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

                Comment

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