any parapolic spring install tips

[chefplw]

Waiting for the arrive from our host new parabolic springs and shocks was looking for any tips or words of wisedom. have green bible and a large can of PB Blaster thinking removal will be tougher

[Jim-ME]

Personally I'd do one side of the axle at a time. When I replaced the complete rear end I also bought new shackles and bolts in the event I had to cut/grind off the old ones. That was probably over kill but it did speed the process up and since I had rented garage bay/lift space time was important. Everything did come off using an impact wrench really easily but I did use 2 or 3 cans of PB Blaster. Since the kit appears to come with U bolts you should be OK in that arena. With the Rocky Mountain springs I have, the spring plate that the U bolts go thru had to have the holes enlarged for the supplied U Bolts. I have no history with the RN springs but you may want to have a drill handy. The only other thing you might want to consider is replacing the frame bushings while you are there. I didn't while I had the springs off the frame and am beginning to regret it. Good luck,
Jim

[jp-]

I start by supporting the frame on jackstands (one axle at a time), remove all the old hardware (yes, this is going to be the hard part). Then, when ready to go back on, I loosely bolt the springs to the axle casing (shorter springs go up front)(tires are also removed before this). Then working on a smooth concrete floor, I slide the springs and axle under the truck and bolt the front of the springs first. Once both of the front spring eyes are captured in the frame horns, I mount the shackles through the frame (using new bushing and shackles of course). Next, I use a floor jack to lift the axle high enough to mount the rear spring eye into the shackles. Voila! Then go back and torque the U-bolts. But remember not to fully torque the shackles and eye bolts until the full vehicle weight is on the springs (I usually settle my springs by jumping on the bumper a few times once the axle is back on the tires and the vehicle is on the ground). It usually only takes a few hours, less with help.

[scott]

i found and only on the front that besides a nut on the bolt the inside shackle is threaded. after removing the nut and hammering and prying and cursing i thought i'd try turning the bolt and that's when i found out about the threaded inside shackle

[jac04]

As stated above, don't torque the shackle hardware until the vehicle weight is supported by the springs. However, before torqueing the U-bolts, I suggest snugging up on the shackle hardware to ensure that the springs are where they need to be.

Also inspect the spring plates - I have seen some that have been very distorted. Now is also a good time to clean them & hit them with a coat of paint.

Now my comments specific to the RN parabolics:
I am in the process of fitting them now.

The U-bolts that come with them are junk IMO. They are much smaller than the old original Land Rover hardware. They are supposed to be 7/16", but they measure smaller diameter. I went as far as returing the U-bolts that came with the kit and ordering a set of good U-bolts from Rocky Mountain. Money well spent. I did not have to enlarge the holes on my spring plates to fit the RM U-bolts, but mine is a late Series 3.

Inspect the springs before trying to install them. The 'wrap around' on the ends of the springs are not really centered (I had this issue when installing Rocky Mtn paras on my last Rover as well). Test fit them and change their position as required to keep the springs from hitting the chassis.

[chefplw]

1 more question

thanks everyone for the tips. parts arrived today going to tackle the job this weekend. Just one more question A couple of you said to back on grounds so springs are load before torquing . I looked in bible and dont see any specific torque value. do you mean just tighten when loaded. just want to get it right the first time

[luckyjoe]

chefplw,

Is this install on your '65 exMoD 109? If so, you have two spring height options on your frame - upper or lower spring mounts. The lower are what the standard military springs are mounted through, using military extended shackles at the rear of each spring. The upper holes equate to civillian-spec and should be used with standard shackles.

It's sort of a do-it-and-see, to find out if you'll run into front prop shaft clearance issues (from the parabolics extra height in the lower military spring mounts).

Let us know how it goes.

Regards,

[jac04]

My S3 Green Bible shows the U-bolt torque as 75 ft-lbs in two spots and 58 ft-lbs in another (??). Based on 7/16" U-bolts and dry threads, I would go with 75 ft-lbs. The shackle bolts and nuts are listed as 60 to 70 ft-lbs.

[chefplw]

I'm a little confused

So after forgeting to order all the right new hardware to go with the kit( maybe there should be a note in catalog or part # which includes all the nuts and bolts- especially for us newbies) I finally have started the job. got one side all the way removed and start to mount new spring. here where Im confused my is ex mod there are two sets of holes to attach the front of the rear if I go with the top which seems to be where they want to be. do I change the angle of the rear shackle or did I need to order cilvian ones. I guess Im worry about changing the angle and screwing up the geometry.hey Luckyjoe Isaw your post and am still confused. it sound like you suggest civi shackles.

[SeriesShorty]

I'll give this a little bump as I've got the same questions that chef has. I too have an ex-MoD and am considering parabolics when I replace my springs. This information about the civvi shackles is something I would love to know as well.